mrmarty51
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Post by mrmarty51 on Nov 2, 2016 6:38:48 GMT -8
I've done a lot of retro type trailers and saved "most" of the paneling. A person can add framing and insert a piece here and there. Also, you can glue a backer(s) to compromised paneling and turn it into strong plywood again... Mainly, strip the rot and add layers. I had read in one of Your posts where You had done that and I thought that was a pretty good plan. I`ll be on the search now for some 1/8th inch plywood or plywood paneling. I am not sure if the local lumber stores carries that. it seems that I once was looking for some for some reason or the other and was told they didn`t carry it. no big deal, i`ll be going to Billings the first of December and can probably get some over there. The roof covering is aluminum. there is a lot of pin holes in some of it. i may be looking for a source for that stuff too. i will check in the links threads and see what is there. There is also some camper stores in Billings and they may have some of that too. it has that funny Z bend for the joints, i think I read it was called a Pennsylvania or a Pittsburgh joint. I am also wondering about a sealer between the joints on that stuff. I can get Lexan glue here and am thinking that might be pretty good for the joints before slipping them back together. I will get Your book opened, I`ll think that there`d be a lot of info in there on that subject. Have a wonderful and bless`d day everyone. i shall return in a while. When I get some more pics. to post mostly.
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mrmarty51
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Post by mrmarty51 on Nov 2, 2016 10:43:58 GMT -8
Got daylight all the way around except for in one pesky spot, around the left side wheel well. Going affer it now. LOL
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Post by vikx on Nov 2, 2016 10:58:03 GMT -8
If the roof is pinholed, it MUST be replaced. There is no sealer available that will seal a pinholed roof. There's a lot of threads on new metal for the roof; many large truck repairs have sheet aluminum and will cut to your specs.
Sealer is not normally needed with the metal siding seams. (Pittsburg) The metal slips up into the Pittsburg at least 1/2", which prevents leaks. When there is a vertical seam, butyl putty is the recommended. This is a seam without the Z, just one piece of metal overlapping another.
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mrmarty51
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Post by mrmarty51 on Nov 2, 2016 11:22:13 GMT -8
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msgoehring
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Post by msgoehring on Nov 2, 2016 11:51:07 GMT -8
Now you get to remove the wheel wells, put the floor on some furniture moving dollies and hope it just rolls right under the body. 😊
My husband and I are changing our roof to a one piece roof with no seams of any kind. We called a visited quite a few metal fabricators in the Boise area before we found someone willing to do our siding because of the breaks in it, but the roof was easy. Just like vikx said, we called some companies that work on refers and other types of trailers and they said they can get us what we need for the roof for just over $100.
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chametzoo
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Post by chametzoo on Nov 2, 2016 14:13:36 GMT -8
It's really got a pretty sink backsplash. Hope you can save it. Did the trailer come with foam insulation? Yes and yes. LOL I was surprised that it had foam for insulation. It always was real cozy and warm, even down on the floors, when it was below zero temps and the wind was a howling. Along with the foam there is a shiny foil backing to reflect back in the heat. I really do not want to disturb the interior any more than I have too. the paneling is not really not too bad for as bad as it is. LOL Along the edges there is some rot but I`m thinking that it is still solid enough that once the structural frame work is replaces and the paneling is sandwiched between the new solid wood that it will outlast Me and Mine grandchildrens. This is a nice compact trailer… well on its way to a new life on the road! I see you've marked the insulation panels logically. Are you planning on reusing those or just using them as templates for new material? Lots of black mold on them; on the interior panelling as well.
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mrmarty51
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Post by mrmarty51 on Nov 3, 2016 6:33:44 GMT -8
Now you get to remove the wheel wells, put the floor on some furniture moving dollies and hope it just rolls right under the body. 😊 My husband and I are changing our roof to a one piece roof with no seams of any kind. We called a visited quite a few metal fabricators in the Boise area before we found someone willing to do our siding because of the breaks in it, but the roof was easy. Just like vikx said, we called some companies that work on refers and other types of trailers and they said they can get us what we need for the roof for just over $100. Not much in this town for services such as that, for the roofing. I will check in Billings though, 150 miles to the west. I do get over there occasionally.
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mrmarty51
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Post by mrmarty51 on Nov 3, 2016 6:42:34 GMT -8
Yes and yes. LOL I was surprised that it had foam for insulation. It always was real cozy and warm, even down on the floors, when it was below zero temps and the wind was a howling. Along with the foam there is a shiny foil backing to reflect back in the heat. I really do not want to disturb the interior any more than I have too. the paneling is not really not too bad for as bad as it is. LOL Along the edges there is some rot but I`m thinking that it is still solid enough that once the structural frame work is replaces and the paneling is sandwiched between the new solid wood that it will outlast Me and Mine grandchildrens. This is a nice compact trailer… well on its way to a new life on the road! I see you've marked the insulation panels logically. Are you planning on reusing those or just using them as templates for new material? Lots of black mold on them; on the interior panelling as well. I`m thinking if I wash those panels and insulation with some bleach and water that it should kill the mold. On the paneling, i`m thinking that once i get the body back on the frame that I`ll be dismantling the roof, front and back completely and I will then replace the ceiling, front and back paneling. I guess I could do the walls too but I just do not want to deal with trying to remove the cupboards and closet. It seems that every time I try to remove anything in or around them cupboards that those ring shank nails holds tougher than the material they are drove into and the structure begins to bust every time I try to do anything with them.
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mrmarty51
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Post by mrmarty51 on Nov 3, 2016 6:50:47 GMT -8
Okay, the floor decking is removed. Along with the 1-1/2" insulation there was a real heavy aluminum foil laying on top of it. I have some pressure treated 2X4s and 2X6s that I am going to rip down and make the side structures from those. There is one stick across the front that is bad, i will use pressure treat for that too. going to put down treated 1/2 inch plywood for the deck. I`ll get several rolls of that reynolds Wrap heavy duty aluminum foil and staple that down on top of the floor joists. Here is where it is at now. IMG_2830 by Martin Draper, on Flickr IMG_2829 by Martin Draper, on Flickr
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Nov 3, 2016 8:54:38 GMT -8
You may already know this, but The new pressure-treated wood has a chemical that reacts negatively to aluminum. It also corrodes screws and nails that aren't especially made to use with it. New building codes won't even let you use standard aluminum flashing with today's pressure-treated wood. It eats it away over time. It takes several years, but why take the risk?
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mrmarty51
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Post by mrmarty51 on Nov 4, 2016 4:06:16 GMT -8
You may already know this, but The new pressure-treated wood has a chemical that reacts negatively to aluminum. It also corrodes screws and nails that aren't especially made to use with it. New building codes won't even let you use standard aluminum flashing with today's pressure-treated wood. It eats it away over time. It takes several years, but why take the risk? OH MY, I never knew that. I did rip one of them 2X10s into 2X2s already. I got the coated screws, i wonder if they would be okay to use in the PT wood. also, I wonder if I put some heavy plastic between the PT and the siding if that would stop the corossional properties of the aluminum ? I do have a roll of that stuff on hand. If that might work okay I could, after rebuilding the structure and before adding the aluminum over it, lay on some Tyvek underlayment to keep the PT separated from the aluminum. At the least, i would like to use the PT along the edges and also around the curved corners of the outside of the structure. I do not want to see any rot on this thing ever again. I know that even with regular lumber it would out last Me but, I would like to see it passed down, even unto My great grandchildren without anyone having the problem of rot with it. Thank you very much for bringing this issue to my attention. Would You know if the treated plywood I got for under the floor joist and for the top decking would have the same affects on the aluminum as the PT lumber would ? I will try a search and see if that yields any information.
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mrmarty51
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Post by mrmarty51 on Nov 4, 2016 4:31:09 GMT -8
I did search and found this information here. Click the CLICKI then followed a link in that page and it went here. Click the CLICKAnother link on that page took Me to another page with information of a product called Micro Pro. Much more friendly to various metals without the corrossional properties of PT wood. Click the CLICK
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mrmarty51
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Post by mrmarty51 on Nov 4, 2016 4:37:20 GMT -8
I will check with the local lumber store and see if they have any of this Micro Pro lumber here, If not,I will be in Billings today and I will see if Home Depot or Lowes has any of this Micro Pro lumber available. sure would be nice if they had it already cut into 2X2z. LOL
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mrmarty51
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Post by mrmarty51 on Nov 4, 2016 4:57:06 GMT -8
If I can not get the Micro Pro lumber I will then go back to regular lumber for building the structures, probably regular plywood too. I want NO Problems whatsoever. keep it simple I guess. The plan for building the floor is to cut the 2X2s to the proper lengths, then screw those down to the old floors structure, after getting it all into place then screw together the pieces. when finished, pull that structure out, pull out the old structure, flip over the new structure, add the underlayment then flip it back over and shove it back onto the trailer, then, place in the styrophoam insulating pieces and then the top deck. Looking at the color of the treated plywood, it may already be the Micro Pro formula, I will check on that though. If it is not, i will see if micro pro plywood is available. If not, i will use some of the visqueen that I have and put a barrier between it and the aluminum siding. Guess I will have to check into the painted screws too and see if they are compatible with the treatment. I did a quick search and could find no info regarding the painted screws.
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Nov 4, 2016 5:19:56 GMT -8
I would imagine anything made for deck building would be corrosive resistant. Of course the other thing to consider about pressure-treated lumber is that dry is better than wet. Obviously because they're using chemicals that "dry" over several months.
I'm no expert, but my feeling is that hard wood is better than soft wood for framing in key areas. Think Douglas Fur rather than framing pine. And pressure-treated is not really needed. As you will see in many threads, the key to protecting a vintage camper long-term is keeping the water out. If you can keep it under cover when it's not used, that's the best. Even tarp or cover will save it from damage. Above all, fresh putty is a lifesaver. You probably know all this, but for other people reading it's worth repeating.
As far as I know, none of the real pros on this Forum use pressure-treated lumber and their campers last for years and years.
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Additional thought: As one of your articles hinted at, there is a debate on whether PT wood is safe in enclosed living areas. Some PT can apparently off-gas chemicals. Is a camper "living space" or ourdoor space? And how long does PT lumber take to dry out?
A good quote from one of your links: "ACQ treated lumber will react very strongly with any aluminum, corroding aluminum fasteners and aluminum brackets very quickly. Even Aluminum siding will blister."
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