Ten
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70 Shasta 16SC + 1964 Airflyte
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Post by Ten on Aug 15, 2015 7:29:38 GMT -8
You don't see too many polished jalousies.... Nice Vikx... Thanks very much. I can't take credit, other half is very clever with aluminum... Teach us some tricks...I polished out all the aluminum on the SC, and now I can't sleep on my right side. |
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Post by vikx on Aug 15, 2015 10:45:13 GMT -8
Don't know many tricks, just elbow grease. Ah, ye olde shoulder pain....
We have a Foredom flexible shaft wood carver than is handy to polish narrow pieces, like next to the glass. It won't take heavy duty polishing all day but is a good unit; needs to cool down periodically. The Foredom hangs above the work space. A Dremal or similar will work, but takes a lot longer.
Jalousie Window method:
1. Clean with Wheel Cleaner
2. Straighten dings and sand with 320, then very fine steel wool to get rid of scratches.
3. Use a rag buffing wheel with roughing compound (rouge) to remove fine scratches, then polishing compound
4. Wipe with paint thinner to remove excess compound, then use a good quality liquid wax.
5. Final buff with soft cloth
Eyebrow method: (mirror finish)
1. Clean with Wheel Cleaner
Tip: if eyebrow is crusty on the underside, a wire wheel works. Use caution and only in areas that won't be seen.
2. Straighten dings and flatten all screw holes with a rounded punch. Scrape rust out of screw holes and remove burrs, carefully wielding a sharp knife. Flattening allows a fine polish at the screw holes.
3. Flatten crinkled corners with a rounding hammer or carved pieces of wood. The idea here is to smooth the factory corner marks. A backer is necessary to support the eyebrow shape. Carve excess metal flat on polished side with very sharp knife. This step can be skipped if the crinkles don't bother you.
4. Sand with 320, then fine steel wool.
5. Buff at buffing wheel with rough polishing compound, applied to the wheel. BE CAREFUL!!! the piece will "catch" on the wheel and can kick back, ruining the eyebrow or YOU.
6. CHANGE WHEELS and polish with polishing compound. ( ours is white)
7. Wipe with paint thinner, wax and buff.
The above works well on other items needing to shine such as water fills.
Another Note: J, L, and awning rails take some real straightening and patience but can be made to appear almost new. The old rails are better quality than what is available today. We usually leave a "mill" finish on edge trim.
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Post by vikx on Aug 15, 2015 10:50:23 GMT -8
I created this thread in order not to Hijack our poll on Trailer Names. 1958 Cardinal:  |
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mel
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1964 Shasta Airflyte
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Post by mel on Aug 15, 2015 11:32:26 GMT -8
@vikx
1. Clean with Wheel Cleaner - what do you mean wheel cleaner??
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Ten
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70 Shasta 16SC + 1964 Airflyte
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Post by Ten on Aug 15, 2015 13:44:39 GMT -8
My method was a little different... I disassembled all the windows, with the exception of removing the glass from the aluminum frames,. and that should be done in order to replace the gasket material in some cases...this one didn't need it. Fitting the glass back in with new sealing gasket can be a bear of a job.
I started with a courser (#1 Medium) steel wool, applied a liberal amount of elbow grease, and tried to rub out all the worst dings, followed by a 000 steel wool, more elbow grease, (In some cases the fine steel wool step was not even necessary.) followed by a hand-polish with Mother's Aluminum Wheel polish mixed with elbow grease. That turns black and does leave a residue...wiped off the excess with elbow grease, and hit with a white cloth buffing wheel in the drill. (My trigger on the drill does not lock"on"...so the carpal tunnel that went with the power-tool portion of the job was amazing.) When the buffing wheel would "plug up" it would tend to leave black gobs, but they were easily removed in the final cleaning step,and didn't end up affecting the finish... I followed the buffing wheel with Windex, sprayed on lightly, and wiped all down with clean paper towels, clean hands, and clear elbow grease.
After reassembly of the windows, I took a clean rag and wiped all the surfaces that would mate with the putty tape with denatured alcohol, to remove any residues that may interfere with the tape sealing the openings. This of course was mixed with elbow grease.
This left a nice shine, but the jury is still out on my final cleaning methods, as there are a few streaks where the rain has run off the corners of the windows and J-rail. I am not sure yet if it is leftover black residue from the polish, or if it may be the residue from the butyl-style tape.
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Ten
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70 Shasta 16SC + 1964 Airflyte
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Post by Ten on Aug 15, 2015 13:47:12 GMT -8
@vikx 1. Clean with Wheel Cleaner - what do you mean wheel cleaner?? My guess is this: There are a number of different aluminum wheel cleaners available at most auto stores, which spray on and soak off the brake dust and road grime from aluminum auto rims. The stuff should work on any type of aluminum that is not painted. |
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Monabones
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1966 Aristocrat Land Commander
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Post by Monabones on Aug 15, 2015 20:23:11 GMT -8
Has anyone ever used a aluminum brightener (acid wash) as first step to remove aluminum oxidation? Also curious if goo gone with 000 steel wool has been used to get a shine on the aluminum.
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Post by vikx on Aug 15, 2015 20:38:34 GMT -8
Wheel Cleaner is a weaker acid wash. It's just easier to use (spray bottle) and abundantly available.
Have never heard of goo gone being good for polishing or much else. Did you try it, Monabones?
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mountainsounds
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1957 Rainbow & 1955 Starfire
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Post by mountainsounds on Aug 15, 2015 20:59:06 GMT -8
Those jalousies are looking sweet Vikx!!
Our 1957 Hehr windows are quite pitted, I suspect our trailer spent some time on the CA coast. But my cobbled together polishing method was: took them totally apart and soaked overnight in oxalic acid and scrubbed with a scotch brite pad. If this didn't remove all of the crud, I sprayed with 4N HCL (hydrochloric acid, yes the serious stuff, wear protection and do not put it down the drain) and then scrubbed some more. This takes off the crud and brightens up the aluminum but doesn't give the mirror finish. For this I used a variable speed bench grinder and rouge on a cloth polishing wheel. As Vikx says, you need to be careful of grabbing on the edges. Letting the metal heat up and with pressure will smooth out surface scratches and shine them up. My problem was deep pitting and some windows are better than others. To take off the rouge I used metal polish. I now have a better idea of what to look for in a trailer in terms of windows. Also, I've replaced all of the seals. Getting those bulb seals into the top channel of the jalousies was a pain. Despite the pitting they should be watertight and looking good from ~5 feet.
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Monabones
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1966 Aristocrat Land Commander
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Post by Monabones on Aug 15, 2015 21:44:09 GMT -8
Wheel Cleaner is a weaker acid wash. It's just easier to use (spray bottle) and abundantly available. Have never heard of goo gone being good for polishing or much else. Did you try it, Monabones? By accident I tried goo gone power pro from HD. It is safe and works good with steel wool. Helps add a lubrication, cleaner to the elbow grease. Then I just wash off with the water hose. This a window frame with just using GG and steel wool 0000. I have not applied a polish.  |
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Post by vikx on Aug 15, 2015 22:32:13 GMT -8
Thanks Mona, lookin good!
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Monabones
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1966 Aristocrat Land Commander
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Post by Monabones on Aug 16, 2015 5:35:21 GMT -8
Thanks Mona, lookin good! Vikx can you post a picture of your polishing/puffering tool. I would like to try your method but do not have the proper tools. Just elbow grease and buffer pads on a drill. Your aluminum polishing technique looks awesome. Sure appreciate the info too. |
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Post by vikx on Aug 16, 2015 11:26:16 GMT -8
Google FOREDOM Carver, there's lots on Youtube and online. The Carver is excellent, but will not take all day use! Ours was replaced under warranty and we are much more careful with it.
Drills work fine, just not as controllable.
The buffer is simply a bench grinder with two cloth buffing wheels, roughing and polishing. We got ours at Harbor Freight, 6".
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Post by rogerthedodger on Aug 16, 2015 11:56:58 GMT -8
Good information. Thanks to everyone.
Roger
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