ladywendolyn
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1964 Golden Falcon
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Post by ladywendolyn on Jun 25, 2016 8:10:13 GMT -8
I am at the point in my restoration where the windows are out, the trim is off and I am removing the final pieces from the exterior so that I can take the skin off. I have a typical Bargman water port as shown in the first photo. I took the screws out, but the port will not budge. The second photo shows the interior of the port and how it is attached to the trailer. On the inside behind this wall is the old metal water tank which looks to be in great shape. can anyone tell me how this is attached and how to get it off without breaking or cracking something? Thank you.   |
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mel
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1964 Shasta Airflyte
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Post by mel on Jun 25, 2016 8:52:09 GMT -8
You have to twist it, We cracked mine while trying to get it off  they are very delicate. We ended taking the lid off and placing a 12" piece of wood straight up and down on the left side of it, and hammering on the top of the wood. That seemed to work and didn't crack it anymore. The crack came from my husband shoving a wrench in it and hammering, so dont try that. I believe there is a thread on here about taking apart the hole water tank including the inlet. Nccamper created the thread, if you want to search for it.... |
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ladywendolyn
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Post by ladywendolyn on Jun 25, 2016 10:25:50 GMT -8
Thanks Mel. Don't know if I want to just twist it and hope for the best. I don't have the best track record with that approach. Does anyone know what they were originally attached with? Is it pipe sodar, or glue? @vixk ??I am wondering if heating it up with my heat gun might help? Any other thoughts?
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nccamper
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1962 Forester- 1956 Shasta
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Post by nccamper on Jun 25, 2016 11:40:59 GMT -8
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yas
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Post by yas on Jun 25, 2016 16:15:56 GMT -8
They're attached with threads and rust. Multiple applications of PB Blaster, let it soak for a few days. Heat gun or torch. Consider sliding a piece of cardboard (cereal box cardboard) behind it so you don't scratch the paint/skin when you unscrew it.
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Post by vikx on Jun 25, 2016 20:52:46 GMT -8
LadyW, I would cut the pipe at the tank. Those old metal tanks are usually NOT in good shape, the bottom rots out. Once the pipe and inlet are free of the trailer, you can put the pipe part in a vise. Use PB Blaster penetrating catalyst on the threads at the fill, overnight would be good. Then heat the fill around the threads. Use welders gloves and carefully unscrew the fill. You can tell if it's ready to let loose, sometimes you have to heat it several times.
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ladywendolyn
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Post by ladywendolyn on Jun 26, 2016 10:59:02 GMT -8
@vixk Can I get a pipe that will fit into it and also into a new water tank?
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Ten
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Post by Ten on Jun 26, 2016 19:40:53 GMT -8
LadyW, the fill port threads are standard iron pipe thread size, I believe 1-1/4 inch. You can find either pipe nipples or insert fittings that will fit the threads and then can be adapted to a new tank. Most plastic tanks are fitted with inlets that accept plastic pipe that will work with insert fittings.  |
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ladywendolyn
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Post by ladywendolyn on Jun 27, 2016 20:28:52 GMT -8
Ok sounds good. I think I will cut it off inside the trailer. It seams unanimous that the tank is not worth saving. It looks fine to me, but I would rather defer to the experts on here than be crying about a big puddle in my trailer a year from now!
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Post by vikx on Jun 28, 2016 21:33:57 GMT -8
Also, when you purchase fittings, be SURE to double check size and OD or ID. (outside/inside diameter) The old fills are usually 1 1/2", while modern ABS tank fittings tend to be 1 1/4". The RV fill hose comes in both sizes, but can not be heated to expand (wonder how I know that?). So, you may need a reducer (marine supply is the only place I've found them). The reducers are not exact, but can be modified to work.
Do some searching and see what sort of tank you will need. ABS are easy to add fills and drains, Poly have to have fittings heat spun or factory ordered...
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they are very delicate. 
