chelsy
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Post by chelsy on Jun 18, 2015 8:17:02 GMT -8
So we have original 60's blue counter tops in our boles aero. The only problem we have is that the glue underneath is failing in the back corner and around faucet area. We were thinking either drilling small hole and adding glue that way, or i also read that you can heat the glue up with a towel and clothes iron to reseal down with pressure. Both options seem scary to me and im also afraid of removing the whole this because i may crack it. Please help!
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RinTin
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Post by RinTin on Jun 18, 2015 9:37:16 GMT -8
Your plastic laminate (Formica is a brand) should have been originally applied with contact cement. Your separation is probably caused from inadequate glue during original installation, exposure to moisture or a combination of both. Before repairing make sure there are no leaks around the window or faucet.
Heating will only give you temporary relief at best. The problem with drilling a hole is you can only get a small amount of glue around the area of the hole. You may need to drill more than one hole to get it to lay flat. Then you have added a defect.
As long as you don't have any moisture problems it is only a cosmetic issue. Unless you just can't stand it, you may be better off leaving well enough alone, especially considering your trepidation.
The only way I know of to truly fix it would be to remove the original laminate and re-glue it. A good local laminate countertop fabricator should be able to come to your place and do this in a day. This should cost you $300 to $400 but maybe more depending on what all there is to contend with.
Sorry, probably not what you wanted to hear. BTW, not to suggest that I know it all but I used to be a certified countertop fabricator and did this kind of work professionally so I do know a thing or two about it.
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chelsy
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Post by chelsy on Jun 18, 2015 11:14:54 GMT -8
Wow, its great to have a response from a certified countertop fabricator. Thank you for sharing. (thks)Yes, there is no leaking. I believe it is from years of dish drying because it is in the low spots. Yes, i figured it would cost quite a bit for a professional fix and you are probably right on leave well enough alone. But lets just say in theory I wanted to try to pry the it up myself to save a little DIY money, would i use a razor blade knife/putty knife to lift? Is there a preferred glue to use/ application methods? Also is there such a thing as a custom counter top printing company that can reprint to match original? I am assuming if there is one it would probably cost an arm and a leg My husband believes that we would probably have to remove the sink as well to get it up. hmmm....
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ladywendolyn
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Post by ladywendolyn on Jun 18, 2015 13:25:48 GMT -8
If you can get at the edge that is lifting by removing the sink, you may be able to shoot some adhesive in there with a needle. I have done this type of repair and then put a heavy weight on it and it held
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RinTin
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Post by RinTin on Jun 18, 2015 14:25:21 GMT -8
You are correct, the sink and faucet will have to be removed. What ladywendolyn suggests may work fine for the area behind the sink. If you do this, do not use an expanding polyurethane glue like Gorilla Glue.
Separating the laminate from the substrate takes time, patience and careful handling. In a nutshell, starting at the most sensible outside corner, apply enough heat to the top with an iron through a terrycloth to soften the glue. This will allow you to slip a thin blade between the laminate and substrate. I would start with a box cutter knife blade, then a thin putty knife. Don't try force it or lift up on the laminate, let the heat and putty knife do the work, just a little at a time. Getting started is the most difficult part and takes the longest. If heating the top doesn't soften the glue enough, try a using solvent in a squirt or spray bottle. I used lacquer thinner because I always had some on hand and it worked well.
I don't know if there is a company that does counter top printing.
Hope this helps.
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modernme
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Post by modernme on Jun 18, 2015 14:59:26 GMT -8
Also is there such a thing as a custom counter top printing company that can reprint to match original? I am assuming if there is one it would probably cost an arm and a leg I don't know how good of an image you could get of the original, but yes, there is custom laminate printing. www.tapeease.com/custom_laminate.htm-ModernMe
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chelsy
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Post by chelsy on Jun 19, 2015 11:40:44 GMT -8
Thank you for all the great advice. That is great that there is custom counter top fabricator! Now just in case I screw it up i have a definite backup plan! They also carried the anodized metal for that lovely strip of gold on the boles. We will see if we can just heat it or just try to squirt a bit of adhesive (not expanding gorilla glue) where we can and put weight on it to just see if it will hold. If not we will take our time and try to take it off this winter. Two more questions if you don't mind; 1. If i use the lacquer thinner in the squirt bottle i have to be careful to not get in on the top, it will eat the laminate color right? 2. What type of heating tool should i use. Does a clothes iron on low work with the terrycloth? Thanks again!
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RinTin
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Post by RinTin on Jun 19, 2015 13:42:23 GMT -8
Check with your local carpet and vinyl outlet to find a p-lam guy. In our area carpet and vinyl places also subcontract out p-lam countertop work.
Lacquer thinner will not do anything to the laminate color. It dissolves the contact cement. Keep it off your wood finishes though.
An old clothing iron is what I used, full blast. The towel protects the countertop from being scratched by the iron and keeps you from overheating. Single layer, not folded over, don't wet it. As long as you don't burn the towel you will be OK.
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Hamlet
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Post by Hamlet on Jun 19, 2015 16:01:26 GMT -8
It's also a good way to re-open those pesky bills that you sealed and then noticed the check sitting next to you on the desk. Not that I would know this from experience.
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chelsy
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Post by chelsy on Jun 25, 2015 12:19:28 GMT -8
Thank you for all the help, its much appreciated.
Lol, yes I too have lots of bills after fixing up this trailer!
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wetbrush
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Post by wetbrush on Jul 6, 2015 19:55:31 GMT -8
So has anyone ordered custom laminate printed sheets..,about how much per sheet?
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modernme
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Post by modernme on Jul 6, 2015 21:25:10 GMT -8
I have not ordered anything from the company listed above, I just found it in searching for laminates. As for pricing, the website says;
"Pricing starts at $16.00/sq ft for one sheet and down to $12.50/sq ft for 25+ sheets. Pricing is by e-mail quote only. There cannot be any printing done 1" in on all sides of the sheet. Sheets are sent in full size and the customer must cut them down to desired sizes. Sizes available are: 3'x8', 3'x10', 3'x 12', 4'x 8', 4'x 10' & 4'x 12'. We also need a scaled drawing showing the layout you would like. Some Trademark images have specific Pantone color references and may require permission to use."
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turbodaddy
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Post by turbodaddy on Jul 7, 2015 2:47:20 GMT -8
This may sound like a no-brainer, but someone out there might be confused regarding the hot iron / lacquer thinner technique. These are TWO SEPARATE suggestions for removing the laminate from the substrate.Do NOT use them together!
Lacquer thinner is highly flammable, even the vapor remaining under the laminate could cause problems. In such a small space as a trailer, I'd disconnect all electric (AC & DC) prior to using lacquer thinner.
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