mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Feb 9, 2017 7:26:11 GMT -8
People have been asking to see how a seamed metal skin roof was made so they could understand why the seams are not supposed to leak. Here it is... youtu.be/J_Iw4rs7s7s |
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mrmarty51
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Post by mrmarty51 on Feb 9, 2017 8:40:21 GMT -8
Thank You mobiltec.
Your videos are always top notch.
That takes out a lot of questions about how they do that. I know My fingers would look like they been run through a shredder if I was in their shop. Well, for a week or two anyway. LOL
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Dad Rambles
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Post by Dad Rambles on Feb 9, 2017 10:02:44 GMT -8
Yep. I like your videos in general, but this one is over the top! Glad to see this. Very well put together Larry.
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62forester
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Post by 62forester on Feb 17, 2017 12:53:24 GMT -8
So if I was going to replace the whole roof section, from front bottom to back bottom, could I use that seam and not an s lock seam. And then just make my cuts for the windows and vents? Seems as if I could just do s locks on the side pieces.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Feb 17, 2017 14:55:19 GMT -8
So if I was going to replace the whole roof section, from front bottom to back bottom, could I use that seam and not an s lock seam. And then just make my cuts for the windows and vents? Seems as if I could just do s locks on the side pieces. YOu can do that and I know people who have BUT.... You are more apt to have buckling which is very hard to get rid of when you have such a big piece to deal with. Better to do it the conventional way... I actually have a video of one of my viewers trailers. He did it with an Aljo and yep.. He had to bring it to me to get rid of the buckles. Also keep in mind that metal SHOULD be applied in the warmest weather possible. 80 degrees is optimal for metal installation. That's because aluminum expands with heat and shrinks when it cools down. |
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62forester
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Post by 62forester on Feb 17, 2017 14:58:53 GMT -8
That makes sense. So just do the upper roof section with the acme seam, with s locks at each end to do the last few pieces on each end?
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Feb 17, 2017 15:11:48 GMT -8
That makes sense. So just do the upper roof section with the acme seam, with s locks at each end to do the last few pieces on each end? Exactly. My 57 Westerner series includes roof install. |
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62forester
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Post by 62forester on Feb 17, 2017 17:56:37 GMT -8
I just skimmed through the videos on this. Definitely worth the time to watch too. Is it not recommended to put any type of sealer on the fold edges?
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Feb 17, 2017 18:18:20 GMT -8
I just skimmed through the videos on this. Definitely worth the time to watch too. Is it not recommended to put any type of sealer on the fold edges? Shasta used to do it. I've never tried it. They used to put 1/16 inch thick putty tape all along the fold over. I have to say that the curbing has looked pretty good actually in the trailers that I have taken apart that had the putty tape in the fold over. You would have to find 1/16 inch thick putty tape to do it though. Maybe if you took a rolling pin to 1/8 inch and then sliced it up into 1/2 inch strips? In my Deville series I painted the fold over seam with "Plast-T-Coat"... Don't know if it has had any affect... No complaints so far though... A good job of putty tape under the J rail should do it. To make sure, some people apply OSI clear gutter seal where the J rail meets the roof. |
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62forester
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Post by 62forester on Feb 17, 2017 18:30:35 GMT -8
I plan to go polished aluminum siding on the Forester, so Plas-T-Coat may not be an option for me. I may just have to find some real thin putty tape.
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