ladywendolyn
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1964 Golden Falcon
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Post by ladywendolyn on Jun 14, 2016 10:12:22 GMT -8
I am wondering if anyone has an opinion on this. In addition to our vintage trailer we have a 5 year old 30 ft Jayco which we bought new and use as a sort of camper at the local beach area for when our kids show up. We haven't decided yet whether we will sell it and just keep the vintage one. Five years in, I feel like we should do some maintenance to avoid future leaks. No leaks yet. I spoke to the dealer and they want $100 to "inspect the roof and seams" plus $50 an hour to do any maintenance they feel it needs. I am hoping someone here can give me an idea of what/ how to inspect, and recommend a product to apply where needed. Caulking? Eternal bond tape? I have no idea what to use, I just know that pails of goop are a no no. Do I have to take the j-rail right off? Thanks for any advice. It's not vintage yet, but if I treat it right it will be someday  Lady W |
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turbodaddy
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17' 1965 Fan "Sunseeker"
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Post by turbodaddy on Jun 14, 2016 16:19:50 GMT -8
Good question. I have no idea how the new ones are built, but I'd say if there is J-rail there must be something underneath to provide a seal, and seems like it must need to be renewed at some point (unless it is the dreaded silicone!) I'm looking forward to what others have to say about this. I bet the dealer would want to goop it.
As an aside, I am going into year three with my Eternabond taped roof. Still just fine, exposed to 2 winters and 8000 miles, in all kinds of weather and wind. I think I'm going to buy enough to do the whole thing over again in case they go out of business.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 14, 2016 16:52:27 GMT -8
Its interesting, I have seen silicone applied in every seam on even a 5 to 8 year old motor home, and thats a lot of seams. And of course, little areas have peeled off here and there. Made my heart jump. What a mess! On newer campers the common standard is considered Dicor self leveling lap sealant, which is known to begin to harden and crack every 3 to 5 years. I can't settle with that idea. I am with turbodaddy, Eternabond has been around enough to prove itself, and if it wouldnt have looked bad on our Shasta I would have done that. This is all I have for you. And yes, I believe dealers would do some sprr of goop method, after all if they didn't you would never come back!
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theresa
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from Northern Maine ~ Proud new owner of Lola, a 1960 Shasta Airflyte and Pearl, a 1962 Mobile Scout
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Post by theresa on Jun 14, 2016 17:27:22 GMT -8
I watched a video somewhere on how to repair leaks in a newer RV (our 1999 is riddled with wood rot, so we've been repairing a bit at a time) and in one of the video's, an RV repairman said to inspect and reseal EVERY seam twice a year! We use the Proflex RV sealant.
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Post by Ross on Jun 15, 2016 3:07:28 GMT -8
I watched a video somewhere on how to repair leaks in a newer RV (our 1999 is riddled with wood rot, so we've been repairing a bit at a time) and in one of the video's, an RV repairman said to inspect and reseal EVERY seam twice a year! We use the Proflex RV sealant. I love Proflex. RV's and trailers that are exposed to the elements 24/7 should be inspected and ALL seams pointed up twice a year, as theresa stated. They are just like a house......maintenance is constantly required. The only reason I would pull the trim off, is if it looks like the caulked seam is showing severe cracking and or damage. Proper cleaning, allow to dry thoroughly and point up the caulk. It can be a real pain, but having any type of water damage is worse and preventable. |
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ladywendolyn
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1964 Golden Falcon
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Post by ladywendolyn on Jun 15, 2016 6:28:55 GMT -8
I watched a video somewhere on how to repair leaks in a newer RV (our 1999 is riddled with wood rot, so we've been repairing a bit at a time) and in one of the video's, an RV repairman said to inspect and reseal EVERY seam twice a year! We use the Proflex RV sealant. I love Proflex. RV's and trailers that are exposed to the elements 24/7 should be inspected and ALL seams pointed up twice a year, as theresa stated. They are just like a house......maintenance is constantly required. The only reason I would pull the trim off, is if it looks like the caulked seam is showing severe cracking and or damage. Proper cleaning, allow to dry thoroughly and point up the caulk. It can be a real pain, but having any type of water damage is worse and preventable. O.K. so Proflex RV sealant it is. I will pick up some tubes before we head for the lake tomorrow We washed her down last night, so ready for the next step. |
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ladywendolyn
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1964 Golden Falcon
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Post by ladywendolyn on Jun 15, 2016 7:19:53 GMT -8
Ross what color do you use in the proflex? I just checked and it comes in multiple colors.
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Post by Ross on Jun 15, 2016 9:58:53 GMT -8
ladywendolyn . The roof was a hot mess on our Starflyte. I scraped and cleaned what I could, but had to go back with something. Our roof is now white, so I went with white caulk. Once it dried, I painted a 2" wide coating of the Crystal Clear Proflex over all of the seams and the seams between the trim and the roof. This stuff ain't cheap, but worth every penny! You can't coat the entire roof with it, just a 2" wide area on either side of the seam or damaged spot, as per the manufacture. I keep some on hand when we are traveling, just in case a tree branch or something else should fall and cause any type of damage to the roof.  As for pointing up between the trim and siding, since we removed all of the paint on the aluminum skin, I use the Proflex Clear in the caulk tubes.
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Post by vikx on Jun 15, 2016 21:48:33 GMT -8
Ross is correct. Do NOT use Proflex caulk tubes. Use paint on Proflex.
That being said, your RV is fairly new and may not need sealing yet. Also, if it has an EPDM "rubber" roof, Proflex will eat thru it. If it's metal, it may help.
Please post some pix so we can see what you have to work with. J rail should be fine if it IS J rail. If it's insert rail, slightly different. Modern RVs have many differences that I have had some experience with. They may require specialty products, depending on what is there.
Also, Dicor is not recommended for anything but roof protrusions that may need to be removed for repair. It sticks to itself so can be touched up. Not for sealing the top of J rail or other maintenance.
Take some time to digest this info. A 5 year old trailer should be fine, hopefully stored indoors in the off season.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 16, 2016 21:27:53 GMT -8
Vikx, am I the only one who thinks any product that has to be applied yearly, it or even more frequently, is garbage? I just don't get it. Seems like a way for the companies to constantly have a demand for their products. There has got to be something better than lasting a year untouched. As far as that goes, j rail and putty tape on vintage trailers sure seems way better. For a decade or more life span. Just my thoughts on it.
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Post by vikx on Jun 16, 2016 22:50:52 GMT -8
Rich, you are correct, except for things that may need repairs. Most are on the roof; vents, Fantastic Fans and the like. The trouble is, if you use "permanent" sealers, it is many hours of picking and swearing to get the culprit loose, much less in a repairable state.
Dicor STICKS and isn't the best sealant but can be removed in a pinch. Since a person can touch up without removing the original layer, it is better than most sealants for roof protrusions. Dicor is used after putty tape and screws into good framing.
Nothing is fool proof and often we experiment to see what actually works. I do seal the top edge of the trim/Jrail with a THIN layer of gutter seal. J rail is meant to last quite some time and repairs are rarely needed. The beauty of gutter seal is that it IS removable with paint or lacquer thinner. (not to mention the fact that the look can be smoothed/cleaned up...
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mobiltec
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1954 Jewel In Progress...
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Post by mobiltec on Jun 28, 2016 16:02:07 GMT -8
Oh boy did I jump into the wrong thread... I don't think we are in Kansas anymore Toto.... You all know my opinion on any kind of goop or slather... If it's such good stuff, why didn't the manufacturers use it in the first place? And how are you going to get all that goop off when you find that it doesn't work for more than one or two seasons? Then you will be faced with doing it right.
I was told by a manufacturer that all RVs are built to last 7 years max. After that it will begin to leak unless you re-seal the trailer. I didn't say put goop over it. I said re-seal it. Ya it's work... Ya it's a pain. If you don't want to do it right then I say sell it when it turns 7 and get another one.
I do agree with Vikx however on the gutter seal being used on the J Rail BEFORE it leaks.
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