htchevyii
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1966 Aristocrat Lo-Liner
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Post by htchevyii on Feb 17, 2017 18:46:17 GMT -8
I know that there have been some debates about body filler holding up on the thin aluminum bodies of our trailers. I bought some SEM Bumper Bite. It's is made for flexible plastic bumpers, but states that it can be used on aluminum. I'm thinking if it can handle the flexing of a plastic bumper that the trailer skin shouldn't be an issue. I applied some tonight, it spreads nice and is easy to sand. If it all cracks and falls off, I'll report back! www.semproducts.com/repair-fillers-glazes/bumper-bitetm-flexible-glaze
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Post by vikx on Feb 18, 2017 21:27:33 GMT -8
Thanks!
I think we all need a little filler from time to time. I've done tiny areas with JB weld and it seems to be holding. We had a disaster with our Red Dale Compact, a piece of metal pierced the new skin just a week after paint. (heavy WIND) It was going to the rally in less than a week, so we used Bondo. 2 years later, you still can't see where the hole was...
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nccamper
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1962 Forester- 1956 Shasta
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Post by nccamper on Feb 19, 2017 5:47:42 GMT -8
I agree with vikx, I think a patch here and there should be fine. I haven't tried Bumper Bite.
As a rule I believe using a lot of filler to make beat-up skin look new is asking for trouble. As I've said before, filler wasn't made to flex in a 60mph highway wind and aluminum will flex. So a lot depends on the use. Parked at a seasonal site, even globs of filler may be just fine. On the open road, bouncing along, smaller areas are the most I'd try to fill.
A few dings and dents add character.
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htchevyii
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1966 Aristocrat Lo-Liner
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Post by htchevyii on Feb 19, 2017 14:58:40 GMT -8
I'm just filling the most obvious dings. I straightened all that I could from the backside. I'm mostly concerned with by the entry door, that's where the most dings were and they are right where you see them.
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WhitneyK
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'67 Shasta Compact
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Post by WhitneyK on Feb 20, 2017 5:20:35 GMT -8
What about using a filler to repair small holes in a roof metal? Possibly caused from a PO repair? Here's what I've got
The large holes are for the lights. It's the tiny holes caused by ? and the extra screw holes the PO added for "reinforcement".
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Feb 20, 2017 5:56:11 GMT -8
What about using a filler to repair small holes in a roof metal? Possibly caused from a PO repair? Here's what I've got.
The large holes are for the lights. It's the tiny holes caused by ? and the extra screw holes the PO added for "reinforcement".So the large holes will once again be covered by lights? IMO, filling a 1" hole would be impossible. Reinstalling the lights may be an option if it's solid behind them. Did the small holes screw into solid framing? If yes, and the camper is covered most of the time, you may get by for a time with putty of gutter seal in the hole followed by new screws. I wouldn't use filler (Bondo) on a roof. Have somebody tow while you're in the back seat watching the roof undulate in the 60 MPH wind. Think of a mini wave effect reacting to Bondo. Now the bitter pill...if the framing isn't solid the roof needs to come off so repairs can be made. If it was me, and money was not a major issue, I'd replace the roof. Holes all over a roof are asking for trouble long-term. Hemet Valley and CHcampers sell replacement skin. There are other sources scattered here and there. It's about $450 plus shipping.
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htchevyii
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Post by htchevyii on Feb 20, 2017 8:17:52 GMT -8
I would feel better using epoxy for holes. That first photo looks like corrosion?
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WhitneyK
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Post by WhitneyK on Feb 20, 2017 19:26:49 GMT -8
Actually, I went ahead and pulled the top and back off of it today since I was off (Fed Holiday you know)
Not sure what I'm gonna do yet. The very top was galvanized metal. I agree though, wouldn't want to risk leaks with "patches" on known holes.
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