|
Post by teekeepost on Jul 30, 2015 10:56:24 GMT -8
|
|
|
Post by vikx on Jul 30, 2015 23:32:33 GMT -8
Welcome Teekeepost and thank you for asking.
Your roof looks to be steel and very rusted. It is probably not repairable in that particular area. However, the roof can be replaced with aluminum and it's not too difficult to do.
Please read around on the board a bit and decide how much you really want/need to do.
|
|
nccamper
Administrator
Posts: 7,745
Likes: 2,872
1962 Forester- 1956 Shasta
Currently Offline
|
Post by nccamper on Jul 31, 2015 5:22:49 GMT -8
Welcome!
I agree about the roof. Replacing it is the long-term answer. Is there rust anywhere other than the roof?
It looks like Grandma used sealer in the past. For a (very) short-term fix I might gently scrape/sand off the old sealer and try putting on a new layer. But with the roof rusted it may do more damage than good if you pop through the roof because it's too corroded. And the sealer may not even stick if there is a lot of rust. If you give it a try, be gentle.
Normally, I hate sealer. I've used it but it never holds up for long. And getting it off is an ugly job. If you decide to replace the roof, goop removal won't be an issue.
The people on this forum have bought more Tarps than any group in America.
|
|
Ten
3K Member
Posts: 3,432
Likes: 1,467
70 Shasta 16SC + 1964 Airflyte
Currently Offline
|
Post by Ten on Jul 31, 2015 5:59:55 GMT -8
One of the biggest issues here is that we are all waiting to see the REST of the Arrow!
Congratulations on acquiring it, I am sure that with a little TLC and a lot of knowledge, it will last you a very long time, and you will get a lot of enjoyment out of it. Going through the processes of learning the best repairs and then actually getting ones hands dirty doing them is a very rewarding part of the experience. Just know ahead that patching such a small area CAN turn into a lot bigger than a gallon pail of tar, and the best fixes SHOULD....
I have to agree with the other comments regarding the current condition of the roof. I have seen these steel roofs before, in this condition, and there is no real long-term quick fix. Replacement, although a scary suggestion, is the best alternative, especially if you intend to keep it in the family as an heirloom over more generations. The process will take you all the way to stripping the trailer almost completely to its skeleton....but it gives a very open look at the condition of many parts that are otherwise totally hidden. This can actually save a lot of time, money, and heartache later on. It is a large task, but is a process, not a job. Many have done it before, in different ways with different skill levels and facilities.
The best advice anyone can give up front is to take your time in deciding how to proceed, and read around, ask questions, learn what holds these old babies together. It makes the process and the decision a lot less scary.
|
|
|
Post by vintagebruce on Jul 31, 2015 6:04:12 GMT -8
to VTT. When you can identify a roof leak, like the one shown, please be aware that you obviously have water intrusion in the ceiling area and downward on the wall. Depending how long the leak has gone on you may have some serious framing damage in the wall ceiling and floor framing with paneling and insulation affected too. Check the bottom sill along the side wall below the leak and if it is discolored, punky or something like an icepick can penetrate the wood, plan on more than a relatively simple straightforward fix. If the damage is greater than you imagined, don't be discouraged. VTT and mobiltec's video collection of how-to repairs, as well as many Member's comments and repair blogs will get you through the process at a pace you can afford. Arrows are nifty vintage campers. Judging from the arc of the roof line, I am guessing you might have picked up one of the small Arrows, a Little Chief by chance? www.tincantourists.com/wiki/lib/exe/fetch.php?media=1965arrowlittlechief.jpg
|
|
RinTin
Full Member
Posts: 760
Likes: 292
Currently Offline
|
Post by RinTin on Jul 31, 2015 6:15:40 GMT -8
Being on a tight budget, new roof metal may be out of the question right now, but without a doubt, if you plan to keep the trailer and want a permanent solution, you will need to start saving for it right now.
Do you plan to eventually do a full restoration on the trailer or are you trying to just patch it up and use it as is? Either way, if you don't have a covered work area, you will need a good quality tarp for protection while performing the work or storing the trailer until you can do a permanent repair.
For a patch, since the rust looks heaviest along the outside edge, first remove the roof to sidewall edge trim, then remove the roof coating around ALL the rusty spots until you reach good, non rusted metal. An angle grinder with a wire cup wheel works great for this. For just a patch, you don't need to remove the coating from the entire roof.
Wire brush the loose rust and wipe with paint thinner and let dry. You don't need to remove all the rust, just the loose stuff. Buy quart or two of POR15 and some woven fiberglass cloth. Cut the fiberglass to the shape of the area being repaired, then heavily wet the rusted areas with POR15 and lay the fiberglass into it, making sure it is fully saturated. You may need to apply more POR15 to sufficiently saturate. Be sure the POR15 extends beyond the outside edge of the cloth. Let it set up overnight and apply a second thin coat. Then coat the POR15 with just about any roof sealer and re-install the metal trim.
I have done this to patch car body floor and trunk pans and it works. It will cost about $150 or so.
|
|
|
Post by vikx on Jul 31, 2015 21:42:35 GMT -8
Good advice above. Thanks Everyone!
|
|