bmrrwolfe
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Post by bmrrwolfe on Jul 25, 2015 7:13:02 GMT -8
I have my side walls done on my 1966 Scotty, and am about to start the front/rear/roof paneling. I was just wondering if anyone had any tips or tricks to get the paneling installed?
The first step will simply be getting the whole setup square and straight.
Second I need to pick a good budget friendly paneling.
Lastly will simply be the install.
Any tips tricks secrets or how-tos for any of these processes would be greatly appreciated!
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kirkadie
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'69 Serro Scotty Hilander
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Post by kirkadie on Jul 25, 2015 9:17:36 GMT -8
Check out Larry's videos. He suggests starting at the top center. Hopefully you marked where your panels stopped and started from the original walls to your new ones, eh?
Pre-cut the panels to the exact width of the trailer so that your walls will remain parallel as you attach them. Lots of us prefinish the panels before hanging. If you are using gimp, install it before doing the panels because the gimp is stapled to the edges of the wall plywood, and around the tops of the cabinets that meet the ceiling.
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Post by vikx on Jul 25, 2015 21:32:50 GMT -8
I start at the front and go up and over. Very good luck that way, tho might try Larry's method the next time. Makes sense.
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Jul 26, 2015 7:02:15 GMT -8
Check out Larry's videos. He suggests starting at the top center. Hopefully you marked where your panels stopped and started from the original walls to your new ones, eh? Was that in Larry's Shasta series? I must have missed that one. |
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bmrrwolfe
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Post by bmrrwolfe on Jul 26, 2015 18:51:31 GMT -8
I did not mark my seams, and the fact that some of of the original paneling was replaced, and some just had layers over the old, I didn't know what was the original seams.
One big question I was wondering, is if anyone has used something other then Birch? I have some family that owns a company that uses a lot of 1/8" MDF that I can get 4x8 sheets for free or next to nothing, it is flexible and seems to have decent strength. Another option I saw was 4x8 sheets of almost plastic like panels like what is in a new camper, just using alot more cross braces.
I am not worried about originality or weight, just a functioning camper that is strong and will last.
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Jul 26, 2015 19:29:12 GMT -8
I'm not an expert, but I wouldn't use MDF (medium density fiberboard) on a camper being jostled around. I don't think it's intended to be flexed and bounced. Others may have a different opinion. Plastic sheets work on newer campers but as a rule of thumb, we don't like the word "Plastic" in VintageLand!  |
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Jul 26, 2015 20:01:06 GMT -8
I'm not an expert, but I wouldn't use MDF (medium density fiberboard) on a camper being jostled around. I don't think it's intended to be flexed and bounced. Others may have a different opinion. Plastic sheets work on newer campers but as a rule of thumb, we don't like the word "Plastic" in VintageLand! MDF turns to mush as soon as it get's wet. Every trailer I have ever seen made out of that stuff has warped walls. All trailers leak eventually and some sooner than others.
I always start with the panel with the vent in it. I call it the Key Sheet. I have videos and photos of this process coming soon. I mention it in most of my other videos though. You people all saw the photos of the 54 Aljoa here in "What Did You Do To Your Trailer Today" the last 4 months.
By only removing and replacing one sheet at a time you keep the trailer in the same shape it was when you started. Nothing can move that way. Remove one and replace it. Then remove the next and so on. You can go in either direction. Doesn't matter.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Jul 26, 2015 20:10:39 GMT -8
I did not mark my seams, and the fact that some of of the original paneling was replaced, and some just had layers over the old, I didn't know what was the original seams. One big question I was wondering, is if anyone has used something other then Birch? I have some family that owns a company that uses a lot of 1/8" MDF that I can get 4x8 sheets for free or next to nothing, it is flexible and seems to have decent strength. Another option I saw was 4x8 sheets of almost plastic like panels like what is in a new camper, just using alot more cross braces. I am not worried about originality or weight, just a functioning camper that is strong and will last. If you have already removed all your ceiling paneling I would start in the middle with the ceiling vent near the middle some where. You may want to pull a soft tape from the front up around the top marking every 4 feet. See where that ends up for you. Many trailers have one panel that is much smaller than the rest and that is usually aft of the Key Sheet. (vented panel)
If you are going to paint, just use 1/8 inch Luan. It's cheap and you can get it at big box stores. Make sure and seal it before you paint it.
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bmrrwolfe
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Post by bmrrwolfe on Jul 27, 2015 9:21:44 GMT -8
Thanks for the info. I kinda figured the MDF was not a good solution but as i was offered it for free, I figured I had to ask. Unfortunately with this trailer it was so rotted away it was gutted to the frame so the one panel at a time would not have worked with it.
I know I'm a little different then most here, since I'm not doing the restoration. But the original components were all good and I'm working on a small budget, so the exterior will stay original with a modern interior.
I will try to work with the luan, since its cheap and can get it down the street. Any tips to getting the boards to bend easier?
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Jul 27, 2015 10:40:31 GMT -8
I will try to work with the luan, since its cheap and can get it down the street. Any tips to getting the boards to bend easier? Luan may bend enough. Some people cut very tiny grooves (lines) with a skill saw part way through the back of the wood every few inches to make it more bendable. I haven't done it myself. |
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