RinTin
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Post by RinTin on Jul 12, 2015 6:36:30 GMT -8
Hi All,
I plan to install one of each, or a combo unit(s) (if such exists) in the 65 Aloha and am just starting my research. Looking for feedback on what some of you have done, what product(s) you used, installation tips, caveats, etc.
I'm shooting for a clean, simple, reliable 12v system, accessible for maintenance yet unobtrusive. I don't need help with the wiring at this point.
TIA
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nccamper
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1962 Forester- 1956 Shasta
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Post by nccamper on Jul 12, 2015 7:55:02 GMT -8
I tried a combo unit a few years ago but whenever we cooked it went off. Door open, windows open, it still went off. So I took it out. I think it was the sudden rush of heat.
It will be interesting to see if others had better luck.
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RinTin
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Post by RinTin on Jul 12, 2015 8:44:44 GMT -8
I tried a combo unit a few years ago but whenever we cooked it went off. Door open, windows open, it still went off. So I took it out. I think it was the sudden rush of heat. It will be interesting to see if others had better luck. That's not encouraging. I'm planning to install a roof vent fan, maybe that will help. Also want to hard wire to the house battery. |
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kirkadie
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'69 Serro Scotty Hilander
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Post by kirkadie on Jul 12, 2015 9:07:32 GMT -8
RinTin, you might want to try a battery operated stick on model first so if the trailer's volume proves to be too small you won't have holes in your paneling from a failed hard wired one.
We had a modern 21' Aeolite that I installed one in that went off whenever we cooked; it was left in a trash can at Goose Island State Park, after a final moment of frustration! We were even camped on the beach with a breeze, door and windows open...
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turbodaddy
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17' 1965 Fan "Sunseeker"
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Post by turbodaddy on Jul 12, 2015 16:21:21 GMT -8
We're only going with a carbon monoxide detector. I can smell propane,and if there's a fire with all that shellac and birch ply, we're toast anyway! (I have to say I have thought about how impossible it would be to get out quickly). I suggest having at least a couple fire extinguishers in easy to reach places. "Hit the floor and find the door".
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mntrailer66
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Post by mntrailer66 on Jul 12, 2015 17:49:02 GMT -8
We got a smoke detector that is made specifically for kitchens and bathrooms. It still goes off rarely when cooking but not like the first general combo one I had gotten that went off every time I cooked.
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Post by vikx on Jul 12, 2015 22:28:56 GMT -8
Get a battery operated unit for the trailer. They are more reliable and do not drain the 12 volt house battery.
I also use only the CO detector. Propane STINKS, even for me with a lousy smeller. Smoke can be seen and/or sniffed as well...
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chametzoo
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1960 Mobile Scout
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Post by chametzoo on Jul 14, 2015 4:58:31 GMT -8
Get a battery operated unit for the trailer. They are more reliable and do not drain the 12 volt house battery. I also use only the CO detector. Propane STINKS, even for me with a lousy smeller. Smoke can be seen and/or sniffed as well... Vikx is right on all counts. Also have a fire extinguisher and/or fire proof wrap within arms length of where you sleep. With only one exit in these rigs, if there is a fire, you'll have to fight your way out with said tools. As well, if you have a combustion appliance INSIDE the trailer (i.e., catalytic heater, water heater) you must provide some extra ventilation. Most older trailers will naturally ventilate due to space under the door, jealousie windows etc. But providing even a little more can prevent complete consumption of interior oxygen and suffocation while sleeping. That's your main concern, not so much CO poisoning! |
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RinTin
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Post by RinTin on Jul 14, 2015 5:59:14 GMT -8
Thanks for the replies, lots to consider.
Yes, a couple of fire extinguishers will be included in the plan, hadn't thought of the blanket, good idea.
I would have thought that if the 9v battery in a smoke detector lasts a full year, the drain from a 12v house battery would be almost imperceptible. I've never heard that the 9v detectors are more reliable, if so, it certainly makes more sense to go that route.
What I have learned so far is that smoke detectors are either photoelectric or ionization type, or a combination of both. The ionization type is most common and responds quicker to fast developing fires like grease fires, but are slower to respond to smoldering fires. I suspect it is the ionization type that false alarms easier.
All 3 devices are required in newly manufactured RV's and have been for some time now. For this reason alone I am inclined to do likewise. Cheap insurance.
Sure propane stinks, but while sleeping, will I smell it and be awakened in time to prevent an explosion? I am in the habit of closing the propane valve at the tank before turning in for the night, but am also human and sometimes forget.
I am not typically much of a safety bug, but sleeping in such a small enclosed space with potential hazards close at hand is giving me pause to think.
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iceman77
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1958 Rainbow
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Post by iceman77 on Jul 14, 2015 18:03:54 GMT -8
I appreciate the discussion. I've never thought gas or CO would be a problem because there is nothing air tight about my Rainbow. But a fire extinguisher and blanket wrap near the bed within reach sounds like a great piece of insurance. Our extinguisher is mounted at the front overhead cabinet. Won't do much good if we're in bed.
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cowcharge
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Post by cowcharge on Jul 30, 2015 13:59:44 GMT -8
I have to disagree with not having a smoke detector, it's a very risky bet to assume that you'll wake up from the smell of smoke in time to get out. If a fire starts these things'll be totally engulfed in a matter of a minute or two.
The fireproof blanket's a great idea.
Considering how flimsily these things are built, having a nice sharp axe inside might not be a bad idea as a last resort to get out. A dozen well-aimed chops around the sides of a window and you could probably push the whole window out. I wish I had a spare disposable camper to test that on.
Thankfully by the time they built my '76 they had added a fire escape window in the bedroom, so I wouldn't have to fight my way past the fire to reach the door.
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SusieQ
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'62 Shasta Compact
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Post by SusieQ on Jul 30, 2015 14:38:22 GMT -8
Another reason for using regular glass instead of tempered in the rear window of the Shasta's. Easily broken for a rear escape.
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Post by rogerthedodger on Jul 30, 2015 15:25:22 GMT -8
Hey, my thoughts on this, regular glass, you might get a bad cut from the jagged edges. Maybe one of those hammers sold to break auto glass? It is small enough to keep in a glove compartment?
Roger
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SusieQ
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Post by SusieQ on Jul 30, 2015 15:31:43 GMT -8
Well, they don't have tempered glass originally and that may be one reason. I think Bill brought this up a while back. I'd rather get cut than burn to death. My son and I have actually discussed this as an escape route. Guess we could sleep with the camping hatchet next to the bed. Just hope it never comes to that.
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