All this plumbing is really freaking me out!

DiY, wish we could help more, but you are talking more modern systems than we usually encounter. I will try to help.

1. Water heaters are fairly easy to test. The original insulation should protect any wood framing surrounding the tank. (often styrofoam) The first step would be to be sure the water heater was online during the pressure test. If so, and not leaking, it is safe to test. Fill with water (make sure). Light the pilot, allow the t'stat to warm and turn the heater to ON, and the burner should fire.

2. There are many black tank deodorizers and all work to some degree. Check out RV.net for more exact info. Tons of modern info there. To see if the tank is full, open the bowl valve/flapper and look. You'll know if it's full.

Again, check out modern RV forums for info on your systems. Have fun with your search!

They should have. There are two main types. One has a series, usually four, sensors. The other has an aluminum tape capacitance sensor. I understand the second is more reliable, but I'm still rebuilding my first trailer. All I know is theory. Then either type has a readout. Often with modern trailers there's a single panel with readouts for fresh, gray, and black water tanks, plus battery level. Sometimes generator tank level if applicable, and rarely even propane tanks. Some readouts include an alarm.

You can add any level of that if you like. In my case the freshwater tank will be easy to see, and I'm using a portapotti. I'll have a separate battery readout, so I only need gray water level. I plan to use this: iSeries Tank Readouts. Others may have better suggestions from actual experience.

Your system sounds very similar to the system in my 1970 Shasta. It really all boils down to two systems, if you have onboard and city water systems. They are tied together but should be segregated from each other also. That is to say, where the two systems are hooked together, there should be a backflow preventer that will keep your onboard water from being able to enter the city water hookups.

Replacing the pressure tank and adding the 12-volt pump should be all pretty straightforward. Be sure to use a "demand" pump, that will activate and shut off according to the pressure in the system. Also, watch carefully your installation point for the pump. Not all the pumps available are self-priming. Don't ask how I know that......

The most important things to remember testing your water heater is, first and foremost, and again I say FIRST, make sure your propane lines and system have no leaks. Secondly, do not dry-fire the unit, this will damage the tank to the point of no return. There are only two things that can go wrong...water leak (not likely since your system still had pressure) or no fire. Many who have discussed the issue before have opted to replace their 40- or 50-year old unit just because of not knowing what sediment may have been saved in the tank.

Your water heater is likely manufactured by Bowen, and if so, there are replacements available that are made to the same dimensions as the original. Atwood had bought out the Bowen manufacturing and kept the same specs all these years. It is possible to find one that is a simple propane-only, pilot-run 6- or 10- gallon model that will slide into the existing space without much modification if any at all. Also,venting is done out through the side of the trailer, so there is little to be concerned with as far as heat or actual threat of fire, as long as the fuel system is in tip-top shape.  Also, the installation is Primarily from the outside in.  The tubing would have to be disconnected from the inside, the propane line would be outside the unit (assuming that one...), and the heater mounts to the outside wall with screws all around the frame.  Removal should not be as complex as you imagine.

One more thing, I highly recommend installing a bypass at the water heater, for the sake of simplifying the winterization process. There are simple bypass kits available, I believe also made by Atwood. I installed one with my new heater, just for that reason.



In the era of both these trailers, late-60's/early 70's, there were few that actually had twin waste tanks.  The grey water was commonly drained to the ground, or directly into a septic of some sort.  Of course, on the ground is highly frowned upon now.  Your drains from sink and shower would bypass any tank.  Trailers that didn't have toilets seldom if ever had any waste tank.

So far as the toilet itself goes, it is nothing more than a glorified porta potty.  If you have any experience with them, you already are armed with what you need to know.  The waste is held just below floor level, but is no more intrusive than any portapotty.  Several companies offer their versions of deodorizers and chemicals that break the solids down.  Thetford makes one that I have used called "Campa Chem"  tank deodorizer.  It works.  If you have to peek down the flap to see the water level, you won't be bowled over with any odor.    For the most part, the only testing there is to do is for leaks.  Your water supply side should be good, again since there was still pressure.  The holding tank should be okay, but I would recommend flushing it out and then filling to capacity to be sure there are no leaks.

Lastly, remember that the holding tank should never be left open if you are connected to a campground septic.  It will only drain the liquids, and the solids will become a horrible problem.  Don't ask how I know this either.....

For your viewing pleasure, here are a couple vids on youtube featuring some aspects of dumping, cleaning, and flushing the black water tank.  I found these helpful when I started to work on mine, just to understand the concepts better:

www.youtube.com/watch?v=zYJCLzGaaB8&list=PLhC6EoQADzubL_E2laQp8WbwunmbVtLAs