skinnerboxx
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Post by skinnerboxx on Aug 13, 2016 13:35:28 GMT -8
Whelp, our "water tight" Serro Scotty... isn't. Had a deluge today, and found water running down the port-side wall near the window in the potty/closet and pooling on the floor. Grrr...  It's definitely coming in high and running down - a towel we had in the storage cubby over the potty was damp, so I assume the leak is in the seam between the wall and the roof (the one the PO told me he re-sealed). QUESTION: Clearly I need to climb up and inspect and repair the seal before the plywood is trashed, but what's the best way to go about it? The metal trim piece at the top of the side panel is attached by what looks like rivets or smooth-headed nails, NOT screws, so I don't want to ruin it and not be able to re-attach it. If someone can also suggest the best sealant for that area I'd appreciate it - it LOOKS like the PO used the "self-leveling" stuff in the gap when he worked on it last, not silicone, but I haven't pulled things apart yet. Thanks in advance for any assistance and advice. If anyone needs photos LMK what you need to see and I can post them. |
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skinnerboxx
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Post by skinnerboxx on Aug 13, 2016 14:34:17 GMT -8
UPDATE:
Had a second deluge and observed a pool of standing water in a low spot on the roof right where the water seems to be coming in - it's just fore of the mid-line seam, and runs all the way to the edging. Running my finger along the seam I can't FEEL any voids or holes in the self-leveling stuff the PO used in the seam gap, but I'll definitely remove the trim piece on that side and re-seal the whole area if I can figure out how to do so without ruining the flashing. It's secured on the horizontal roof-edge only by the nails/rivets spaced every few inches and NOT on the vertical sides at all if that helps.
My question now is how can I possibly lift the sagging portion of roof (even 1/2" will probably suffice) so that I can eliminate the standing pool of water in that spot?
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Post by vikx on Aug 13, 2016 20:53:30 GMT -8
I think you have more problems than re-sealing. First of all, Scotty roofs don't overlap the siding so all along the edges is a major leak waiting to happen. The trim is installed with dreaded twisty nails and they are very difficult to remove without damage to the trim. If the edge wood is rotten, they will usually give up easily. That's how you will know you need to take more apart...
Honestly, I don't think there is a sealant that will fix this problem. You can goop it for the summer, but the more goop, the harder it will be to repair when you finally get there. Also, Scottys have plywood walls, so if you do find rot, it's likely the entire trailer will need to be rebuilt. (hard to piece rotten plywood back together)
The roof can be shimmed during repairs and I highly recommend buying new RV roofing and overlaping the walls. That will eliminate most of the edge leaks. It's not an easy build but very rewarding when you see your work providing a sound trailer. Also, with the roof off, it's very easy to place strategic rafters to cure any dips.
I hope this helps. Not what you wanted to hear, I know...
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kirkadie
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'69 Serro Scotty Hilander
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Post by kirkadie on Aug 14, 2016 3:45:21 GMT -8
Yep, sadly Vikx is right about the prognosis. On my Hilander the roof and side skins had gaps where there should be no gaps, the cap rail leaked of course and the PO had used cases of caulk to try and slow the leaks which only made thing worse. You might want to check out how other Scotty owners have dealt with this problem here; www.nationalserroscotty.org/Don't despair, we've all been there... |
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skinnerboxx
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Post by skinnerboxx on Aug 14, 2016 5:56:09 GMT -8
OK I found a page showing how to get the spiral nails and trim off with a cat's paw pry bar. The camper was kept in a garage for several years so I'm going to hope and pray that the damage isn't too bad, and that Eternabond tape combined with trim sealants recommended on the National Serro page will arrest the leak and give me a few years (or longer, who knows) before I have to do something drastic. I'll advise when I know more. Thanks!
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larryb
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Post by larryb on Oct 1, 2016 6:15:25 GMT -8
I just bought my 75 Hilander this week and am studying hard for the upcoming rebuild, I am very interested in hearing how the new roof I will put in can overlap the side to prevent leaks, makes a lot of sense from what I have learned so far, could someone take a second to describe that process? First of a zillion questions I am sure, thanks so much
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Post by vikx on Oct 1, 2016 22:09:46 GMT -8
larryb, Basically, you need roofing about 1 1/4" wider than your existing roof. That allows 5/8" overlap on each side. Order a little wider than you need; it can always be trimmed to fit. You will also find more rot than expected. Easily repaired but time and $$$ specific. We are here to help. Feel free to always ask questions.
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larryb
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Post by larryb on Oct 2, 2016 10:35:03 GMT -8
Thanks so much, did not get much help from the prior, now deleted response  |
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Post by vikx on Oct 6, 2016 21:17:44 GMT -8
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