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Post by Teachndad on Aug 23, 2016 11:29:12 GMT -8
Hi Friends, I don't know which type of plywood to get for the new floor in my Westerner. See this catalog page from a lumber yard near me that specializes in plywood. www.farwestplywood.com/catalog/ I would be purchasing the plywood here. MDX, CDX, ABX, Marine, ACX are the ones they carry. Which one do you recommend? My original floor on my Westerner was 1/2" thick. Floor length is 118". I plan on putting sheet linoleum on top of the floor. Thanks, Rod
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Post by danrhodes on Aug 23, 2016 14:11:54 GMT -8
My opinion as a tightwad and low skilled DIYer, use ACX. MDX is sawdust (even if supposedly good for exterior), CDX will have too many voids requiring attention under your linoleum. ABX will give you a nice surface that only the spiders under your trailer will see. Marine is just too expensive. Considering your original floor lasted this long, with proper waterproofing, standard ACX plywood should outlast you.
I do wonder if you shouldn't up your plywood to 5/8" or 3/4" though?
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Post by Teachndad on Aug 23, 2016 15:15:14 GMT -8
My opinion as a tightwad and low skilled DIYer, use ACX. MDX is sawdust (even if supposedly good for exterior), CDX will have too many voids requiring attention under your linoleum. ABX will give you a nice surface that only the spiders under your trailer will see. Marine is just too expensive. Considering your original floor lasted this long, with proper waterproofing, standard ACX plywood should outlast you. I do wonder if you shouldn't up your plywood to 5/8" or 3/4" though? Hey Dan, Thanks for the advice! Interesting question regarding changing the thickness of the floor. I dunno. I never thought about it. Wouldn't 5/8" just be about what the old 1/2" was? So, maybe I could go that route? Haven't "they" reduced the thicknesses of all plywoods? I thought back in the day when the Westerner was originally built, wasn't the wood exactly 1/2"? My biggest concern about going thicker on the floor would be how it might impact the floor to ceiling wardrobe closet. Now I gotta squeeze it into a shorter gap. Any thoughts? But, maybe because it's all made of wood, the tolerances in reducing the height of the ceiling by 1/8 or 1/4 might not be an issue? Looking for a discussion.
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Post by danrhodes on Aug 23, 2016 15:47:35 GMT -8
You can fudge the wall height by mounting them 1/8 to 1/4 higher to compensate? I thought I remember mobiltec saying he replaces old flooring with 5/8 or more...
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Aug 23, 2016 19:01:20 GMT -8
You can fudge the wall height by mounting them 1/8 to 1/4 higher to compensate? I thought I remember mobiltec saying he replaces old flooring with 5/8 or more... If you are re-using the old metal siding then you better take that into consideration. Always try to keep the dimensions the same as original when possible. You can go smaller and the skin will still fit with simple trimming. But if you go larger that stuff ainna gonna stretch real easy.
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ladywendolyn
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Post by ladywendolyn on Aug 23, 2016 19:45:40 GMT -8
Ok so this is a newbie question but is it possible to switch out the floor without taking down the walls? I e seen photos of sections done but not the whole thing.,,
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Aug 23, 2016 20:00:57 GMT -8
Ok so this is a newbie question but is it possible to switch out the floor without taking down the walls? I e seen photos of sections done but not the whole thing.,, Depends on how your trailer is built. If the walls are mounted to the sides and you remove all of the cabinets then yes.
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ladywendolyn
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Post by ladywendolyn on Aug 23, 2016 20:04:45 GMT -8
Hmm I guess I'll find out next week when the final skin comes off. I'll post a photo... I'll need you to tell me. I have no idea what I'm looking for....
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RinTin
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Post by RinTin on Aug 24, 2016 7:09:53 GMT -8
Hi Rod,
I quickly reviewed your build thread to see how the original floor was constructed. It looks like there was nothing underneath the plywood sub-floor and it laid directly on top of the metal trailer frame and wood floor joists (using home construction terms). Is that correct?
Assuming you plan to rebuild with 1/2" plywood as originally done, my concern would be where the plywood seams butt together since they are unsupported where they run horizontally between the metal and wood sub-framing they attach to. The problem I see is that 1/2" plywood is quite flexible and if left unsupported, with foot traffic, the plywood sheets will flex independent of each other at the seams, causing your flooring to lift. Does that make sense?
One easy solution would be to screw short lengths of 1x4 to the underside of the plywood along the seams between the framing members. I would also use a sheet product for the flooring rather than VCT as it will better hold up to the flexing of the thinner plywood.
As for your plywood choices, the more plies, the stronger and stiffer. I buy 7-ply 1/2" construction plywood when I can find it, but 5-ply is what you usually find these days. You also need a smooth surface if installing your flooring directly to the plywood. Marine ply will be the strongest by far, but doesn't sound like it fits your budget. If the ABX and ACX have the same number of plies, ACX will be a bit less expensive and work just as well. If you go with ACX, be sure to undercoat the areas around the knots well as they are the most likely areas for water intrusion, although in SoCal that's not such a huge concern.
To save a few shekels you may also want to look for CCX which has one patched and sanded face that should be good enough to lay flooring over.
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Post by Teachndad on Aug 24, 2016 19:07:22 GMT -8
Hi Greg,
Thank you for your time in responding. Your assertion of the build design of the floor is just as you described in your post above. It sits directly on top of the frame.
You make some really good points about the support under the seam. My Westerner buddy, Dan Parks suggested the same as you had on creating a support under the seam just as you had described. I was planning on that. Definately, going with the sheet linoleum as that's my preference. I just get to search out a color/pattern...
The info on the layers in the plywood is very helpful. Didn't know that. Going to make some phone calls this weekend.
Thank you.
Rod
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Post by msgoehring on Aug 24, 2016 20:40:24 GMT -8
Hi Rod, Sam and I used 3/4" plywood, I don't know what kind cause I didn't ask, but it was spendy and there's no knots. We had a lot of extra left from the short section of the floor and we used that to create 8" wide pieces to go over the seam front underneath leaving just enough room for the supports the floor sits on just like they did with the original floor.
We figured we'd go a bit thicker and adjust the top of the wardrobe so we felt better about the support it will provide, but since it lasted 59 years being built like it was, there was no reason to change it. We are of course going to coat it with asphalt emulsion, but that again is just for our added piece of mind so we know the floor is protected better from water and rot than it was.
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randys
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Post by randys on Aug 25, 2016 14:16:22 GMT -8
Should the plywood and 2x4's be pressure treated when used for the floor and framing? Or is another method of weather proofing better?
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Post by Teachndad on Aug 25, 2016 15:13:36 GMT -8
Hi Randys,
I don't think pressure treated is compatible with aluminum. I (believe) it creates a chemical reaction with the aluminum and should not be used. Someone will confirm with mor experience. Get your lumber at a lumber yard if possible. I just keep hearing a lot of bad experiences with the HD experience in this area. Cheaper yes, but not better. Pay a few extra bucks for better wood.
Rod
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Post by Teachndad on Aug 25, 2016 15:15:42 GMT -8
Hi Rod, Sam and I used 3/4" plywood, I don't know what kind cause I didn't ask, but it was spendy and there's no knots. We had a lot of extra left from the short section of the floor and we used that to create 8" wide pieces to go over the seam front underneath leaving just enough room for the supports the floor sits on just like they did with the original floor. We figured we'd go a bit thicker and adjust the top of the wardrobe so we felt better about the support it will provide, but since it lasted 59 years being built like it was, there was no reason to change it. We are of course going to coat it with asphalt emulsion, but that again is just for our added piece of mind so we know the floor is protected better from water and rot than it was. Hi Margaret, Thank you. good stuff. Now, I need to mull it all over. Cheers, Rod
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Aug 25, 2016 17:36:48 GMT -8
Please keep trying to remember that we're dealing with trailers. Not houses. Pressure treated wood is for heavy loads bolted to concrete. These are light weight boxes bolted to a moving metal frame. And yes. Pressure treated wood is not compatible with aluminum. Undercoating and belly pans seems to work for the areas that get a lot of weather.
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