dulcimerbob
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Post by dulcimerbob on Feb 11, 2016 16:48:00 GMT -8
Anyone knpw the model of this Winnie ? I think it is a 65 . Want to find some interior pics for redo. Thanks ![]() ![]() |
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dulcimerbob
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Post by dulcimerbob on Feb 11, 2016 16:48:59 GMT -8
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nccamper
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1962 Forester- 1956 Shasta
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Post by nccamper on Feb 11, 2016 17:55:15 GMT -8
Welcome! The year does seem about mid 60s. I've never owned one of these but I'm sure somebody more knowledgeable will chime in. ![]() ![]() |
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Post by trailertrasher on Feb 11, 2016 18:12:14 GMT -8
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dulcimerbob
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Post by dulcimerbob on Feb 12, 2016 5:41:31 GMT -8
I did go to the site but there was nothing there for my trailer. Thanks
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Hamlet
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Post by Hamlet on Feb 12, 2016 9:31:42 GMT -8
Just a thought... Most trailers of the same size had almost identical layouts. You don't say whether the trailer is completely gutted and you need all the cabinetry, bed, table, etc, or just things like fixtures, etc. You may be able to start with a basic table in front, side kitchen, rear bed or gaucho layout and go from there. Good luck!
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dulcimerbob
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Post by dulcimerbob on Feb 12, 2016 9:46:42 GMT -8
Everything is there . I have had it a few years and have been using it. I wanted to see some pics to see what the interior looked like for a redo. I will try some other brands and get some ideas . Thanks ton all.
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Ten
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70 Shasta 16SC + 1964 Airflyte
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Post by Ten on Feb 12, 2016 10:40:02 GMT -8
Everything is there . I have had it a few years and have been using it. I wanted to see some pics to see what the interior looked like for a redo. I will try some other brands and get some ideas . Thanks ton all. Good idea. You will find as you are looking around that, as was mentioned, many of the same sizes had similar layouts. There really is a limited number of ways you can lay out a pattern within any given space, and keep it lightweight enough to travel as well as being functional. Even though there may not be lots of information available for the Winnie-brand specifically, you will also find that many brands were built with similar construction methods, as well as mostly the same appliances and fixtures. This follows much in the footsteps of the logic that there are only so many layouts... Information on the pieces that make up the whole may be easier to find, and like putting a puzzle together, will make sense of the big picture when you have all those pieces. This seems like it is a common size amongst trailers ini the same era, so you should find many examples of similar trailers that have been made-over. |
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dulcimerbob
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Post by dulcimerbob on Feb 12, 2016 13:22:04 GMT -8
I have to address a few leaks anyway before I can go forward. Maybe a new roof. The old one really seeps more than leaks but it is covered on layers of sealer. Any ideas how to get that stuff off ?
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Feb 12, 2016 15:31:27 GMT -8
Any ideas how to get that stuff off ? I tried every solvent I could find for sealer around the vent on my latest project. From Mineral spirits to paint thinner to WD40 to gasoline. It was a very small area yet it was very slow going. For an entire roof I would get new skin. Using that much solvent would not be fun. |
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Hamlet
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Post by Hamlet on Feb 12, 2016 16:02:42 GMT -8
I have to address a few leaks anyway before I can go forward. Maybe a new roof. The old one really seeps more than leaks but it is covered on layers of sealer. Any ideas how to get that stuff off ? In our opinion, removing layers of sealer is the only appropriate use for small nuclear devices. ANd it certainly couldn't produce more toxic waste that any remover does!  |
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Post by vintagebruce on Feb 12, 2016 19:01:49 GMT -8
I do not Pin so I can't get into Pinterest threads, but if you can open this one, maybe you could get some leads on Winnie interiors. |
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Post by vikx on Feb 12, 2016 20:36:08 GMT -8
I agree on the new roof. The layers tend to rot the aluminum over time. Water creeps in and sits under the coatings...
I have saved roofs that were coated, but they weren't leaking or seeping. I scraped each seam free of silver slop, snow sh*t and silicone, then sealed with Proflex paint on sealant. (not the caulk-different product) Once the loose debris is picked off the rest of the roof, it can be painted to even the look.
With a seeping roof, I'm guessing you have pinholes. It's just way too much time and work to try and save something like it. In fact, with pinholes, it will never seal, no matter the product.
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