mel
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1964 Shasta Airflyte
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Post by mel on Jul 17, 2015 13:40:40 GMT -8
Hi, This might seem like a stupid question, but I would like to know how to properly level my trailer. I have not been trailer camping since I was a teen in my parents camper, I understand the concept of it. But I just want to make sure I'm doing it right. A video would be very helpful, or a detailed description would be good too I remember when my parents would do it they would have a few levels on the outside of the camper, I don't usually see them on vintage campers, what do you use?
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Post by vikx on Jul 17, 2015 21:28:57 GMT -8
You don't need it exactly level unless the trailer has a working propane fridge. Otherwise, get it eyeball level and then place your jacks at 4 points. Walk into the trailer to be sure it's reasonably level feeling and the pillow end of the bed is not on the low side. LOL. The jacks should be snug enough to make the trailer feel solid.
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Post by vintagebruce on Jul 18, 2015 6:23:40 GMT -8
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carvelloafer
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1959 Lil Loafer
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Post by carvelloafer on Jul 18, 2015 8:11:18 GMT -8
It can be fun if the spot you are setting up on is out of level but here is what I do with the Lil Loafer:
1) Position the trailer where You want it leaving it connected to the truck. 2) Look at the back end of the trailer to see if one side is low and needs to come up to make it level. 3) Roll the low side onto a wood block to get it reasonably close to level; use a short spirit level if you don't have an eye for level. (I try to have the head end of the bed side slightly higher). 4) Place two wheel chocks on both wheels to be sure it won't roll and disconnect from the truck. 5) Lower the coupler end to raise the back end. 6) Position the jack stands on the back end under the frame; assuming you are using conventional stands. 7) Raise the coupler end until looking at the side it is reasonably level, use the spirit level if that helps. 8) Position the jack stands under the frame at the front. 9) Lower the coupler until the trailer is fully supported on the jack stands and give the trailer a little shake and rattle to be sure the jack stands are fairly solid. 10) Crank the trailer jack back down so it contacts the ground just enough to share the load with the front jack stands.
Removal is basically reversed.
I like to keep a seven point contact; 4 jacks, 2 tires, and the trailer jack.
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Ten
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70 Shasta 16SC + 1964 Airflyte
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Post by Ten on Jul 18, 2015 8:16:54 GMT -8
Another quick and easy tool is the bullseye level... www.homedepot.com/p/Camco-Bullseye-Level-25573/202245491It mounts on the tongue of the trailer near the jack. Handy for a quick "leveling". I used to think one needed to carry 4-foot levels and a pair of 1-ton hydraulic jacks to appropriately level a camper, but I have found that eyeballing is a lot easier. You can keep a 6-inch level in your drawer and get good results. A fairly even level lot helps too, but of course is not always the norm in the real world. Unhook from the tow vehicle and drop the front end down low, eye up level across the bumper and set a pair of jacks on the rear corners, then jack the front up so the rear settles onto the jacks, repeat if it's way off ; bring the front higher than level and set another pair of jacks for the front corners. Using the tongue jack to level is lots easier than crawling underneath with the hydraulic jacks. Once you are eyeball level, put the level both ways on the stovetop. Unless you are planning a Jenga tournament, the next most important thing is that the eggs stay in the frying pan....oh and the blood shouldn't rush to your head all night either, as Vikx points out...
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nccamper
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1962 Forester- 1956 Shasta
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Post by nccamper on Jul 18, 2015 18:43:49 GMT -8
I'm level when my wife tells me I'm level. If she says the bulls eye level is off...she's right!
With that said, the suggestion of bringing blocks of wood is a good one. We've all had the impossible nobody-wants-it site. A couple of foot long pieces of 2x8 can save the day.
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longroads
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Post by longroads on Jul 18, 2015 19:53:13 GMT -8
I leveled my 32' fifth wheel by walking it up and down on the landing gear but I wonder if it ended up hurting my landing gear. The old landing gear stripped and I had to machine a new bevel gear or replace the entire landing jacks.
I lowered the landing gear, put blocks under the rear and raised the landing gear. Then, I put a block underneath the front of the frame before the cab over so I could take the weight off of the landing gear and block under the landing gear feet. Afterwards, I jacked the rear end up and repeated the steps till I was level. The second time doing this is when I had the failure. The bottom of the trailer frame is about 24 inches off the ground in the highest spot. I have blocks spread every 8 feet on curb and streetside; 1 in the rear, 1 before the wheel, 1 after the wheels, 1 right before the cab over and 1 under the front of the cab over (I still need to add this one)
This is for long term storage on unlevel surface.
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coloradocamper
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1956 Terry Trailer
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Post by coloradocamper on Aug 14, 2015 13:52:00 GMT -8
My trailer has these little stick-on level indicators added by a former owner, I find them indispensable - one is directly inside the door and shows the level for side to side, the other is on a lower cabinet directly across from the entry door and indicates front to back levels. I keep the front door open, stick my jacks under the frame, then raise them where necessary, running from the jack to the front door to see how I am doing unless I have someone with me who stands at the door and tells me when I am level. I have often thought about finding some more stick-on level indicators and mounting them outside in an inconspicuous place near each corner...
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