cr123890
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Post by cr123890 on Dec 11, 2016 21:01:31 GMT -8
im about to start my rebuild but im wandering where I should start the floors need replacing and also some of the lower walls of course and maybe a roof joist close to the sky light but what should I start with the floor roof or walls thanks cr
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msgoehring
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Just call me Margaret the shellac, buff, sand an shine queen.
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1957 Westerner Deluxe
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Post by msgoehring on Dec 11, 2016 21:22:07 GMT -8
Here's what I tell newbies when they start: When restoring or repairing a vintage trailer, you must start from the OUTSIDE and work your way in. You must leave the cabinets, closets and other interior items in place because they provide the structural integrity of the trailer. In order to safely and properly repair rot or water damage in a trailer you need to start with removing the skins and shoring up the frame while it is still supported by the interior. You also need to check the boards that hold the body to the frame which are called skirt board (this one is the bottom board of the trailer body) and the sill board (which is attached to the frame to nail or screw the body to) as these are likely to be rotted also. Here is a thread that tells you the names of the trailer frame parts: vintagetrailertalk.freeforums.net/thread/1093/vintage-trailer-framing But before you even remove a piece of skin, paneling or anything else please, please check out these following two resources that are available from members of this forum who restore and repair vintage trailers for a living. They have been a complete life saver not just for me, but for many others. You have no idea of what can happen if a trailer is not repaired correctly, but one thing is you can be driving down the road and the entire body of the trailer will come off the frame like this one did: The first resource is mobiltec. He makes videos and posts them on YouTube of his work sharing how to do everything on a trailer from start to finish. His website is: www.cannedhamtrailers.com and I recommend you watch this video first so you better understand why these things have to be repaired from the outside in: www.youtube.com/watch?v=hDdpZgSD1JM . He does all these videos for free to help others who are interested in vintage trailers, but he does appreciate donations from his website if you feel he's been a help and are so inclined. Next is a wonderful repair manual put together by another long time member that restores trailers, whose forum name is vikx. You can find the manual here : vintagetrailerrepairmanual.weebly.com My husband doesn't do computers so this manual has become very important to him as we work to do a frame off restoration of our 57 Westerner Deluxe travel trailer. So to summarize, start with mobiltec's videos about removing the skin and repairing the framework. Then the floor will figure into that area most likely also. If I have any of this wrong then I'm sure mobiltec or vikx will pipe in and set you straight. I'm super glad you asked about where to start before just tearing into it, some people have had to tear out work they did because they were doing it wrong.
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Post by vikx on Dec 11, 2016 21:40:33 GMT -8
Here'a a short version of what I do:
1. Take all the windows and doors out; all the "fittings" as well. (water fill, electrical inlet, etc) 2. Remove J rail, awning rail, and all edge trims. There might be some around the wheel wells etc. 3. Pick nails and staples holding the front, rear and roof edges. 4. Straighten the edges on the front and rear metal and lift away from the siding. Do not skip straightening the edges before moving the metal! 5. Pick the nails/or staples attaching the siding to the trailer. Some trailers have staples at the windows and doors, take a close look. 6. Removing the bottom siding from one side. It should slip down out of the Pittsburg seam above. The upper metal is stapled on the lip. You will begin to see lotsa rotsa... 7. Once the skins are off, you can begin to repair the wheel wells, skirts and sills. Depending on how bad the floor is, you may have to take it down to the frame to do proper repairs. Sometimes, a floor (and the joists below) can be repaired without. If the floor edges are not too bad, you might get lucky and be able to do some piecemeal work. 8. Repairs go on from here. The roof can be rolled and removed or "floated" to the side for rafter repairs. If the ceiling panels need replacing, very difficult to make repairs with the roof on. The ceiling panels overlap the top of the wall edges.
Watch some of Mobil's videos and take some planning time. We are all here to help.
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Ten
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70 Shasta 16SC + 1964 Airflyte
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Post by Ten on Dec 11, 2016 21:43:15 GMT -8
The best advice I ever got was LEARN what to do first, then take one bite at a time.
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cr123890
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Post by cr123890 on Dec 11, 2016 22:09:58 GMT -8
ive got plywood behind the outer skin in some spots it looks like that will be a strong part in the repair I assume thanks cr
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nccamper
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1962 Forester- 1956 Shasta
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Post by nccamper on Dec 12, 2016 5:37:03 GMT -8
ive got plywood behind the outer skin in some spots it looks like that will be a strong part in the repair I assume thanks cr Post a few photos. It's the best way to get specific advice. By the way, I wish I had the advice above before starting my first camper. I think this is the first time I've given three "likes" in a row.
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Vintagehotdog
Active Member
Hi, we are Paul and Irvina, Currently rebuilding a 12' 1958 Easy Traveler
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1962 Oasis 18'
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Post by Vintagehotdog on Dec 13, 2016 8:27:24 GMT -8
Yup, what they said. The correct answers are above. I would give a "two thumbs up" to vikx on the direct steps to take but there is only a one thumbs up button. Just think "frame off"!
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roadtripper
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Post by roadtripper on Dec 13, 2016 18:10:57 GMT -8
Hi, would like to jump in here as this is where we are too. Introduced myself recently tackling a 62 traveleze. Still working on a carport so the trip home is a couple weeks away still. Thanks viks for the summary. I plan on taking off the trim, windows etc. exterior and then the water tank, water heater and misc plumbing I'll be replacing and then starting outside in from the rear, where the most obvious rot problems are. I have a couple questions. On the side skin there is a seam above the wheel well. If I detach below that will that joint separate or should I just fold it up if the upper part appears ok? Also, under the floor is that old fiberboard kind of flopping around. Most is intact except a couple areas near the edges. Should I cut all of it away between the frame areas to see the plywood and if the floor can be saved just reseal it with Henry's or something? Thanks.
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paxtonshasta
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http://paxtonshasta.blogspot.com/2012/02/what-did-we-do.html
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1962 Shasta
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Post by paxtonshasta on Dec 13, 2016 19:30:55 GMT -8
I think it's important to start with documenting every detail about your camper. Take TONS of photos! Even videos and notes. When I started, I only took a few pics and videos, but I REALLY regreted later that I didn't document every little detail. By the time to get into it, you will have forgotten a lot about its original placements and measurements, etc.
But make sure you keep us up today with pics too!!!
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Post by vikx on Dec 13, 2016 22:03:43 GMT -8
Roadtripper, the seam will come apart. The way that type of camper is skinned is from the top down. So, the top skins are attached at the top and edges and the Pittsburg "lip" stapled at the bottom. (trailers are framed so that there is wood behind) The next piece of skin is inserted up and into the Pittsburg groove and stapled at the sides and lip. This continues until the bottom piece is in place.
On the belly, you can probably patch the floppy places. You'll know more when you start the teardown. It's hard to know until you figure out if the upper floor is bad. I'm guessing you'll find a few surprises...
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roadtripper
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Post by roadtripper on Dec 14, 2016 6:52:19 GMT -8
Thanks so much for sharing the knowledge and experience.
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