mckaylife
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66 Shasta Super 18
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Post by mckaylife on Jun 1, 2016 10:07:13 GMT -8
I am convinced that most of my floor damage in my Shasta Super was due to water coming in from the PO grey water inventions (see my trailer post for more info on that) and a leaking water tank in the back. Since my Shasta has a belly pan (I think that is what you call it) instead of these leaks leading to just damaged plywood I also have rotted floor joists. In addition the corners have some rust to contend with in the belly pan. I am inclined to clean the rust up and spay it in an attempt to avoid further rusting but not actually repair it. My thinking on that is I now have some areas where water can escape if it needs to. I would then just treat the new floor joists as if there is no belly pan to make them more water resistant. The only issue i see with that is the joists that run the length of the trailer end on top of the belly pan right before the front and back angle iron so they would sag a bit in the rusted corners. I was thinking that I would cut the new edge floor joists so they end on the front and back angle iron eliminating the sag from the weight being on the pan. Seems like a decent plan. Is there anyone that thinks I should cut in new belly pan sections to overlay the rusted areas instead? Or does anyone think that the joists ending on the front and back angle iron is an issue? Here is some photos to illustrate the back corner. Pulled back shot for reference, check the carpet stapled to the wall there. If you see a trailer using carpet remnants to cover possible water damage run! Here you can see before I pulled the wood the long joists end on pan just before the angle iron. The rust on the open pan is not horrible I was able to use the wire cup on my angle grinder without going thru it. Here is a shot without the wood in place. You can see there is not much left of the belly pan in the corner. This is the worst corner.
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nccamper
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1962 Forester- 1956 Shasta
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Post by nccamper on Jun 1, 2016 19:17:02 GMT -8
The Belly Pan on a Shasta is new to me so I'm no expert but I would be mostly concerned about getting to the framing that needs replaced with the Pan in the way. As long as you can get every piece of rotten wood your plan seems like a good one. At some point you'll have to leave the pan alone or really pull the camper apart.
How do you know there isn't more rot sandwiched between the plywood and the pan? The curled up tiles always make me wonder how much water reached the floor.
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Post by vikx on Jun 1, 2016 21:03:20 GMT -8
Unfortunately, metal bellies cause severe Floor Rot. I've actually drilled 1/4" holes in the belly to allow for drainage if it should ever leak. That being said, replace all bad wood and then insulate with Styrofoam rather than fiberglass; it won't absorb water. I would not "trust" any wood in the belly, it can appear OK, but have pretty bad rot inside. Also, on our Loflytes and Land Commanders, we added an extra angle iron bar across the back for more support.
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nccamper
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1962 Forester- 1956 Shasta
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Post by nccamper on Jun 2, 2016 5:27:16 GMT -8
Also, on our Loflytes, we added an extra angle iron bar across the back for more support. What kind of welding gear do you use? I'm considering buying a MIG.
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Post by vintagebruce on Jun 2, 2016 5:59:08 GMT -8
IMO there are too many nicely designed vintage campers out there that have certainly managed to survive the test of time, at least to the point of being restorable 60+ years after they were made that do not have belly pans, for me to believe that repairing/replacing or keeping one while doing a serious rebuild would be a necessity. If Shastas were improved with the addition of the belly pan in this model, then why didn't most if not all future models incorporate them...answer, again imho...they were some kind of sales "fad" so at least one model could be touted by the Shasta sales staffers, as having a belly pan, "just like those expensive Airstreams". All they do is catch water when the camper inevitably starts to leak as well as add weight. I suggest you get rid of it asap.
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mckaylife
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66 Shasta Super 18
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Post by mckaylife on Jun 2, 2016 17:44:19 GMT -8
Thank you all for your replies. I am going to go with my plan of not worrying about replacing rusty areas and not relying on the pan for any structure. I don't think I will remove it entirely as the walls are resting on it now. I do think I will follow vikx advice and just drill some extra holes in the pan to allow for future water to drain before insulating.
I was planning on pulling all the plywood to get to all the floor joists for replacement. I originally cut out the one side to work on just that so I would not kill any remaining structure. I have a small yard and don't have room for the walls to be removed off of the trailer. I now have external supports and the roof skin off so I can pull all the ply at once and get the new floor down.
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Post by vikx on Jun 2, 2016 20:50:32 GMT -8
Also, on our Loflytes, we added an extra angle iron bar across the back for more support. What kind of welding gear do you use? I'm considering buying a MIG. Vicx uses a wire welder and sometimes a stick welder. (Buzz Box) He says Buzz is messier and uses either/or depending on accessibility. I'm sure others could give you more info...
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