davek
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Post by davek on Sept 1, 2015 20:07:10 GMT -8
Looking for tips on getting the dents and sag out of my roof skin. Anyone have ideas for building framing that would support or even give the roof a slight concave shape to keep the water flowing off? Thanks for any ideas.
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Sept 2, 2015 4:14:42 GMT -8
From what I can see it looks like your framing (side to side) has sagged. Which means taking the skin off the roof. I've owned three campers and has the same problem on each one. Over time the snow especially causes the thin 3/4" pine to sag. But time itself causes all things to sag. On our Compact I added extra framing to keep it straight. I've heard of some people using oak or other hard wood instead of pine. Although nothing will stop it from sagging if two feet of snow sit on it this winter.
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davek
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Post by davek on Sept 2, 2015 19:29:23 GMT -8
The roof frame is ply with a 3/8" cap strips along the edge and insulation in the center. I think 90% of the skin sag is taken up in the insulation. Thinking of making bows that run across the play that are 3/4" in the center and taper to 3/8" to blend in with the cap stip. I assume having the rood convex will help keep the water from finding a place to leak.
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Sept 3, 2015 3:56:07 GMT -8
I wonder if increasing the bows will change how the roof skin fits? You might be swapping one problem for another.
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kirkadie
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Post by kirkadie on Sept 3, 2015 5:36:32 GMT -8
A carpet padded "T" bar or two snugged up inside will help with snow load.
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davek
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Post by davek on Sept 5, 2015 6:24:31 GMT -8
I wonder if increasing the bows will change how the roof skin fits? You might be swapping one problem for another. I am worried that might be the case. One of the main reasons I started this thread.
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davek
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Post by davek on Sept 5, 2015 6:30:33 GMT -8
A carpet padded "T" bar or two snugged up inside will help with snow load. What is a "padded "T" bar? I have been thinking of something like this. Possibly a 3/8" square tube running side to side to brace the roof skin and try to take some of the sag from the skin before putting it back on.
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kirkadie
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Post by kirkadie on Sept 5, 2015 6:47:32 GMT -8
A 2X4 the height of your trailer's inside, including a 2'cross piece of 2X(looks like a T when assembled) with a piece of scrap carpet affixed to the cross piece so it doesn't scratch the ceiling. I use a 12" square of plywood on the floor beneath the T bar so I don't dent the flooring. Measure your wall height floor to ceiling where the sag seems to be (measure at the wall, not at the sag)and that's the height you want the bar, which will include the cross piece, plus padding, plus floor protection. I install mine by first setting the top bar where I want it on the ceiling and then pushing the bottom of the bar along the ply on the floor (don't want to scratch the shellac) until it's in place. I use mine for support when I'm working on the roof. Did that make sense?
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davek
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Post by davek on Sept 5, 2015 6:57:29 GMT -8
A 2X4 the height of your trailer's inside, including a 2'cross piece of 2X(looks like a T when assembled) with a piece of scrap carpet affixed to the cross piece so it doesn't scratch the ceiling. I use a 12" square of plywood on the floor beneath the T bar so I don't dent the flooring. Measure your wall height floor to ceiling where the sag seems to be (measure at the wall, not at the sag)and that's the height you want the bar, which will include the cross piece, plus padding, plus floor protection. I install mine by first setting the top bar where I want it on the ceiling and then pushing the bottom of the bar along the ply on the floor (don't want to scratch the shellac) until it's in place. I use mine for support when I'm working on the roof. Did that make sense? Yes that makes sense. 90% the sag is just squishing the insulation and not in the framing. I think I just need to flatten the skin and add a few cross braces (skin is only held up around the edges and the center floats on insulation). Going to get the skin off over the 3 day weekend and hopfully make some progress. Thanks for the input
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kirkadie
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Post by kirkadie on Sept 5, 2015 8:56:15 GMT -8
You might try using foam insulation if what you have now is spun glass stuff. The big boxes sell it in 4X8 sheets, several thicknesses, easy to cut, and some here say it insulates better too. It won't crush easily.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Sept 12, 2015 7:18:18 GMT -8
Looking for tips on getting the dents and sag out of my roof skin. Anyone have ideas for building framing that would support or even give the roof a slight concave shape to keep the water flowing off? Thanks for any ideas. I think what you meant was a slight conVEX shape to keep the water rolling off. You can't do that really as it will cause buckling in the metal when you go to refasten it. The closest we get to that idea is to put a collar over the roof vent to prevent puddling at the vent. Usually no more than half inch in height. This trailer probably needs new framing and new metal on the roof. Then if you live in a snow area it needs winterization for snow loads. The carpet padded T method that was described is how you do that. More on that in the "WINTER" section of this forum.
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