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Post by katiebronleewe on May 15, 2016 5:51:45 GMT -8
We are trying to figure out how to wire our mobile scout. We will be starting fresh with all new systems-we removed the old. Our needs: we will be camping in national parks a lot of the time where there is no shore power. Solar doesn't seem like a good option because most camping spots will probably be in the woods. We need to power lights, a fantastic vent fan, and 3-way fridge. Will need to be able to charge cell phones. Would like to have an outlet to use when there is shore power.
A lot of you are saying not to use a converter, but in my mind it seems better for us to have all our lights 12volt, instead of some that are and some that aren't. Please explain what I'm not seeing.
Does an inverter allow you to use a battery to power a normal outlet to use something like a curling iron?
Also- we will put the battery on the tongue, but is there anything else I'm talking about that would need to be vented or should we be able to put it in a dinette bench with no vent to the outside?
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on May 15, 2016 19:33:14 GMT -8
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Post by danrhodes on May 15, 2016 19:39:25 GMT -8
That's a nice box...I have an extra hole from a water inlet I might fill with that vent (better cover maybe)
We're doing all 12v, with maybe one 110v outlet from outside power. We will use a simple converter and separate cheap maintainer.
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on May 15, 2016 19:42:54 GMT -8
We will use a simple converter and separate cheap maintainer. What converter do you have in mind? |
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Post by danrhodes on May 15, 2016 20:42:33 GMT -8
We will use a simple converter and separate cheap maintainer. What converter do you have in mind? I just have a 12v DC power supply from work. It's not current limited, so I probably wouldn't use it to charge a battery... Might just have a switch for now since it probably won't be used often... Important part is the wiring... The other stuff can come later as we figure out what works. |
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edog1973
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Post by edog1973 on May 16, 2016 10:48:57 GMT -8
I agree with you, having two sets of lights does not make sense. When I did our rebuild I used all 12 volt lights. I installed a Powermax 45 Amp converter to run the lights / fan and charge the battery. The fridge runs off propane when we don't have shore power. I used an Optima blue top battery and have been able to go 3 full days and did not notice any performance drop. I did install 110V receptacle, but we really only use them for the coffee maker. An inverter would allow you to run lower wattage devices, but something like a curling iron would probably pull to much power. I did not bother with one. I'm planning to install a couple of 12V USB style ports to charge our phones when shore power is not available. I'd also recommend a good fuse box. I particularly like the ones VTC sells. If you use a sealed battery you can install it inside under the dinette (one of reasons why I chose the Optima). Others will disagree and insist that even sealed batteries must be installed outside.  |
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Post by danrhodes on May 16, 2016 10:57:24 GMT -8
Great photo vikx. Do you have a sketch of this wiring setup? Seems a little different than the sketch I've seen here. |
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Post by vikx on May 16, 2016 11:53:25 GMT -8
That's Edog's work, but I'll comment: It is very similar to my diagram. The terminal bar is replacing the J box under the tongue, that's 7 way tow wiring. (I believe all batteries should be outside or in a vented box)
The converter replaces a simple maintainer and does a good job of charging/maintaining the battery, along with operating 12 volt fixtures when on shore power. It prevents battery drain when powered.
I do the systems the way I do is because of fascination of the original and perfectly functional set up. Most vintage trailers (pre 69) did not have a converter or battery. They relied on the vehicle Tail Marker line to power a single 12 volt light. In other words, the vehicle running lights had to be on to operate that light...
The separate 110 system makes a lot of sense to me. I like outlets in convenient places and enjoy lights that put out a little more than DC units. I always add a complete 12 volt system for the fun of it and to enjoy a Fantastic Fan.The $20 maintainer keeps the battery happy.
The above is no different than a system with a converter. While converters can seem to be "all in one", they are not. The 110 is still completely separate; it is simply built into the same box. Converters are able to provide constant power better than a small maintainer, they won't run out of juice the way a maintainer will. Say a person is unhappy with the maintainer: very easy to switch to a converter, the wiring is already in place. Converters cost around $150+.
I'm sure Edog will get back to you on his system. I particularly admire the clean and neat work and attention to detail. Wiring should always be so.
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Post by danrhodes on May 16, 2016 12:40:40 GMT -8
That's Edogs's work, but I'll comment: It is very similar to my diagram. The terminal bar is replacing the J box under the tongue, that's 7 way tow wiring. (I believe all batteries should be outside or in a vented box) The converter replaces a simple maintainer and does a good job of charging/maintaining the battery, along with operating 12 volt fixtures when on shore power. It prevents battery drain when powered. I do the systems the way I do is because of fascination of the original and perfectly functional set up. Most vintage trailers (pre 69) did not have a converter or battery. They relied on the vehicle Tail Marker line to power a single 12 volt light. In other words, the vehicle running lights had to be on to operate that light... The separate 110 system makes a lot of sense to me. I like outlets in convenient places and enjoy lights that put out a little more than DC units. I always add a complete 12 volt system for the fun of it and to enjoy a Fantastic Fan.The $20 maintainer keeps the battery happy. The above is no different than a system with a converter. While converters can seem to be "all in one", they are not. The 110 is still completely separate; it is simply built into the same box. Converters are able to provide constant power better than a small maintainer, they won't run out of juice the way a maintainer will. Say a person is unhappy with the maintainer: very easy to switch to a converter, the wiring is already in place. Converters cost around $150+. I'm sure Edog will get back to you on his system. I particularly admire the clean and neat work and attention to detail. Wiring should always be so. Ooops...sorry...that's the hazard of VTTing on mobile while I should be in a meeting. |
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edog1973
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Post by edog1973 on May 16, 2016 13:28:22 GMT -8
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Post by vikx on May 16, 2016 19:52:51 GMT -8
Thanks Edog! I confused you with Dan, too.
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