chametzoo
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1960 Mobile Scout
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Post by chametzoo on May 20, 2015 7:25:17 GMT -8
I'm considering swapping out the 55 year old coupler on my '60 Mobile Scout. It is the "A" frame type (standard 50 degree angle, I think.) Shopping around, I see both stamped steel and cast versions.
Questions:
-What are the advantages to each of these materials?
-The trailer is about 2500+ lbs, what rating should I be looking for?
-I'm also seeing ones with a lip or flange all the way around the ball receiver, but also "bulldog" type that don't have this feature.
-Is there a favored latch/pawl design?
-Are there any particular brands that are favored?
I'll also point out that the trailer's VIN is stamped into the existing coupler unit. Changing the coupler will remove this identification from the trailer. Is that an important concern?
Thanks!
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John Palmer
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Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
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Post by John Palmer on May 20, 2015 7:49:56 GMT -8
If it's not broke, I would not change it! I really doubt that any new coupler is as well constructed as a coupler that is still working after 50-60 years. The new steel is not the same.
If your coupler is damaged beyond repair, make sure you buy a USA made product like Atwood. They are twice the price of the imported parts, but this is a hard part to replace, and not where you need to save money.
If you have a 2500# trailer, you need a 5000# coupler for a safety margin.
eTrailer.com orders of $99 or more are free shipping, and they have the best selection in the business. It will be at your house a couple of days.
I'll bet you could drop by HF with your 20% off coupon, and find some number stamps for $5, get a free flashlight, and those VIN# might magically reappear on the new coupler, just saying.
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chametzoo
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1960 Mobile Scout
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Post by chametzoo on May 20, 2015 7:58:45 GMT -8
If it's not broke, I would not change it! I really doubt that any new coupler is as well constructed as a coupler that is still working after 50-60 years. The new steel is not the same. If your coupler is damaged beyond repair, make sure you buy a USA made product like Atwood. They are twice the price of the imported parts, but this is a hard part to replace, and not where you need to save money. If you have a 2500# trailer, you need a 5000# coupler for a safety margin. eTrailer.com orders of $99 or more are free shipping, and they have the best selection in the business. It will be at your house a couple of days. I'll bet you could drop by HF with your 20% off coupon, and find some number stamps for $5, get a free flashlight, and those VIN# might magically reappear on the new coupler, just saying. Good thoughts, John. It's not broken. The latch and pawl can be a bit sticky, depending on precisely how the coupler sets down on the ball; sometimes easy, sometimes sticky. If I look up into the coupler at the pawl, there is a slight chip in the edge, but I don't think that affects anything safety wise. Also, it looks like someone added a lip of weld material to the leading edge of the outside of the coupler, possible to protect against bumping during sloppy hook ups? (see photo). One of the problems with this coupler is it is hard to find a good lock that will fit and stay on! Because I think this is a critical security point for any trailer, I've been investigating locks made by the Canadian company, Amplock. They are absolutely the best made and designed and will slow down a thief significantly compared to the conventional locks available. Unfortunately, none of their models will fit on this coupler.
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RinTin
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Post by RinTin on May 20, 2015 8:04:49 GMT -8
I wouldn't use the type with the loop that pivots over front of the ball. If you accidentally back into it in the down position it can bend and bind up, making it difficult to use. I replaced the coupler on my 65 Aloha due to this. My trailer is well under 2000 lbs. and my new coupler is rated 5,000 lbs. Here is the best picture I have of the old coupler:  Here is my new one:  I wish I could say that I made an informed decision on this coupler but I was pressed for time and this is what the welding shop stocked. I have been towing small trailers since my late teens and most have been this type. Never had any issues. |
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John Palmer
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Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
Posts: 1,629
Likes: 576
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Post by John Palmer on May 20, 2015 15:22:53 GMT -8
If it's not broke, I would not change it! I really doubt that any new coupler is as well constructed as a coupler that is still working after 50-60 years. The new steel is not the same. If your coupler is damaged beyond repair, make sure you buy a USA made product like Atwood. They are twice the price of the imported parts, but this is a hard part to replace, and not where you need to save money. If you have a 2500# trailer, you need a 5000# coupler for a safety margin. eTrailer.com orders of $99 or more are free shipping, and they have the best selection in the business. It will be at your house a couple of days. I'll bet you could drop by HF with your 20% off coupon, and find some number stamps for $5, get a free flashlight, and those VIN# might magically reappear on the new coupler, just saying. Good thoughts, John. It's not broken. The latch and pawl can be a bit sticky, depending on precisely how the coupler sets down on the ball; sometimes easy, sometimes sticky. If I look up into the coupler at the pawl, there is a slight chip in the edge, but I don't think that affects anything safety wise. Also, it looks like someone added a lip of weld material to the leading edge of the outside of the coupler, possible to protect against bumping during sloppy hook ups? (see photo). One of the problems with this coupler is it is hard to find a good lock that will fit and stay on! Because I think this is a critical security point for any trailer, I've been investigating locks made by the Canadian company, Amplock. They are absolutely the best made and designed and will slow down a thief significantly compared to the conventional locks available. Unfortunately, none of their models will fit on this coupler.
That's exactly the brand coupler I have on my 1958 Mallard, it works just fine. The welding bead around the front is original on all of these models.
Just use a Master #3 pad lock with a medium length shackle, and don't forget to erase the four digit "key code" stamped in ink on the base of the padlock. Any of the trailer hitch locks can be easily opened. VERY EASY for an amateur, is how I would classify their security. Don't spend more than $20 bucks on a special lock, a pad lock is just as good. You should spend your time and money digging a hole next to your driveway and cementing in a large locking chain that you can lock the trailer to the driveway or storage area. It would be a much better investment of time and money.
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