windborn
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1957 Sportcraft 15
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Post by windborn on Sept 2, 2015 10:54:50 GMT -8
I'm just getting started with my rebuild and still partly in the planning phase. After taking off some aluminum last weekend I discovered that my side walls are 1/2in plywood with no framing.  So basically this means that the front, back, and ceiling panels plus the curbing just get nailed into the edges of the plywood walls. Is this right or am I missing something? Is there a better way to do it or should I stick with the way it was originally done? (I'll most likely do the latter since this thing's been around longer than my parents, but I thought I'd see what the experts have to say.) |
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nccamper
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1962 Forester- 1956 Shasta
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Post by nccamper on Sept 2, 2015 15:38:59 GMT -8
Plywood walls seem to come with unique issues when they get wet.
I'm a fan of the heavier walls which are basically ripped 2x4s. Our Shasta had the most cobbled together 1x2 framing imaginable and it lasted 52 years.
Are you reusing the skin? If yes, you may have no choice but plywood if you want the skin to fit.
With that said, I have never heard of somebody switching the type of framing. Others with more experience may chime in.
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kirkadie
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'69 Serro Scotty Hilander
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Post by kirkadie on Sept 2, 2015 18:57:09 GMT -8
If I had it to do over, I would have added 1xs inside once I had the new 1/2" ply in place (so original skin would still fit. Originally the 1X3 cross pieces were stapled into the edges of the ply. I'm using screws, but it's tricky to hit the ply edges dead center, cause if I miss I can get a bubble on the inside (show) face. I figure losing 1 1/2" of inside width wouldn't kill me and it all would have been so much easier.
I did seal the plywood inside and out with primer and paint, which was not originally done, so might put off rot better than original, but WTHeck, it lasted over 40 years as it was.
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davek
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Post by davek on Sept 2, 2015 19:37:43 GMT -8
If you repair all the rot and get the corner seams all tightened back up plywood should be fine. I am rebuilding a plywood trailer and am not losing any sleep over the construction. That being said if you want to build up standard framed walls with a little planning you can reuse your skins.
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windborn
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1957 Sportcraft 15
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Post by windborn on Sept 2, 2015 19:48:12 GMT -8
nccamper: I do plan on reusing my skin since it's a nice heavy aluminum. I don't want to change too many things since this is my first time around, and I've grown to love their grimyness  kirkadie: Thinking about missing the center of the edges is exactly what got me saying, "hmmm." But you're right that it's lasted so long so maybe we're overthinking this? Were you imagining adding the 1x framing, and then adding another thin wall? I probably wouldn't go that far, but it is an interesting idea. Also a very good idea to seal the plywood like crazy -- thanks. |
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Post by vikx on Sept 2, 2015 21:55:54 GMT -8
Lovely old skin, Windborn. Good on ya.
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kirkadie
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'69 Serro Scotty Hilander
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Post by kirkadie on Sept 3, 2015 5:32:52 GMT -8
windborn, I was thinking about doing the whole interior in birch w/shellac, but the 1/2" ply I found for the walls was nice AC interior/exterior domestic 5 ply for $31 a sheet, and I was both in a hurry and being true to my Scottish heritage (read cheap), so I chose to paint the insides. I was also not yet aware of the trickiness of reassembly.
Maybe next time, eh.
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windborn
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1957 Sportcraft 15
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Post by windborn on Sept 3, 2015 17:40:35 GMT -8
I'm also pretty cheap, and already planned on painting the side walls white -- the previous owner painted all the cabinetry white, and I don't plan on stripping that -- so I'll probably just go a similar route that you did. Thanks for helping me think it through! I actually like the white wall/birch ceiling combination. I've had it in my head for months and was pleased to see it looking nice in your trailer.
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