mel
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Post by mel on Mar 2, 2016 12:25:30 GMT -8
What is every ones favorite place to buy butyl/putty tape and why? amazon? VTS? I see there are different colors, why? What sizes are your favorite for for what areas of your trailer? example: 1" for windows. 1/2 for whatever.... ect. Do you use gutter seal anywhere? where and why? What type of screws do you use on the jrail/awning rail and windows? and why? Do I need to do anything to roof seams to seal? Any other sealing questions or methods I didnt mention? i would love to know
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cowcharge
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Post by cowcharge on Mar 2, 2016 13:07:43 GMT -8
Forgive me, but it's my pet peeve that everyone calls "putty tape" "butyl tape". Putty tape is not made from butyl rubber, like that obnoxiously sticky black stuff they attach windshields with. Putty tape is simple grey mastic putty, it doesn't stick to itself, and there's probably not much difference between brands. I will NEVER buy a camper that has any butyl tape on it, it's a royal PITA to remove. You think silicone's bad...
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mel
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Post by mel on Mar 2, 2016 13:16:09 GMT -8
Forgive me, but it's my pet peeve that everyone calls "putty tape" "butyl tape". Putty tape is not made from butyl rubber, like that obnoxiously sticky black stuff they attach windshields with. Putty tape is simple grey mastic putty, it doesn't stick to itself, and there's probably not much difference between brands. I will NEVER buy a camper that has any butyl tape on it, it's a royal PITA to remove. You think silicone's bad... Thanks, didn't realize there was a difference.
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cowcharge
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Post by cowcharge on Mar 2, 2016 13:25:06 GMT -8
LOL everyone calls it butyl tape.
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spoma
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Post by spoma on Mar 2, 2016 16:25:06 GMT -8
so is it not butyl tape that i should be buying to seal up the trailer? from the sounds of this, it sounds like i should be shopping for putty tape. thanks.
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Mar 2, 2016 19:25:29 GMT -8
Some think butyl tape holds up better over time. I've taken it off a 50 year old camper and it was still soft. The fact that it is so sticky is a plus and a minus. I like putty tape better because it's easier to work with but I used butyl tape on my first camper a few years ago and there hasn't been a drop of water leaking in.
Have I confused you enough?
I've bought from ebay, Amazon and VTS. I thought Ebay had a little better price on 5 rolls. Amazon delivers in two days with Prime, Ebay took two weeks. VTS seemed very fresh but they charge for shipping which makes them the most expensive.
I like the 1" tape over the 3/4". It covers completely and leaves enough hanging over the make it easy to trim. Others may disagree.
I trim using a plastic paint scraper you can buy for a dollar or two. It isn't as rough on the paint as metal or a sheet rock knife.
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Post by vikx on Mar 2, 2016 22:21:52 GMT -8
Screw Type: depends on what was original to the trailer. Yours probably had pan head Phillips, 6 x 3/4 or 1. Newer trailers have hex heads, 8 x 1. I NEVER increase the size of the screws. If they are spinning in place or rusted out, the edge wood needs to be repaired/replaced. If you increase the screw length, there's a possibility of poking a wire. Some like stainless screws but they can be dicey to drive. One slip and the head is ruined.
OSI Gutter Seal is very clear. It is used to seal staples, nicks and dings. I sometimes use aluminum colored gutter seal (different brand) just to be able to see what needs to be sealed...
I use a product called Proflex for the roof seams. (not caulk, it's paint on) However, if the roof needs to be inspected very carefully before re-attachment for pin holes, splits, bad seams, etc. Sticky tape on the underside of the seams goes a lot farther than any top side sealant. Basically, Proflex is extra insurance before painting the roof. It will stick to anything but silicone.
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Mar 3, 2016 6:39:16 GMT -8
I use a product called Proflex for the roof seams. Do you think Proflex is better than Dicor?
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Post by vikx on Mar 3, 2016 12:18:12 GMT -8
Proflex and Dicor are very different products.
Dicor self leveling Lap Sealant is ideal for NEW roof protrusion installs. It is self leveling and can be touched up because it sticks to itself. Dicor tends to develop a few bubbles and/or splits after a few months, so it needs to be inspected often. If repairs are needed, Dicor can be removed (it's a pain, but do-able). I have not had good luck trying to re-seal problem areas with Dicor; it does best with new installations.
Proflex is also self leveling but is permanent when applied to properly cleaned metal. Repairs are very difficult, so never use Proflex on items that may need repairs in the future. (roof vents, chimneys, tank vents, etc.) It takes at least two coats of Proflex to form a good seal because of the self leveling characteristics. You will see little pockets when dry (takes several hours). Scoop the product as you paint to insure all is completely covered. It's thick, gooey and paintable.
Roof Seams: Many times, the roof metal is OK but the seams can have gaps and "iffy" looking areas. Previous coated roofs also can be very vulnerable at the seams. (water creeping under the coating settles in low areas) After a thorough and complete cleaning, Proflex will seal roof seams, dips and dings in the roof. All loose debris and old coating should be removed where it is applied, allowing Proflex to stick to clean metal. For instance, about 6" should be clean at a seam, 3" on either side. The first coat of Proflex would be on the seam and extend about 1" on the sides. The next coat(s) overlaps the first and so on. Finally, paint will even the look. I recently rolled a roof and was very pleased with the results and look. The roof had an embossed pattern, so roll marks did not show. Rustoleum Gloss White is tough and shiny.
Buying new roof metal for every trailer is an expensive option that not all of us can afford. If I have a decent roof to work with, I try to save it. Most of them will get Proflex on the seams/flaws and are painted. I do not use Proflex on my canned hams! Mid 60s trailers have flatter roofs; sealants don't show. We are currently doing a "test" of Proflex on a 65 Loliner. It has a circle of screw holes where an old antenna was installed. The underside was taped with weatherproofing sticky tape before sealing. I thought about a patch with putty up top but Proflex looked so good, we left it. If it fails, I will be posting. So far, so good.
Neither of the above products should be used anywhere but the roof, as they will run down siding.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Mar 3, 2016 17:51:24 GMT -8
None of the 4 roof vents in this 66 Super Shasta leaked yet they were all goooped to beat all heck. And they used everything from silicone to roof tar... The goop is not what prevented the leaks. Proper crowning and installation with putty tape was the final barriers and they worked. I don't know why the PO went to all the trouble with the goop. It was fun to remove too. One damaged place in a seam leaked and that was the only leak I found in the entire roof.
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Mar 3, 2016 20:06:13 GMT -8
Goop is sort of fun putting on. Makes you feel safe from the elements. Like Duck and Cover against an A bomb .
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Post by wisconsinjoe on Mar 13, 2016 9:27:11 GMT -8
I replaced every exterior screw on my camper, and there were many of them because the horizontal seams of the aluminum were overlapped, putty taped, and then screwed every 4 inches. I spent about $200 on square head screws from McFeelys online in the three different sizes I needed. I always pre-drill to avoid framing splits and stripping out the relatively soft screws.
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Hamlet
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Post by Hamlet on Mar 13, 2016 18:24:54 GMT -8
Goop is sort of fun putting on. Makes you feel safe from the elements. Like Duck and Cover against an A bomb . I remember those drills in school. I was a kid so just went along with them, but I wonder if any of my teachers ever reflected on the complete futility of the exercise.
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TheShastaProject
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Post by TheShastaProject on Apr 30, 2016 15:28:49 GMT -8
Hey Vikx,
Is the Proflex you mentioned Geocel Proflex RV Flexible Brushable Sealant, Clear, 1qt 13-0656 23200V? I am so close to putting the old girl back together that I am getting my shopping list together and do not want to get the wrong stuff.
Thanks, Jennifer
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Post by vikx on Apr 30, 2016 21:03:44 GMT -8
Yes, Jennifer. It's goopy and self leveling, so be sure to buy some throw away brushes. First coat on the cleanest metal you can get (yeah, picking helps). Sort of "scoop" it into grooves and seams. After dry, you should be able to see places that need more. The 2nd coat will make an almost complete seal. Eyeball everything really closely; a third coat is extra insurance.
Note: Proflex brushable is not suitable anywhere but the roof. It is very drippy, if you get my drift...
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