hutch77
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Post by hutch77 on May 14, 2015 17:35:35 GMT -8
Has anyone on here done a complete restore on a 59 DeVille camper? I need some advice on the walls. I'm a newbie, need help. I hope I'm posting this in the right section. Thanks David
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John Palmer
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Post by John Palmer on May 14, 2015 18:50:17 GMT -8
I'm currently rebuilding a 1957 Deville, so it's not much different.
Pull all the metal, remove the front, rear, and ceiling, replace the rotten wall and floor framing as necessary, then install new paneling on the walls. I like to refinish the new paneling "before the paneling goes up", but to each there own. Then new welting, new (already refinished) ceiling, insulation, vapor barrier, new or reused skins installed beginning with the wall skins.
The cabinets, closet, and front overhead cabinet need to be "securely installed" after the panels are replaced, as they are structural to the framing integrity. They are not just loose interior furniture.
All of this information is covered in much more depth in the history files on this site, and on the video's done by Mobiletech in detail.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on May 14, 2015 20:47:22 GMT -8
Yep. Here's a 58. Complete build on video. www.cannedhamtrailers.com/videos.htmWe have developed some new and better methods for some of it since this one though. Things like curbing.
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hutch77
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May 15, 2015 12:58:05 GMT -8
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Post by hutch77 on May 15, 2015 12:58:05 GMT -8
I'm currently rebuilding a 1957 Deville, so it's not much different. Pull all the metal, remove the front, rear, and ceiling, replace the rotten wall and floor framing as necessary, then install new paneling on the walls. I like to refinish the new paneling "before the paneling goes up", but to each there own. Then new welting, new (already refinished) ceiling, insulation, vapor barrier, new or reused skins installed beginning with the wall skins. The cabinets, closet, and front overhead cabinet need to be "securely installed" after the panels are replaced, as they are structural to the framing integrity. They are not just loose interior furniture. All of this information is covered in much more depth in the history files on this site, and on the video's done by Mobiletech in detail. [br Sorry I didn't explain more about my project, I have it completely turn down. I'm working on the walls, and need measurements from the top where it curves to the bottom. I will try to add photos, I have photos bucket.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on May 15, 2015 14:30:40 GMT -8
Well you can pretty much see where the curve is going. As long as you make both sides the same it doesn't matter if your measurements are exact with the original or not. I don't have mine anymore so I can't help you there. But close will work.
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hutch77
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Post by hutch77 on May 15, 2015 16:22:16 GMT -8
Well you can pretty much see where the curve is going. As long as you make both sides the same it doesn't matter if your measurements are exact with the original or not. I don't have mine anymore so I can't help you there. But close will work. Ok, thank you.
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hutch77
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Post by hutch77 on May 15, 2015 17:29:42 GMT -8
Well you can pretty much see where the curve is going. As long as you make both sides the same it doesn't matter if your measurements are exact with the original or not. I don't have mine anymore so I can't help you there. But close will work. Ok, thank you. Here's a few more pictures
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on May 15, 2015 18:42:33 GMT -8
Yep just follow the same curve you have going to the skirtboard. Looks like you have a perfect template with the upper picture. Just make it the same for both sides.
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John Palmer
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Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
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Post by John Palmer on May 15, 2015 19:21:39 GMT -8
Here's a few more pictures
THANK YOU!
Looking at your photos, tells me you must have read, and understood the many topics discussed on this forum.
You now understand why we suggest that you need to leave the old panels attached until after the wall framing is rebuilt. Without the panels, you have no idea what to built because in many cases the entire framing is so rotten it's completely gone. This is why we are so down on completely gutted trailers and builders that think they can do a stick and tin trailer from the inside.
Looks like your doing a great job, keep it going.
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Post by vikx on May 15, 2015 20:49:00 GMT -8
Here's a picture of one wall on the Cardinal: Very similar build, it's a canned ham. Here is the wall on the trailer: And both walls: Note how the curvy edges are attached and the straight bottom board front to rear. I hope the pictures help you with your build. John is right, good work on your part, keep it up!
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hutch77
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Post by hutch77 on May 16, 2015 17:31:26 GMT -8
Thanks everyone for the great advice and pictures you posted. What do you guys use for the curving as in wood and How do you make the wood curve? Thanks Hutch77
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on May 16, 2015 17:59:59 GMT -8
Thanks everyone for the great advice and pictures you posted. What do you guys use for the curving as in wood and How do you make the wood curve? Thanks Hutch77 On my Deville I used 3/4 inch plywood for the "curbing" and I kerfed it so it would bend easier. But since then I learned that using layers of 1/4 inch plywood works much better and no kerfing needed. Curbing is what goes on top of the paneling to build up the sides to the thickness of the framing. That's how it was done in the old days. Now if the radius framing is made from layers of plywood instead of solid cut planks, you do that also with layers of 1/4 inch plywood laminated and glued and stapled. One layer at a time. Then laminate the next and the next. I just had to do that with the 54 Aljoa. I have some pics.
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hutch77
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Post by hutch77 on May 17, 2015 12:39:53 GMT -8
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