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Post by Teachndad on Jul 30, 2015 12:35:48 GMT -8
Hi,
While my Westerner, Andy is up on sawhorses for the foreseeable future, LOL, I am taking my '85(It's 30 years old - vintage, LOL) pop up out camping in 10 days. I had to move it to my MIL's house for storage two weeks ago and I couldn't get the tail lights working, nor would the brakes work. I ended up driving the 1.5 miles using good ole hand signals. My brake actuator wasn't showing me a connection.
The only thing that's changed in the year and a half since we last used the pop up, was that I pulled out the battery over a year ago as it was dead as dirt. Having done nothing else related to the electrical system, am I correct to suspect that the poles of the battery were wired as part of the circuit?
If that's the case, I will lug the battery back inside the trailer and connect it to get the tail lights and brakes working. I don't have the cash to shell out for a new battery right now.
Seems that for safety sake, the wiring should have allowed me to tow it without the battery included into the circuit. ?
Thanks,
Rod
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cowcharge
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Post by cowcharge on Jul 30, 2015 13:11:14 GMT -8
Or just connect the two battery cables together to test it. Your lights shouldn't be dependent on battery power to work, but if the battery was part of the circuit the lights will work when the cables are connected. Just make sure there's no converter/battery charger plugged in at the time.
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SusieQ
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Post by SusieQ on Jul 30, 2015 13:14:32 GMT -8
Or just connect the two battery cables together to test it. Your lights shouldn't be dependent on battery power to work, but if the battery was part of the circuit the lights will work when the cables are connected. Just make sure there's no converter/battery charger plugged in at the time. Hijacking this thread momentarily to say hello to Cow. How's it going in your part of the country? How's your trailer coming along?
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cowcharge
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Post by cowcharge on Jul 30, 2015 14:02:23 GMT -8
Or just connect the two battery cables together to test it. Your lights shouldn't be dependent on battery power to work, but if the battery was part of the circuit the lights will work when the cables are connected. Just make sure there's no converter/battery charger plugged in at the time. Hijacking this thread momentarily to say hello to Cow. How's it going in your part of the country? How's your trailer coming along? Hiya Suze, it's pretty humid here the last few days, and there's a skunk somewhere in the neighborhood who must watch horror movies every night. I'm getting ready to bring my camper back home so I can actually work on it.
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Post by Teachndad on Aug 3, 2015 21:15:45 GMT -8
Houston, we have a problem. I was able to get inside the trailer today to look around. Keep in mind, I don't know much about wiring, other than basic circuitry and I have never wired a trailer or a vehicle. Also, I have never had an issue with the taillights, marker lights or brake engagement in the past. I have owned the trailer for almost 9 years. In trying to find the problem, I checked all the fuses inside the trailer and all are intact. I checked the inline fuses at the battery terminals(on the wires that go back to the hitch) in the TV. One is a 15amp and the other is a 30 amp. The 30 amp was blown. I replaced it with a new one. Lights were still dead in the water. I checked and rechecked all my connections at the rear of the tow vehicle and the connections were solid. Still dead in the water. I bolted the battery terminal wires in the trailer together hoping to complete the circuit. No go. I even clicked the inverter to the off position. There is a circuit breaker on the inverter. When I push it down, it sounds like it resets inside. I hear a click. I will put the battery back in tomorrow, but I don't think that's the issue. I will also add some dialectric grease to the harness that goes into the side of the trailer tongue even though it fits snug. My trailer has been mothballed on jacks for a year in a carport protected on three sides since just before my shoulder operation in July last year. Since then, the alternator was replaced on my tow vehicle and I removed the battery in the trailer. Nothing else has changed. Also, I have towed my trailer in the past with the battery wires disconnected in the trailer where they attach to the terminals in the battery to ease the load on the alternator and I had my lights and brakes working at that time, so that tells me that the circuit is probably closed regardless of whether the battery is connected or not. So, is the problem in the TV wiring? I couldn't get underneath my van tonight as it was getting dark. Maybe something happened to a wire somewhere. The brake controller does not indicate a connection. I am befuddled. We are scheduled to leave on our camping trip on 4 days...
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Post by vikx on Aug 3, 2015 21:54:53 GMT -8
Your GROUND IS BAD.
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Post by Teachndad on Aug 4, 2015 4:29:53 GMT -8
Hey Vikx, Thanks for the lead, no pun intended. I researched this and found that it might help to have the trailer hitched up to the tow vehicle when testing... I will try that later today after the sun rises and report back. cheers, Rod
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Post by Teachndad on Aug 4, 2015 9:13:57 GMT -8
I got the lights and brakes working 10 minutes ago!
Once the trailer was hitched I got brakes, but no lights.
Checked the 30 amp fuse near the van battery and it was blown again. I don't know if it blew when I connected the positive and negative cables for the trailer battery in an attempt to make the lights work. I don't know yet if the blown fuse is indicative of a continuing issue. I guess we will see. I will take my temporary lights with me.
Tail lights are bright and all my marker lights work as well and the brake controller registers the brakes.
Rod
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Ten
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Post by Ten on Aug 4, 2015 13:32:19 GMT -8
Rod, It is possible that the fuse blew again as soon as you tried your lights again, before hooking up. A dead short or bad ground will pop 'em as soon as you try to light 'em up. It seems like you have a ground issue and the ground is completed by the trailer being connected to the tow vehicle that is supplying the power. Make sure you clean off the hitch and ball well to keep good contact there. I would also recommend checking the spots where your system grounds to the frame, including the grounding that runs from your plug-in wiring. If there is a break in the ground between the plug-in and the lighting system onboard the trailer, then it will cause a short-circuit, overheating the wiring and blowing fuses.
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Post by Teachndad on Aug 4, 2015 22:18:20 GMT -8
Thanks, Ten,
I have always in the past hitched up the trailer first and then the wiring harnesses were connected. So, I never saw this issue. This is the first time I have done it in reverse. I will chase down the ground.
The TV wiring was done 7 years ago by a local RV shop with the trailer attached. I trusted their work.
Rod
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