roadtripper
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Post by roadtripper on Jan 13, 2017 20:18:53 GMT -8
I've decided, for a half dozen reasons, to go with new roof skin. The majority of existing is smooth, and I'm almost 8'wide, so I'll go with a 8' x continuous heavy alu roll. My layout requires no folded seam at either end. I've watched the proper videos on how to, but was wondering a couple things. Larry cuts a little "v" every 2 or 3 inches on the curve. On mine, where the radius front and rear is pretty steep, it looks like the factory used a crimp tool there with no cuts. Maybe Larry's method is smoother though. Also, I thought I caught a post somewhere where vikx sometimes puts thin putty tape under the fold as well as under the trim. Or did I just imagine that? Finally, when I took off all the existing upper trim today, seems in many places the existing putty tape (55 years old) hadn't really stuck that well to the paint side. Wouldn't it be better to lightly sand first? Thanks
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Post by vikx on Jan 13, 2017 21:20:08 GMT -8
I also notch my roof bend as needed to follow the curves. I haven't used putty tape under the fold, as it makes the edge too bulky for me. I always seal all divets and gaps with OSI gutter seal, usually twice before attaching the edge trim.
You could sand the paint under the edge trim, but new putty should be plenty sticky without that. That's a good thing to keep in mind when buying; make sure the putty is not "old" and dry...
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mrmarty51
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Post by mrmarty51 on Jan 13, 2017 21:38:27 GMT -8
Something I am wondering about when using a solid roll like that is fastening it to the rafters. does a person not fasten it to the rafters and fasten just along the edges with nails or are the rubber washered sheet metal screws used ? A trailer house that I owned had a rumbling roof, but only when the wind would blow LOL, the manufacturer came out and installed rumbler screws with big washers and butyl under each washer. I know there`d be a video on it but I havent made it that far along to want to check it out.
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roadtripper
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Post by roadtripper on Jan 14, 2017 7:24:04 GMT -8
Thanks for input. I'm thinking it will be just like Larry's video of the 57 re roof...only a little wider. The existing is in about 4 pieces, but the seams look permanent, not like those on the siding. And the crank up vent right in the middle should give it some stability, dont you think? But if it flaps, we'll see.
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Ten
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Post by Ten on Jan 14, 2017 9:14:44 GMT -8
If it is fitted properly and attached securely along the edges, along with the support of the vent, it should be fine. There is also the curve over the ends which adds strength to the structure. There has to be some flex in the overall unit to allow for the constantly changing stresses of towing.
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windborn
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Post by windborn on Jan 14, 2017 16:51:47 GMT -8
Something I am wondering about when using a solid roll like that is fastening it to the rafters. does a person not fasten it to the rafters and fasten just along the edges with nails or are the rubber washered sheet metal screws used ? A trailer house that I owned had a rumbling roof, but only when the wind would blow LOL, the manufacturer came out and installed rumbler screws with big washers and butyl under each washer. I know there`d be a video on it but I havent made it that far along to want to check it out. I could be wrong about this, but I assume roofs aren't fastened to the rafters to prevent leakage? I know mine wasn't screwed along the factory seams (and I didn't have any locks at the ends) which is why I ended up going with one continuous piece. I haven't experienced any flapping yet!
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Jan 14, 2017 18:25:59 GMT -8
The roof skin is only fastened down on top where vents are. Other than that there are no roof skin fasteners beyond the sides... The reason for the V notches is to immulate what the factory does using a "Shrinker/Stretcher". It's a tool that when clamped down on soft metal it either expands/stretches or contracts/shrinks the metal. There are two tools to a set. A shrinker and a stretcher. You can actually buy them for around $400 or so a set. I think I saw them as cheap as $250 once. That was probably at HF. Being that I don't have them I go for the V notch.
If you don't do one or the other you'll have lots of wrinkled up skin protruding and overlapping itself all the way around the radius. Probably some buckling as a result too.
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mrmarty51
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Post by mrmarty51 on Jan 14, 2017 19:51:28 GMT -8
@ten windborn mobiltec Thank you so much for the replies and answers. The roof on the homemade camper I am working on was the same as the siding. it has a Pittsburgh joint at the seams, every two foot. the pittsburgh joint has a sort of a flange that protrudes towards the next section. the flanges was stapled to the cross members at every other joint and then stapled to the rafters proper at every other joint. Is what had happened, the joists had partially rotted and the screws holding down the top vent pulled out, then, the staples completely rusted away. Whenever I would crank open the top vent, the vent could be moved upwads about four to six inches. thus, I knew something was wrong. LOL The next thing that happened, the corners had began coming apart and the longest screws in the world would not hold them to the rotted plywood beneath the siding. And then, that last fishing journey turned into an adventure when things really bagan to coming apart and the seam above the front window had separated. LOL Would that be correct to use siding as roofing or would that be completely wrong ?
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Jan 14, 2017 19:59:12 GMT -8
@ten windborn mobiltec Thank you so much for the replies and answers. The roof on the homemade camper I am working on was the same as the siding. it has a Pittsburgh joint at the seams, every two foot. the pittsburgh joint has a sort of a flange that protrudes towards the next section. the flanges was stapled to the cross members at every other joint and then stapled to the rafters proper at every other joint. Is what had happened, the joists had partially rotted and the screws holding down the top vent pulled out, then, the staples completely rusted away. Whenever I would crank open the top vent, the vent could be moved upwads about four to six inches. thus, I knew something was wrong. LOL The next thing that happened, the corners had began coming apart and the longest screws in the world would not hold them to the rotted plywood beneath the siding. And then, that last fishing journey turned into an adventure when things really bagan to coming apart and the seam above the front window had separated. LOL Would that be correct to use siding as roofing or would that be completely wrong ? NO... Roofing has a different water-tight seam and they don't come apart.... I will be doing a video on the manufacturing of a seamed roof when I have mine made for the 66 Super Shasta. Coming to a computer near you very soon....
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mrmarty51
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Post by mrmarty51 on Jan 14, 2017 20:13:59 GMT -8
@ten windborn mobiltec Thank you so much for the replies and answers. The roof on the homemade camper I am working on was the same as the siding. it has a Pittsburgh joint at the seams, every two foot. the pittsburgh joint has a sort of a flange that protrudes towards the next section. the flanges was stapled to the cross members at every other joint and then stapled to the rafters proper at every other joint. Is what had happened, the joists had partially rotted and the screws holding down the top vent pulled out, then, the staples completely rusted away. Whenever I would crank open the top vent, the vent could be moved upwads about four to six inches. thus, I knew something was wrong. LOL The next thing that happened, the corners had began coming apart and the longest screws in the world would not hold them to the rotted plywood beneath the siding. And then, that last fishing journey turned into an adventure when things really bagan to coming apart and the seam above the front window had separated. LOL Would that be correct to use siding as roofing or would that be completely wrong ? NO... Roofing has a different water-tight seam and they don't come apart.... I will be doing a video on the manufacturing of a seamed roof when I have mine made for the 66 Super Shasta. Coming to a computer near you very soon.... Thank You mobiltec. I will be looking forward to seeing that video. Is this something that You are going to be manufacturing and for sale to the general public ? I will be needing roofing and sooooo, :whistling: LOL
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