flinttim
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Post by flinttim on Mar 12, 2016 12:48:29 GMT -8
I have had for the last several years an old Starcraft (21'). I keep it on our farm as a deer hunting abode for my grandson and I . It has 120volt service with a converter to 12 volts (the lights and water pump etc). Where the camper has been there is no 120 volt service so we have been using it by connecting a deep cycle battery for lights. The fridge runs off gas.Well we have now 120 volt service up near the camper. I plugged it in today and the 120 outlets all work as well the 120 side of the fridge. I checked all the 120 outlets with a multi meter and of course they read "120". A check of DC volts on the two ends I normally hook to the battery showed the converter feeding 13 volts DC. None of the 12 volt lights work, BUT I did not take the deep cycle battery with me. Does this system require a battery to be hooked up before the 12 volt stuff works ? Is there a work around to leave the battery out of the equation (let the converter feed the lights without a battery )? If I must use a battery and since the converter is old would I be better off taking the converter out, hooking the 12 volt wiring to the battery and just plugging in a battery tender to keep the battery charged ? If the old converters are OK to use I'll just stick with the one I have . But I guess for now the big question is.......do I need to hook a battery up to get the 12 volt lights to work ?
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Post by vikx on Mar 12, 2016 22:18:04 GMT -8
What year is the Starcraft?
The lights should work without a battery. However, most converters use the battery as a "buffer" for the 12 volt system. Keeps the power steady. I'm guessing something is not connected properly in the Starcraft. Curious if something was disconnected to get the lights to work? There should be fuses at the converter; one will be for most of the lights.
The problem with older converters is that they tend to overcharge a battery. Not a big deal if the trailer is not powered all the time, but the converter will cook the battery if left charging too long. I suggest a higher end replacement if you want to use the converter. A battery maintainer will work, but only when connected to a battery. (No output if it doesn't sense a battery) The maintainer will easily keep up with a few lights, but will not power a fan or anything with a motor.
Hope this helps. I'll be moving this to our 12 volt systems section.
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flinttim
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Post by flinttim on Mar 13, 2016 3:39:17 GMT -8
It's a 72 model.I'll take the battery with me the next trip. The lights worked fine the last time we used the battery hooked up. I'll track it back from there. I think I may know what happened. Just inside the front door there is a toggle switch mounted in a bracket. Obviously put there by a PO. I've always wondered what it was for. Yesterday just before I hooked the camper up to 120volts I noticed that switch was thrown "ON". Just in case it was 120volts and to something the PO had cobbed together, I flipped it "OFF" before powering up the AC volts. I'll bet anything someone put that there to turn the lights on from the door without groping around in a dark camper. Back to the converter. I'm happy everything on the 120 side of the camper works and that there is 12+ volts DC running out to the battery terminals. That takes a big load off the mind. The fridge even runs on 120 v too. About the converter boiling a battery out (if I were to use a battery), we would under almost all circumstances use the camper 10 days max at a time a couple or three times per year. The rest of the time maybe a day or two. Would the converter be OK for this ?
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cowcharge
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Post by cowcharge on Mar 14, 2016 9:11:15 GMT -8
If it's not the door switch, perhaps the 12v isn't working because the missing battery somehow breaks the circuit from the converter to the lights? Unlikely, but who knows how PO's re-wire things.
Dunno 'bout your old one, but modern converters are for people always on a hookup. They're not good battery chargers, even the "good", multi-stage ones like Progressive Dynamics. They don't put out high enough voltage (for traditional "wet" batteries, anyway), and they don't charge for long enough. Trojan and Deka both say their wet batteries need 14.8v to properly charge. Converters mostly put out about 13.6v, and they will never get you to full charge unless they're plugged in all the time because they also taper off the amps way too soon, and essentially become low-voltage trickle chargers. But since you'll always be on shore power when you're camping, battery charging isn't a big worry here because it won't be discharging while you're camping. It's more about battery lifespan in this situation.
Will the camper be plugged in with battery installed all the time? If not plugged in, and the battery is left aboard, it will probably become discharged between trips, which will really only be a problem in that it will shorten the life of the battery, especially if it is discharged and subjected to freezing weather.
If it is plugged in all year, then eventual overcharging and water loss is the thing to worry about. If your battery is a standard "wet" type, keep a jug of distilled water handy to keep it topped off. And to keep the battery healthy, buy a $5 hydrometer at NAPA, that's the only way to truly know your state of charge, and to know if you're getting a bad cell. Will you be checking on the camper/battery in between uses?
If you're using an expensive AGM or sealed battery, I'd take it home with me after every trip. You can't check or replace the water in those things, or even check the charge with a hydrometer. Leaving it in the hands of an old converter is risky and wouldn't be my choice (neither would using AGMs, but some people like them, especially battery salesmen, but that's another discussion).
If you're going to take the battery home after every trip, just keep it on a maintainer at home and don't worry about it in the camper. Ten days on a converter while you're camping won't run you out of water unless it's seriously malfunctioning and overcharging the hell out of it. Just pop the caps and look at the water after a few days and top it off if needed.
Again, since you're not depending on battery power to camp, all of this is just to keep your battery healthy. If you don't mind replacing it every year or two, it doesn't really matter. A "dead" battery that won't take a charge will probably still function as a buffer for the converter.
HandyBob's blog is the best thing I ever read about battery charging. It's loooong, but as thorough an explanation as you'll find. It's geared towards solar but includes parts about chargers and converters as well.
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flinttim
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Post by flinttim on Mar 14, 2016 16:58:27 GMT -8
Well, I'm hoping the converter will run the 12 v lights without a battery and it won't be an issue. The camper will be sitting in one place all the time (weekend getaway) and not having to haul a battery back and forth would be great.The only thing that has changed from the last time I ran the lights (on battery) is that switch I flipped. Will find out Friday when I go over there again.
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Post by vikx on Mar 14, 2016 20:07:08 GMT -8
I think everything should work without a battery with a 1972 Converter. If not, it will overcharge your battery if left charging for 10 days. You can install a disconnect at the battery to prevent that. (power on a short time every day)
Good luck and let us know what you discover.
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