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Post by ladywendolyn on Aug 13, 2016 15:45:04 GMT -8
After weeks of scraping off tar, I discovered today during the removal of my roof vent that there is a two inch tear in the skin next to the vent opening. This may explain all the use of roofing tar by the PO. The tear is a deal breaker for me because even if I can fix it I am guaranteed to spend the rest of my life obsessing over it and wondering if the repair is holding. There are a few other roof issues I don't like. One is the fact that the skin is cut too short in some spots. The other is that I have no way of knowing if there are hidden holes or gouges that I can't see. So I am going to bite the bullet and order a new roof. Can someone please explain to me exactly how to measure? I am not sure how to account for the bumps in the pattern. It appears there may be a little wiggle room on top of the front and rear window as the "break" where it joins is about an inch above the window edge, I assume to allow some adjustment. (See last photo) As well, how do I know how thick the aluminum is?      |
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turbodaddy
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Post by turbodaddy on Aug 13, 2016 16:09:03 GMT -8
Lady,I feel your pain. But I have to tell you I had similar issues with the FAN's roof. I thought long and hard about replacing it. Instead (especially after all that nasty scraping that took me about 2 weeks) I decided to buck the trend here on VTT and ordered 2" and 4" Eternabond tape. It has been covering screw holes and gashes made by a PO for 2 1/2 years in all kinds of weather and 8000 miles of highway travel. Some day I might feel the need to replace the roof, but a few rolls of Eternabond is much less money and it can be done again and again, if need be, in practically no time at all. Putty tape will take care of those edges. I thought I had pix of my "finished" roof, but I guess I do not. I have tape across the full width of the camper on about 6 places where the PO had placed screws through the aluminum into the rafters. Also on a couple of seams. I just get a stepladder once in a while and check it out. No problems so far! Good luck! |
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Aug 13, 2016 19:21:37 GMT -8
I'm in the same boat on my latest camper. The last owner spread goop on every seam and around the vent. Nobody goes through that effort without a good reason. I learned on a camper a few years ago that taking the time to scrape off the goop in hopes the old owner was wrong about the roof being defective is a bad gamble. It's also a miserable job. But we all try it once, don't we?
Now comes the inevitable second question you'll ask yourself...why not replace every panel while you're ordering a new roof.
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ladywendolyn
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Post by ladywendolyn on Aug 13, 2016 19:56:19 GMT -8
I'm in the same boat on my latest camper. The last owner spread goop on every seam and around the vent. Nobody goes through that effort without a good reason. I learned on a camper a few years ago that taking the time to scrape off the goop in hopes the old owner was wrong about the roof being defective is a bad gamble. It's also a miserable job. But we all try it once, don't we? Now comes the inevitable second question you'll ask yourself...why not replace every panel while you're ordering a new roof. Haha I found myself eyeing a side panel with a dent as soon as I started thinking about replacing the roof! |
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Aug 13, 2016 20:09:03 GMT -8
I'm in the same boat on my latest camper. The last owner spread goop on every seam and around the vent. Nobody goes through that effort without a good reason. I learned on a camper a few years ago that taking the time to scrape off the goop in hopes the old owner was wrong about the roof being defective is a bad gamble. It's also a miserable job. But we all try it once, don't we? Now comes the inevitable second question you'll ask yourself...why not replace every panel while you're ordering a new roof. Haha I found myself eyeing a side panel with a dent as soon as I started thinking about replacing the roof! Too funny. We're all the same I guess. In truth, with Hemet or CH shipping, boxing and set-up charges doing more skin make a lot of sense. Why pay all the fees for just a roof? |
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Aug 13, 2016 20:25:54 GMT -8
If you order from Steve at Hemet Valley RV he will talk you through the process. But it's really easy. 4 inches wider than the trailer and I usually measure from the top of the front window to the top of the rear window and add 2 inches. I like to have the seam a bit below the top of the window. Lot's of good reasons for that the best of which is you don't want the flange of your windows landing on a seam. Might even go 3 inches over if you are worried about it.
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ladywendolyn
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Post by ladywendolyn on Aug 13, 2016 21:02:37 GMT -8
mobiltec can you look at the last photo of the ones I posted in this thread. It appears that the roof skin on my trailer ends at least an inch above the window. You are suggesting that I get the skin and Pittsburg seam made two inches below my window? Is that correct?
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Post by vikx on Aug 13, 2016 21:51:46 GMT -8
LadyW, the window panels allow for "adjustments". If they are front and rear, two adjustable panels on each side. (cut to fit) In other words, the bottom skin is cut out for the tongue/bumper and positioned as close as possible to the window. Mark it. Then, when the roof gets hung/attached, mark that. You buy longer than you need window panels to fill in and trim to fit.
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ladywendolyn
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Post by ladywendolyn on Aug 13, 2016 22:14:39 GMT -8
@vikx can you please look at the bottom photo of the ones I posted. It shows my rear window. It seems that mobletec, and you are saying that I should buy longer than the top edge of the window, but in the photo you can see that the pittsberg seam stops about an inch before the top of the window and there is an insert piece of pain metal in there. So are you saying I should change the design and drop the new roof seam edge below the top of the window and just scrap that insert piece?
My trailer does not seem to be as you described. I am a bit confused. But when I look at my trailer (see bottom photo) it appears that the way it was built, the one piece roof ends about an inch above the top of the window.
So my questions are...
-Should I just run a tape measure along the roof as it sits and order the same size? Or do I order it two inches longer on each side and throw out that insert piece?
-When measuring, how do I account for the pattern when measuring it bumps in and out?
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Poquito
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Post by Poquito on Aug 14, 2016 3:22:48 GMT -8
Ladywendolyn, Just an idea, if you have an aluminum metal supply within driving distance, you can take a piece and they will measure the gauge for you. (If you have the same piece to spare that is). My roofing is flat, no bends so replacing it is not such a big deal for me, can you replace with a flat piece so you don't have to worry about the additional cost of getting bends? You would still need the end and/or connection seams.
Poquito
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Poquito
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Post by Poquito on Aug 14, 2016 3:33:05 GMT -8
Ladywendolyn, ok so I went back and read another of your post where you want to keep the exterior original so just forget that I mentioned saving money on bends...my campers are not so special, they seem to come and go as the wind blows.
Poquito
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Aug 14, 2016 6:55:29 GMT -8
mobiltec can you look at the last photo of the ones I posted in this thread. It appears that the roof skin on my trailer ends at least an inch above the window. You are suggesting that I get the skin and Pittsburg seam made two inches below my window? Is that correct? Yes I saw that Wendy. Why go through the hassle of cutting another piece of metal and have an extra joint? Just eliminate that piece by going at least one inch below the window line... |
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ladywendolyn
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Post by ladywendolyn on Aug 14, 2016 8:42:54 GMT -8
mobiltec can you look at the last photo of the ones I posted in this thread. It appears that the roof skin on my trailer ends at least an inch above the window. You are suggesting that I get the skin and Pittsburg seam made two inches below my window? Is that correct? Yes I saw that Wendy. Why go through the hassle of cutting another piece of metal and have an extra joint? Just eliminate that piece by going at least one inch below the window line... I agree completely as long as that is ok. I wasn't sure if I had to keep to the original design . So I measure between the two window tops and add two inches? Is that two inches for each end for a total of 4 inches or just two total? |
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Aug 14, 2016 10:26:55 GMT -8
Anything between two and four inches is fine. I like to go two if I know I have a completely accurate measurement. But depending on the type of tape you use, (I use a soft roll up tape) and the amount of shimming that is involved, it is always better to be too big rather than too small. So for you I would say a total of 3 inches would be perfect. Give yourself a little wiggle room. As already stated you can make adjustments in the side metal panels of the front and rear windows to match what ever it comes out as. Some people like to have just one seam in the front and rear so they go almost all the way to the bottom of the window providing that the remainder of space to the bottom of the front or rear of the trailer does not exceed 4 feet. They only make 4 foot panels so you don't want a seam down at the bottom.
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ladywendolyn
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Post by ladywendolyn on Aug 14, 2016 12:40:46 GMT -8
Ok got it... I'm going to measure and then remove the roof tommorow. Thanks for all your help!
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