prettywoman0172
Active Member
Posts: 207 
Likes: 35
1967 Frolic ,
Currently Offline
|
Post by prettywoman0172 on Jan 13, 2016 6:27:37 GMT -8
Good morning,
i tried searching the the forum for information on this with no luck. I'm trying to find out information about the appliances in my Frolic and have had no luck with the heater or the fridge. The heater says Peerless on it and the fridge says Atlas. I have no idea if either of them works and no idea even how to try them. My trailer has no propane tanks on it and I think the place where they connect in the front has been damaged anyway. I'll update my Flickr with pics of the appliances and 'broken' propane connections. Also - the toilet. It is one of those pretty common plane foot flush toilets that sits on top of the tank with an elevated bathroom floor - where would I look for info? Thanks.
Ann
|
|
nccamper
Administrator 
Posts: 7,744 
Likes: 2,871
1962 Forester- 1956 Shasta
Currently Offline
|
Post by nccamper on Jan 13, 2016 7:13:18 GMT -8
Give Photobucket a try. It makes linking photos to the post very easy.
vintagetrailertalk.freeforums.net/thread/33/tutorial-posting-photos-using-photobucket
I think it's much easier than Flickr.
Also, include a photo of the damaged gas line hookup for opinions on fixing it.
|
|
Ten
3K Member
Posts: 3,432
Likes: 1,467
70 Shasta 16SC + 1964 Airflyte
Currently Offline
|
Post by Ten on Jan 13, 2016 8:33:54 GMT -8
Photos are always very helpful, but I am going to start here:
I say this without knowing for sure that your concerns do not involve the iron or copper pipe.
Propane is absolutely nothing to mess with. Unless there are absolute indications that the regulator and all hoses have already been replaced, then replace them. A dual hookup with an automatic regulator may cost in the vicinity of $75, and the new hose from the regulator to the iron (or copper) piping of the trailer body may be another $20. This is probably the wisest hundred bucks you can spend (and may not even cost that much depending on other factors). Old regulators can fail at any time, as can old rubber hoses. Further, once the tanks are hooked up and functional, be sure to check any and all connections within the system for leaks.
|
|
prettywoman0172
Active Member
Posts: 207
Likes: 35
1967 Frolic ,
Currently Offline
|
Post by prettywoman0172 on Jan 13, 2016 12:46:30 GMT -8
Photos are always very helpful, but I am going to start here: I say this without knowing for sure that your concerns do not involve the iron or copper pipe. Propane is absolutely nothing to mess with. Unless there are absolute indications that the regulator and all hoses have already been replaced, then replace them. A dual hookup with an automatic regulator may cost in the vicinity of $75, and the new hose from the regulator to the iron (or copper) piping of the trailer body may be another $20. This is probably the wisest hundred bucks you can spend (and may not even cost that much depending on other factors). Old regulators can fail at any time, as can old rubber hoses. Further, once the tanks are hooked up and functional, be sure to check any and all connections within the system for leaks. I I appreciate this info. I don't even have tanks yet, and don't plan to for a while. Im just looking at things and trying to learn as much as I can right now by reading and then just looking at my trailer. I've never done this kind of thi before and it is exciting to read about the plumbing and then go look in the trailer and see that that is exactly how it is rigged up. I haven't touched anything yet and don't plan to for a while. Just at the info gathering stage right now. I would like to know how to test the stove and fridge OUTSIDE of the trailer, though. edited for typos  ? |
|
Ten
3K Member
Posts: 3,432
Likes: 1,467
70 Shasta 16SC + 1964 Airflyte
Currently Offline
|
Post by Ten on Jan 13, 2016 14:56:33 GMT -8
That is exactly the best way to go about this... one bite at a time.  |
|
Ten
3K Member
Posts: 3,432
Likes: 1,467
70 Shasta 16SC + 1964 Airflyte
Currently Offline
|
Post by Ten on Jan 13, 2016 15:34:25 GMT -8
There are a couple ways to test outside the trailer. And some of them are the right way, and then there is what I did. I found an old gas grill on the curb that someone was disposing of, and cut off the regulator near the burner control. I had a piece of copper tubing that fed an old appliance in one of the campers. Ii cut the copper off on one end, leaving the flare nut and flare on the end that had attached to the appliance. Generally, they will all be the same size flare, so it is AL-most universal. The rubber fit tightly over the copper, and a couple hose clamps later, I can hook directly to the appliance from the 20-LB tank.......  The appliances are simply anchored inside the trailer, usually with screws, and some of those are always hidden, just to drive you nuts. Once the appliance is loose from its cabinet and its fuel (electric, or propane) it can usually be removed from the trailer. One word of advice though, some of the refrigerators in older trailers are too big for the door frame. They would have been placed inside through a window frame or before the door framing was in place. Measure first. I've tested most of my propane appliances outside.   |
|
?