hairba11
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Post by hairba11 on Nov 22, 2016 17:25:07 GMT -8
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mrmarty51
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Post by mrmarty51 on Nov 22, 2016 20:26:42 GMT -8
Before hitting the really thin aluminum with an arc check this out www.durafix.comLike aluminum brazing rod. Works with a torch. Not too hard to work with. I've seen it used a lot for making scale roll cages for radio control rock bouncers. Those take some pretty hard hits. That looks like something I need anyway. I`ll get some coming. I also have a butane torch that heats a much smaller area than a burnsomatic torch. I think it would be much better for these small jobs and I know it will melt aluminum.
I think I can get those riv~nuts from the local fasten-all store. I will check on that tomorrow. Thank You very much for the information. Martin
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mrmarty51
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Post by mrmarty51 on Nov 24, 2016 23:27:28 GMT -8
A ststement I made about never use house hold wiring on a vehicle and here I am using extension cords for trailer lights. LOL I have been using extension cords for a LOT of years and have not had a problem one with that practice. The extension cords I use is of an automotive grade wire and I use the ones that stays flexible when it gets real cold. Okay, now with that cleared up. I did work on the camper yesterday. The floor is insulated and covered. IMG_2862 by Martin Draper, on Flickr IMG_2863 by Martin Draper, on Flickr IMG_2864 by Martin Draper, on Flickr And then today, I raised up the trailer and removed the sttilts and the bracings that was holding it all together. Removed the cross brace from across the back and this happens. LOLOLOL A good portion of the back section just about fell off. there was just the right side tail light wire holding it there. LOL IMG_2865 by Martin Draper, on Flickr And the inspector general. She is making sure that it is still comfortable up there after all the movement. LOL IMG_2866 by Martin Draper, on Flickr
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msgoehring
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Just call me Margaret the shellac, buff, sand an shine queen.
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Post by msgoehring on Nov 25, 2016 3:46:50 GMT -8
Wow, that area must have been really rotten. The good news is it happened before you had finished repairs and were driving down the road. It's also a really good cautionary tale for the rest of us, Don't Remove Your Bracing before everything has been replaced and secured to the frame. I really hate that this happened to you, but at least you're taking it well. We thought the back of our trailer would fall apart as soon as we removed the skin, because we could see daylight through it. Funny enough, it stayed up and the front fell apart when the skin came off, we didn't have any clue the front was that bad. It's a complete miracle the trailer stayed together all the time it was being pulled around 😁
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mrmarty51
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Post by mrmarty51 on Nov 25, 2016 8:13:30 GMT -8
Wow, that area must have been really rotten. The good news is it happened before you had finished repairs and were driving down the road. It's also a really good cautionary tale for the rest of us, Don't Remove Your Bracing before everything has been replaced and secured to the frame. I really hate that this happened to you, but at least you're taking it well. We thought the back of our trailer would fall apart as soon as we removed the skin, because we could see daylight through it. Funny enough, it stayed up and the front fell apart when the skin came off, we didn't have any clue the front was that bad. It's a complete miracle the trailer stayed together all the time it was being pulled around 😁 I knew it was pretty bad. Last time I had it out all the staples holding the siding to the rafter above the window had all pulled out. I run ropes from the back bumper, up over the top then hooked the ropes to ratchet straps that were hooked to the front frame. Pulled it all back together before making the trip back home. about 60 miles. It was then that I had to make the decision to fix it or make an ATV/Snowmachine trailer. Well, I could not imagine life without this nice and cozy camper so the decision was to repair it, no matter what it took. I sort of understood what I was getting into, but to find another camper that I could afford would have led Me to another camper that would be at least this bad if not worse, If they can get worse. LOL, Yes, I know that they can. The next move is going to get the camper positioned onto the trailer exactly where it needs to set, then drill and anchor the walls to the floor and trailer, cross brace then begin the disasembling of the wall structures. Most all the studs are in good condition. I had two of them split when anchoring them to the new sill at the bottom of the walls, I will replace them. All of the curved pieces were cut from 3/4" plywood then doubled to make them an inch and a half. I will be cutting those from 2 X 8s and hoping I can salvage the old pieces for a pattern, without them breaking apart. I will make cardboard templates before trying to get them free.
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mrmarty51
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Post by mrmarty51 on Nov 25, 2016 22:46:34 GMT -8
The camper is bolted to the floor and frame. looking pretty good, solid too. Back left corner. IMG_2867 by Martin Draper, on Flickr Front right corner. IMG_2868 by Martin Draper, on Flickr Got it cross braced for the just in case I really go to tearing it apart. LOL That is Tubby, the eleven pounder, He is the cross bracing inspector today. IMG_2870 by Martin Draper, on Flickr The lower portion on the front was so close to coming off that I removed it too. IMG_2873 by Martin Draper, on Flickr I looked over the cabinet that is screwed to the wall and the ceiling. I got out all the screws going into the rafters except for two that broke off. I should now be able to pretty mush pick the rafters off without too much trouble. I Thank everyone for their concerns and help.It would have been a very big disaster without You guys.
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Post by vikx on Nov 25, 2016 23:05:29 GMT -8
Hang in there Marty! Mz. Inspector General will let you know if you rock her boat...
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mrmarty51
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Post by mrmarty51 on Nov 26, 2016 3:05:51 GMT -8
Hang in there Marty! Mz. Inspector General will let you know if you rock her boat... LOL, Now that is funny.
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mrmarty51
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Post by mrmarty51 on Nov 26, 2016 21:36:22 GMT -8
The left lower portion of the walls structure was pretty well rotted away. this section has a 1/2 inch plywood for a stifener, then two more pieces of plywood to bring it to an inch and a half. Here is how I fixed it. That Multi~tool I recently purchased sure is a nice thing to have. I used it to trim the paneling back then used it to cut out the piece of plywood from the wall. Anyone not having one of these tools and is needing to do some cuts, i`d recommend getting one. First the plywoods rot along the edge. Then the hole, then the filler, the oversized piece to make a lap that is glued and screwed into place then the final piece to bring it to the inch aand a half. IMG_2880 by Martin Draper, on Flickr IMG_2881 by Martin Draper, on Flickr IMG_2882 by Martin Draper, on Flickr IMG_2884 by Martin Draper, on Flickr
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Vintagehotdog
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Hi, we are Paul and Irvina, Currently rebuilding a 12' 1958 Easy Traveler
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1962 Oasis 18'
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Post by Vintagehotdog on Nov 27, 2016 12:23:28 GMT -8
You may already know this, but The new pressure-treated wood has a chemical that reacts negatively to aluminum. It also corrodes screws and nails that aren't especially made to use with it. New building codes won't even let you use standard aluminum flashing with today's pressure-treated wood. It eats it away over time. It takes several years, but why take the risk? OMG Thank you, I was unaware. I only used one piece, across the front of my '58 where the curve forces out the paneling. I'm going to change it out now. Find an Oak 2 x4 I think.
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Vintagehotdog
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Hi, we are Paul and Irvina, Currently rebuilding a 12' 1958 Easy Traveler
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1962 Oasis 18'
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Post by Vintagehotdog on Nov 27, 2016 12:54:09 GMT -8
Thank You everyone for such good advice. I was in Billings yesterday. the only place that had that 1/8th inch plywood was Pierce RV and mobile homes at $50.00 a sheet. I thought that they was way out of their tree until I seen some of the posts of where to buy this stuff. I did find that Menards in Dickinson can order it in for less than $10.00 a sheet but I do not know if it would be the same stuff ot something suitable. It is called Lauan and it looks like birch from the grain of the wood in the pic; I ordered eight sheets. That way I will have enough in case I need to make repairs to My current paneling. I know there is mold on the stuff in the camper but I can not find the 1/8th inch paneling in plywood either. I guess I could use this Lauan stuff then paint it white before installing it. guess I`ll deal with that when I get there, after I get the campers base all built and installed back onto the trailer. Click here to look at the LAUAN 16 years ago we originally used Luan for the interior. It came out great. Unfortunately life went south and I ended up rotting the whole trailer away. Rebuilding it now. Rebuilding not restoring. This is so embarrassing as I can't believe what a nice trailer I had when I look back. 00000208 by vintagehotdog, on Flickr
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Nov 27, 2016 12:54:09 GMT -8
You may already know this, but The new pressure-treated wood has a chemical that reacts negatively to aluminum. It also corrodes screws and nails that aren't especially made to use with it. New building codes won't even let you use standard aluminum flashing with today's pressure-treated wood. It eats it away over time. It takes several years, but why take the risk? OMG Thank you, I was unaware. I only used one piece, across the front of my '58 where the curve forces out the paneling. I'm going to change it out now. Find an Oak 2 x4 I think. Oak may be overkill. Poplar at Lowes will often work or even Douglas Fur on important pieces. Oak is expensive.
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mrmarty51
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Post by mrmarty51 on Nov 27, 2016 13:02:23 GMT -8
Thank You everyone for such good advice. I was in Billings yesterday. the only place that had that 1/8th inch plywood was Pierce RV and mobile homes at $50.00 a sheet. I thought that they was way out of their tree until I seen some of the posts of where to buy this stuff. I did find that Menards in Dickinson can order it in for less than $10.00 a sheet but I do not know if it would be the same stuff ot something suitable. It is called Lauan and it looks like birch from the grain of the wood in the pic; I ordered eight sheets. That way I will have enough in case I need to make repairs to My current paneling. I know there is mold on the stuff in the camper but I can not find the 1/8th inch paneling in plywood either. I guess I could use this Lauan stuff then paint it white before installing it. guess I`ll deal with that when I get there, after I get the campers base all built and installed back onto the trailer. Click here to look at the LAUAN 16 years ago we originally used Luan for the interior. It came out great. Unfortunately life went south and I ended up rotting the whole trailer away. Rebuilding it now. Rebuilding not restoring. This is so embarrassing as I can't believe what a nice trailer I had when I look back. 00000208 by vintagehotdog, on Flickr Regardless of the past, What You are doing is a thing of real beauty. That is going to be very nice when it is finished.
Just got done cutting plywood curves for the front and back upper curves/corners. Mow to glue and screw them together in twos to make that 1". I`ll be treating these with either paint or Boiled Linseed Oil. BLO has a smell but I do not believe it to be harmful and once it has soaked in and aired out it should be about none at all.
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hairba11
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Post by hairba11 on Nov 27, 2016 13:06:53 GMT -8
A source for oak I've used are the 50x120" pallets sheet metal comes on. A quick scrounge around industrial areas and a couple of questions at the office and come away with a skid for $0~10
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Vintagehotdog
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Hi, we are Paul and Irvina, Currently rebuilding a 12' 1958 Easy Traveler
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Post by Vintagehotdog on Nov 27, 2016 16:08:56 GMT -8
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