mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Dec 4, 2013 18:22:23 GMT -8
Jodybitzz The trailer in your avatar doesn't look that bad are you planning on replacing all of the skin? None of my business just being nosey. Never mind I just got a look at your pictures in another post and what wasn't bad probably is now. You will have a beautiful 1500 when you finish if you reskin it. I pulled the skin off my 1500 and ironed out most of the dents but I am cheap and didn't wish to spend the coin for new as I figure as it gets used it will just get more bangs in it. Are you going to put the interior back original or update it to suit you. I am making major changes to the interior of my 68 1500, we are designing it to make the wife and I as comfortable as possible in that small space. bigbill, the picture made her look a lot nicer than she was! Like I said, once we got into her there was really nothing we could save. I am going to do some updates, such as make a larger bed. The one in there was 48inches, not a true full size. So I will extend the bed framing to 53 inches. In order to do this we will shift the cabinets and counter tops down 6 inches. So that also means the door will be moved down. I am making the dinette area smaller, cutting those benches down to about 24 inches in length. I have the original oven and stove that will be put back in. I also will be putting in a fridge and microwave as well as a roof top AC unit. When I bought her the interior was painted which was very cute. However, after seeing many pictures and some campers in person, I'm going to go with stained birch (or something comparable). Do you have a link to your pictures? If you are going with birch you will want to finish it with Shellac. You can buy it at Home Depot or just abouut any paint store. Zinsser's Bull's Eye Shellac. Comes in clear or amber. Shellac takes a little getting used to. Temperature is important. Thinning properly is important. I have videos that show you how to deal with Shellac on my website. The latest and most accurate are the Restoring The Shasta series. www.cannedhamtrailers.com/ |
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jodybitzz
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1968 Shasta 1500
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Post by jodybitzz on Dec 4, 2013 18:59:41 GMT -8
Thank you Mobiltec. We have already stalked your website and have watched several videos  . Thank you for sharing your knowledge! |
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Dec 4, 2013 22:00:52 GMT -8
You're welcome! Keep watching... I'm constantly learning something new to share.
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CorvettCrzy
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'58 Corvette, '64 Franklin
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Post by CorvettCrzy on Feb 11, 2014 20:54:56 GMT -8
Can anyone tell me if there is an engineering reason for having multiple seams on a roof other than a limitation of material (48" roll) size.
My Corvette has a seam joining the front and back top panels (with 4" break) and seams joining 3 flat panels
in between In other words, if I can find a metal shop that can give me a one piece roof (with break lines on the ends) or attach a single piece flat roof to my current ends, will it be a sound roof?
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Post by schweetcruisers on Feb 11, 2014 20:57:29 GMT -8
I replaced my multiple piece roof with a one piece, break lines are a small price to pay for a leak free roof!
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CorvettCrzy
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Post by CorvettCrzy on Feb 12, 2014 22:14:10 GMT -8
schweetcruisers
Do you mean that if it's one piece on top it'll form it's own break lines? Or that you chose a
one piece roof even though it wouldn't have the original break lines?
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Post by schweetcruisers on Feb 13, 2014 7:24:03 GMT -8
Mine never had break lines on the roof, so that wasn't an issues for me. In talking to the RV sheet metal shop when I had mine done, it is not possible to do break lines on a one piece roof. Mine came in a roll 8.5 ft wide x 16ft long, not heavy just awkward, and hard to manhandle into a press break. IMHO losing the break line detail on the roof is a small price to pay for a leak free roof. Here is link to my blog when I did my roof- schweetcruisers.blogspot.com/2012/11/give-me-some-skin.html |
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Post by vikx on Feb 14, 2014 20:53:31 GMT -8
Be very careful with a roof top air conditioner. They weigh at least 100 pounds and need special roof framing for support. These little trailers weren't expected to have roof air...
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Feb 20, 2014 18:25:58 GMT -8
Can anyone tell me if there is an engineering reason for having multiple seams on a roof other than a limitation of material (48" roll) size. My Corvette has a seam joining the front and back top panels (with 4" break) and seams joining 3 flat panels in between In other words, if I can find a metal shop that can give me a one piece roof (with break lines on the ends) or attach a single piece flat roof to my current ends, will it be a sound roof? The MAIN reason is because you need an S Lock or Pittsburg Lock in the front and in the back for the front and rear panels to go on. You cant get that on a seamless roof because the material is too long to run through the machine that makes the locks. So you would have to start your roof at the front tongue A frame and have it go all the way back to the bumper. That would buckle and look horrible. Only other way is to use Lap Joints and they stopped using those in the very early 50s.
Seams are very seldom the reason for a leak unless the seam itself has been damaged by something falling on it and placing a big dent in the roof at one of the seams.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Feb 20, 2014 18:34:19 GMT -8
I made a bunch of videos at Hemet Valley RV showing how all this stuff is made. You won't see a roof made there but you will see the machines that make the locks and then you will understand why no one uses a seamless roof except Shweet!  |
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Post by schweetcruisers on Feb 20, 2014 19:12:20 GMT -8
When I pulled my original trailer apart I saw the evidence that the seams did in fact leak at one time hence the reason the PO coated every one of them with roofing tar. In states that actually get rain and snow(so not California or Arizona) the locked seams will leak. Also if you live in a state that gets hail, the dings will compromise the lock seam. When I talked to the RV sheet metal company that made mine, and I asked about the differences and cost between the two types, they stresses theirs would never leak, they did say a seamed roof will eventually leak, it is inevitable. The seamed roof was double the cost of the seamless roof, so they were basically going to make less money by selling a superior product. Tylerbes who is not on this forum but was on the old site also did a one piece roof and I know a couple of other people did too, I just can't remember who!
While yes you can't get brake lines in a seamless roof and it is impossible to get a Pittsburgh lock on the ends you can hand form a S lock seam and seal it, like I did, you don't have to have lap seam. One of the biggest advantages with the one piece roof is you can eliminate the goofy panels on each side of the rear window(which also always leak).
I guess if your trying to decide between the two types, what I say and what Mobiltec says shouldn't matter, we will probably always have different opinions on this, but you should ask your self this, If locked seam roofs are soooooo great why does everyone have to replace them?
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Feb 20, 2014 19:50:48 GMT -8
It's true that I live in a much drier climate and so do my trailers. So between snow, hail and a lot more rain it's very possible for the seams to leak. As I said before if the seams are damaged which is what all those things do. So Schweet and I can actually agree depending on where your trailer is going to live. I can see pros and cons to both Schweet and your input is important.
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pasoshasta
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1966 Shasta AstroFlyte
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1966 Shasta AstroFlyte
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Post by pasoshasta on Feb 24, 2014 17:22:42 GMT -8
Has anyone used this company for Skin? www.all-rite.com/contact_us.phpThey have locations in GA and CA. Their CA location is closer to me than Hemet Valley, so I wanted to check them out. |
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Post by vikx on Feb 26, 2014 22:40:22 GMT -8
All-Rite is Spendy...
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Flat-Tire
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Post by Flat-Tire on Feb 28, 2014 18:29:06 GMT -8
you can hand form a S lock seam and seal it, like I did, you don't have to have lap seam. Mr. schweetcruisers: Please offer details on how you went about forming the S-locks. Thanks Edit: I think I located the answer; HVAC folding tool. Cool. |
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. Thank you for sharing your knowledge! 
