Post by SusieQ on Jul 29, 2015 7:09:02 GMT -8
This is how I did it. The cabinet and woodworking experts may have a better way. If so, post.
To repair the bare spots, where the veneer had peeled off the edge of my scalloped cubbies, I stripped the veneer off of a piece of wood I had saved. My piece happened to be that piece to the left of the door in the Compact.
I then tore (do not cut, you want it a little ragged) a strip bigger than the place being repaired. If you have enough wood and are so inclined, you can kind of match up the grain. Make sure it will butt up to the edge of the intact veneer.
BEFORE you strip or sand, put super glue on the part to be replaced. It will soak in a bit. Put it on the strip too and let it dry a few seconds. Make sure you have glue all the way to the edge. You will still have time to fit it in the spot. Butt it up tightly and hold in place. If any glue oozes out just wipe it off. The residue will strip/sand off.
After it has dried, trim it closely to the scallop shape. I used my Dremel. Then hand sand the edges.
Horizontal edges are a little more difficult. If the horzintal break is ragged, I break out with my fingernails and try to get a straight line. Tearing the veneer against the grain is little more difficult too, so I score it just a bit, but don't cut all the way through, you still want a torn edge.
The key for me is super glue. It won't expand and it dries faster and thinner than wood glue and it is permanent. You might not think "super glue" when you think wood but luthiers use it on stringed instruments to glue permanent things in place and repair veneer on not so expensive instruments. A luthier's super glue is the same as you would buy except it dries faster.
I stripped and sanded over my repairs and they held. I did have some pieces pull up that weren't repaired. So check your edges before you start sanding or stripping.
When I get the finish on, all post pics. I repaired/replaced 10 spots and now I can't even find them all.
To repair the bare spots, where the veneer had peeled off the edge of my scalloped cubbies, I stripped the veneer off of a piece of wood I had saved. My piece happened to be that piece to the left of the door in the Compact.
I then tore (do not cut, you want it a little ragged) a strip bigger than the place being repaired. If you have enough wood and are so inclined, you can kind of match up the grain. Make sure it will butt up to the edge of the intact veneer.
BEFORE you strip or sand, put super glue on the part to be replaced. It will soak in a bit. Put it on the strip too and let it dry a few seconds. Make sure you have glue all the way to the edge. You will still have time to fit it in the spot. Butt it up tightly and hold in place. If any glue oozes out just wipe it off. The residue will strip/sand off.
After it has dried, trim it closely to the scallop shape. I used my Dremel. Then hand sand the edges.
Horizontal edges are a little more difficult. If the horzintal break is ragged, I break out with my fingernails and try to get a straight line. Tearing the veneer against the grain is little more difficult too, so I score it just a bit, but don't cut all the way through, you still want a torn edge.
The key for me is super glue. It won't expand and it dries faster and thinner than wood glue and it is permanent. You might not think "super glue" when you think wood but luthiers use it on stringed instruments to glue permanent things in place and repair veneer on not so expensive instruments. A luthier's super glue is the same as you would buy except it dries faster.
I stripped and sanded over my repairs and they held. I did have some pieces pull up that weren't repaired. So check your edges before you start sanding or stripping.
When I get the finish on, all post pics. I repaired/replaced 10 spots and now I can't even find them all.
