joek
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Post by joek on Apr 3, 2017 9:10:36 GMT -8
Hi All, Looking for the modern recommendations for installing the roof vent. Doing repairs now, after the housing on my Fantastic Fan cracked, water seeped through the crack and ruined the ceiling panel. When I did the install originally, I installed it with Sikaflax 1a. I'm not sure why I shouldn't just go back with the Sikaflex 1a as it didn't seem to be the cause of the failure, and getting the fan removed and all of the Sikaflex removed was fairly painless. I used my Fein multi-tool to cut the sealant underneath the flange, then a pinstriping removal tool to grind off the remaining sealant. So maybe I should use what I did before, but also wanted to get some experienced advice on what others have used with great results. Thanks, Joe |
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mrmarty51
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Post by mrmarty51 on Apr 3, 2017 11:45:03 GMT -8
I`ll be watching this thread.
I have putty and was going to use it for the sealer, We shall now see.
I know it will NOT be silicone. LOL
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Apr 3, 2017 18:30:28 GMT -8
I use a double layer of 1" putty tape with a vent crown and haven't had any issues.
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mrmarty51
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Post by mrmarty51 on Apr 3, 2017 19:07:41 GMT -8
I just went to the book. I had read it before and that was where I got the idea of using putty. joek You too can have the book. It will take a lot of the Qz out of the rebuild. Click the link below. link |
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Post by vikx on Apr 3, 2017 19:54:49 GMT -8
I use putty or the included Fantastic seal under the flange. My sealant of choice after it is screwed down is Dicor self leveling lap sealant. It takes a full caulk tube to go round the flange and over each screw head. I usually get 3/4 turns around before I run out...
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mrmarty51
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Post by mrmarty51 on Apr 3, 2017 22:40:28 GMT -8
I use putty or the included Fantastic seal under the flange. My sealant of choice after it is screwed down is Dicor self leveling lap sealant. It takes a full caulk tube to go round the flange and over each screw head. I usually get 3/4 turns around before I run out... I also seen he Dicor sealant in your book and was thinking I had better see if Our lumber or hardware stores here has that. if not I will get some ordered immediately. On the riser shim for the top vent, do you put that on the top of the roofing and under the top vent or is it between the roofing and the top vents framing ? |
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joek
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Post by joek on Apr 4, 2017 5:50:56 GMT -8
Shim it up between the aluminum roofing the roof framing, so that the vent isn't in a valley.
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mrmarty51
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Post by mrmarty51 on Apr 4, 2017 7:15:56 GMT -8
Thank You JoeK, thats a big help. i`m not quite there yet but I most likely will be tomorrow.
I have plenty of 3/8ths scrap laying around or should a person go 1/2".
I guess the more the better to a point. i have 1/2" too.
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joek
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Post by joek on Apr 4, 2017 8:36:28 GMT -8
How thick you go will depend on how much lift you need. If you push material in there too hard, you'll start bending your ceiling down, so find the balance. You just don't want to the vent lower than the surround area, so that water could pond there. But it doesn't need bulging up either.
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Post by vikx on Apr 4, 2017 19:42:10 GMT -8
Yes, the shim goes under the metal and on top of the wood framing. I try for 3/4" lift, but sometimes the roof metal won't take that much. You can start with 1/4" shims, then add until the roof seems snug. I think you can get more lift when the roof is loose than trying to add after the fact (or if the roof wasn't removed/floated)
Most of my roofs come off, so it's not an issue.
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mrmarty51
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Post by mrmarty51 on Apr 4, 2017 19:57:31 GMT -8
Thank You JoeK and vikx.
That is a big help.
I was eventually going to post a thread for the information but it seems that Joe beat me to it, LOL
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cowcharge
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Post by cowcharge on Apr 10, 2017 13:04:20 GMT -8
I used plain ol' putty tape for my vents. Five years of rain and snow so far without a drop of water...
However one thing I did which I haven't seen anyone else do is, before I put in the vents, I used heavy-duty exterior aluminum repair tape over the entire vent "chimney" hole from top to bottom, overlapping the roof skin out past where the putty tape ends, and overlapping the ceiling a bit so that it can still be hidden with the lower vent trim. Now any water that gets inside the vent in any way, whether it sneaks under the putty tape or through a cracked lid, will run down the taped surface and drip on the floor. It can't get into the roof framing or insulation (except where the screws penetrate, which I also sealed) or the ceiling paneling, and I will know it's leaking as soon as it happens the first time. And if it decides to leak while I'm on the road I don't have to panic or get up on the roof in the rain, all I have to do is wipe the floor.
I did that for the fridge vent, the stink pipe vents, the water heater, city water fill, exterior 120v outlet, and every window I've removed so far. Ain't puttin' up with no more soggy wood.
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joek
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Post by joek on Apr 10, 2017 21:23:10 GMT -8
Interesting to note that my new Fantastic fan has a much thicker body. It's about twice as thick as the first one I had, and takes about half as many screws.
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