kimberwarden
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17' 64 Oasis
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Post by kimberwarden on Sept 17, 2015 13:09:28 GMT -8
Now that I'm about to hang my new skin, I'm second guessing myself. To insulate my trailer, I used 1 1/2" foam board and then used the kind of insulation that looks like 1/4" thick bubble wrap with foil on both sides as a vapor barrier. The ceiling is 4" of pink fiberglass covered by a thin sheet of foam underlayment material. (Hopefully it's the same stuff Mobiltec recommended in his videos.)
Is this too much? I think I read somewhere on here that other folks have done similar, but now I can't find those threads. I don't have to worry about adding bulk to the trailer since the metal is new, but I don't want to cause problems by overinsulating. On the other hand, I want to insulate as much as possible because we camp a lot in the winter.
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diymom
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enthralled with my 1969 Terry, problem is it keeps me awake at night planning
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1969 terry 18'
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Post by diymom on Sept 17, 2015 13:30:22 GMT -8
Sounds like you have done a good job, I guess the only thing I would suggest is to pay attention to any gaps that may not be filled around the floor and windows and do that smart flashing thing that someone on here did before you install Windows and access panels etc, use that nashua waterproof foil tape and put it around the wood framing so it sticks out of the skin and overlaps the birch inside when you do install it. That way leaks aren't channeled into the structure and you can seal out drafts between the skin and structure. I am totally doing it when I reseal my Windows!
Oh and consider weatherstripping your cargo hatches, maybe not around the aluminum frame but possibly around the inside of the opening, overlapping the edge. I had many a cool draft wafting up from our ill fitting cargo doors and around my windows.
Think like those specialists who improve the efficiency of your households cooling and heating...they seal tiny cracks, wrap ventilation and weatherproof around doors etc...then they fill your walls with more insulation which you have covered.
I am going with bat insulation and I'm going to try to cut it exactly to size and the use that waterproof shield to flash around the window openings. IT's never very cold here and we have a heater in our trailer too.
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mountainsounds
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1957 Rainbow & 1955 Starfire
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Post by mountainsounds on Sept 17, 2015 13:38:11 GMT -8
We added too much fiberglass to the top and had to remove some-too much puff factor will make attaching the skin difficult. The roof skin needs to be fairly flat on the top edge, sort of hard to explain. Larry?
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kimberwarden
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17' 64 Oasis
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Post by kimberwarden on Sept 17, 2015 14:17:27 GMT -8
But you don't think I've got too MUCH insulation? I'm worried about making it too difficult for the trailer to breathe, which leads to the growth of yucky things in collected condensation. Or something like that. Vikx once described it to me as "soup" when describing to me why metal belly pans are bad. Ick. I confess I don't understand the physics of moist air movement very well...what it can move through and what it can't...when waterproof is good and when it isn't. I just know I'm not supposed to seal my trailer up TOO tight, but I don't know exactly what that means and how it relates to insulation.
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nccamper
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1962 Forester- 1956 Shasta
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Post by nccamper on Sept 17, 2015 19:22:15 GMT -8
The windows leak a little air, the vent for a fridge leaks air, the door leaks air, etc.
When we sleep we leave the roof vent cracked open. We've never had issues with air flow.
If we don't have the vent open a little we get condensation. Not a good thing.
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Post by vikx on Sept 19, 2015 21:48:46 GMT -8
I had too much puff factor in one of my builds. Keep from padding the edges too thick. The middle can take a little more poof than the edges. You want them level with the side skins.
Hope I explained that well enough. Hard to do.
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Post by vintagebruce on Sept 20, 2015 6:50:51 GMT -8
If you have spells of weather that you feel might be causing humidity build-up inside your basically "closed up" camper, you could always consider turning on a small portable dehumidifier during those "spells". If I discover condensation forming on the windows inside, I would consider running a dehumidifier until I check back and no longer see signs of inside condensation. Might be for just a couple hours in the morning in many cases.
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diymom
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enthralled with my 1969 Terry, problem is it keeps me awake at night planning
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1969 terry 18'
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Post by diymom on Sept 20, 2015 11:02:24 GMT -8
A few buckets of good marine dehumidifier placed in key places should cut down the moisture without the need to hook up your trailer.
Our last trailer was very drafty so we never had to do anything. Your Windows probably won't be airtight no matter what you do. We also like to leave the top vent open a bit because we like some of the heat to escape on really hot days.
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