benrogers
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Post by benrogers on Apr 13, 2015 5:36:39 GMT -8
My J channel gutters are more than salvageable and I'm wondering what the best way to remove the paint and polish them is? I tried a wire wheel in a small section and questioned the results a little bit.
Thoughts or experiences?
Thanks, Ben
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azshastanut
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Post by azshastanut on Apr 13, 2015 6:24:04 GMT -8
Paint remover and then steel wool and polish.
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John Palmer
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Post by John Palmer on Apr 13, 2015 7:47:17 GMT -8
Have you priced paint remover lately? Find a local source for new "J" rail and buy new. Then polish the new rail "before" you bend it.
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benrogers
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Post by benrogers on Apr 13, 2015 9:55:40 GMT -8
Problem with doing new rail is it's a '66 compact which has sharp turns and not the graceful round ones.
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mattyshorts
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Post by mattyshorts on Apr 13, 2015 10:56:48 GMT -8
My thought on it is if the rail is already shaped for the trailer , clean off what you have. Paint remover may be at a higher price than what it used to be , but if you are not experienced in bending new rail(which I am not), the added price of paint stripper would be worth it for me....maybe not for the others that have done the bending before. ..but I could be totally wrong. I've made " a lot" of mistakes with my trailer. Live and hopefully learn.-mattyshorts
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RJ
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Post by RJ on Apr 13, 2015 13:56:50 GMT -8
Wire brushes, paint scrapers, box knive, flathead screwdriver, grinder w/wire wheel, steel wool, commercial jack hammer  and final shine up with Blue Magic. I had to use all the mentioned tools when I re-did my J rails/awning channel/wheel well trim on my 72. It was brutal getting all the crap off the PO's had used (black crap, silver crap, various types/applications of silicone, and remnants of ancient civilization butyl putty). If you're not replacing them, I don't think there is any easy way of cleaning them up. I guess I didn't ask... (duh).. Are you taking them off or just cleaning/polishing the outsides? Spose I should have asked before I went on my rant  |
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benrogers
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Post by benrogers on Apr 13, 2015 15:53:22 GMT -8
It was a good rant! I'd prefer to not remove them at this point so my goal is to polish, tape the parts off and then paint the trailer. Probably in late May or June for the paint. It is only latex paint on the rails if that makes a difference!
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ladywendolyn
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Post by ladywendolyn on Apr 13, 2015 16:39:42 GMT -8
Have you priced paint remover lately? Find a local source for new "J" rail and buy new. Then polish the new rail "before" you bend it. How do you polish new? Steel brush on a dremel? |
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benrogers
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Post by benrogers on Apr 13, 2015 16:46:08 GMT -8
I'd assume you'd use a pad on a drill or dremel and polishing compound.
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John Palmer
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Post by John Palmer on Apr 13, 2015 20:18:20 GMT -8
Have you priced paint remover lately? Find a local source for new "J" rail and buy new. Then polish the new rail "before" you bend it. How do you polish new? Steel brush on a dremel? You do not want to put any scratches into the metal with a wire brush. Sometimes the metal needs to be sanded with 320, then 400 first, then the polishing begins.
Before I say anything, I'm not sure using John's "free hand" method outlined here, is the safest way for everyone, but It gives me the desired results. I use a pair of bench grinders set up with different 8" buffing pads. One pad is used with black emery bar (first pass), and softer pad is used with a "special green" bar for final polish for aluminum (second pass). Never mix the polishing grit on the same pads, they need to be dedicated to one grit. I hit he new metal with 0000 steel wool and WD-40, to knock off the dirt, finger prints, and mill oil. Then I use a 1" by 2" backing board behind the thin aluminum metal to give it some stiffness. When I do eyebrows I stack about three of the same size together, so they are not so flimsy. It's LOTS EASIER for me to polish "straight aluminum" trim. Trims that were previously bent/shaped have a tendency to catch or snag on the buffing wheels, which is VERY DANGEROUS. If you fully understand using a grinder, and how important it is to use the "down rotation side" of the wheel, this "free hand" method might work for you. I can do the two polishing passes on a new 16' rain rail in about 15 minutes. I need a helper to hold the ends while I do the middle. At the very least wear a full face coverage safety mask. I use Nitril gloves, because I need to feel and hear the metal as I polish. If you start to get off the edge you can hear it by the sound change. If you do not fully understand what I'm talking about, DO NOT use this method. I buy all my polishing supplies from a local abrasives store.
If you have bent/shaped, or small pieces, it can also be done by screwing the small pieces to a stationary table for polishing.
Polishing aluminum has to be "a close second", to working in a coal mine. I hate polishing aluminum, but it's a required evil.
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ladywendolyn
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Post by ladywendolyn on Apr 13, 2015 20:49:47 GMT -8
Hmmm... I think I better start with something different. We have a bench grinder, but I have no experience with it. I will be polishing all straight new pieces because mine were shot.. so just want to make them a bit more shiny..
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turbodaddy
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Post by turbodaddy on Apr 14, 2015 3:02:14 GMT -8
Because I knew I was going to paint the trailer, I decided to leave the rails in place while I worked on them. They were pretty distorted from over zealous PO over-tightening screws. Mine had all kinds of sticky gooey goop that I cleaned off using various tools and turpentine. This way I could remove screws from a section, work on it and then move on to another. Nice and secure. Once clean, I used a wire wheel (I think 3' diameter /pretty soft one)to "polish". I actually liked the brushed look from the wheel and decided NOT to polish. There is a learning curve with regard to getting a uniform finish.
After they were cleaned up I removed them and used a ball peen hammer on the back side of the rail, supported on a block of wood on the concrete floor to pound out the depressions. When it was time to re-install they needed a little tweaking to get 'em to seat properly, after trimming the new putty tape I used gutter seal on the edges. Then I masked all the rails & painted the trailer. In the end I had good results.
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RinTin
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Post by RinTin on Apr 14, 2015 6:14:18 GMT -8
I'd prefer to not remove them at this point Do you know when the putty was last done? Should be re-done every 5-10 years. |
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benrogers
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Post by benrogers on Apr 14, 2015 7:21:30 GMT -8
It's probably been 5 to 10 years at least. Are you referring to the butyl tape that goes behind it?
Ben
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RinTin
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Post by RinTin on Apr 14, 2015 7:53:09 GMT -8
It's probably been 5 to 10 years at least. Are you referring to the butyl tape that goes behind it? Ben Yes, Butyl or standard RV putty, whatever was used. Paint the trailer with the J-rail removed, saves masking. Hate to see you go through all the trouble and have your putty fail, if it's not already failing. |
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and final shine up with Blue Magic. I had to use all the mentioned tools when I re-did my J rails/awning channel/wheel well trim on my 72. It was brutal getting all the crap off the PO's had used (black crap, silver crap, various types/applications of silicone, and remnants of ancient civilization butyl putty). If you're not replacing them, I don't think there is any easy way of cleaning them up. 
