kamhawk
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Post by kamhawk on May 22, 2017 14:35:38 GMT -8
RinTin, I'm enjoying your thread. Very nice work!
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RinTin
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Post by RinTin on May 22, 2017 16:30:29 GMT -8
Im a little lost on what your plugging the battery charger into via the outlet RinTin Does that plug connect to shore power and you use it to keep your battery topped up? I have erred the thread several times and cant quite figure it out. The receptacle under the dinette seat that my battery maintainer/charger plugs into is wired to my 120v load center. The maintainer/charger leads will be connected to the battery. When shore power is available, the battery maintainer/charger is plugged in and keeps the battery charged. Does that make sense?
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RinTin
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Post by RinTin on May 22, 2017 16:35:23 GMT -8
RinTin, I'm enjoying your thread. Very nice work! Thank you, I appreciate your interest.
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RinTin
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Post by RinTin on May 23, 2017 10:52:29 GMT -8
This work was completed several months ago so my recollection of the exact sequence of events is a little foggy. I suppose I could sort my pictures by date and time to help, maybe I will. But then sometimes I take pictures long after the work was done when I remember a shot needed to tell this story. Oh well, no one's complaining. I didn't take any pictures while installing the curbing. It's just strips of ripped 1/4" ACX plywood glued and stapled to the top of the walls between the roof framing cross members, similar to how the walls were rebuilt earlier. That being said, here's are a few more things that were done around this time: My plan was to replace just the roof metal and re-use the rest. To do so requires aligning the new penetrations for plumbing and wiring with the existing hole locations in the old metal. Originally there was no backing material for the rear lights to screw into; they were fastened only with sheet metal screws through the thin siding metal, which was also how the lights were electrically grounded. Over time the screw holes had become enlarged requiring larger and larger sheet metal screws to fasten the lights, which also compromised the grounding. I wanted to remedy this with some backing to give the screws something solid to fasten to. I laid out the old roof and cut off the lower rear section well above the window opening to allow plenty of leeway for locating the seam of the new roof metal: The metal was indexed to the rear window opening and hung to match the new backing and wire penetration locations to the old metal: Looking at the pictures you can see that by now I had installed the curbing up to the bottom of the window cross framing. Not knowing where the lights were going to land, I had left out the two cross framing members that the backing would attach to until now. With the lights located, the cross framing members and backing for the lights were installed and the wires pulled through. At this time I also finished the framing at the front and rear bottom edges. The pieces were cut and the backsides sealed that mated to the front skirt board: Curbing and bottom edge boards installed: From the side you can see how the plywood curbing terminates. Only solid wood, no plywood, is exposed to the underside of the trailer. I don’t have a good reason for stepping it down the way I did. In hindsight, the corner would be stronger with the curbing terminating on top of the wall sill board rather than stepping it down. Either way it’s better than the plywood running all the way down to the bottom.
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ladywendolyn
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Post by ladywendolyn on May 23, 2017 20:44:40 GMT -8
Im a little lost on what your plugging the battery charger into via the outlet RinTin Does that plug connect to shore power and you use it to keep your battery topped up? I have erred the thread several times and cant quite figure it out. The receptacle under the dinette seat that my battery maintainer/charger plugs into is wired to my 120v load center. The maintainer/charger leads will be connected to the battery. When shore power is available, the battery maintainer/charger is plugged in and keeps the battery charged. Does that make sense? Yes that does. I'm going to show your system to my husband. He is likes doing electrical, which is one of the only things I don't do, (well I can rewire a lamp). So hopefully he can track with what you are saying. We also just bought a 100 watt solar panel, that we want to tie into our system.
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RinTin
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Post by RinTin on May 24, 2017 4:49:03 GMT -8
The receptacle under the dinette seat that my battery maintainer/charger plugs into is wired to my 120v load center. The maintainer/charger leads will be connected to the battery. When shore power is available, the battery maintainer/charger is plugged in and keeps the battery charged. Does that make sense? Yes that does. I'm going to show your system to my husband. He is likes doing electrical, which is one of the only things I don't do, (well I can rewire a lamp). So hopefully he can track with what you are saying. We also just bought a 100 watt solar panel, that we want to tie into our system. Credit Vikx for the battery maintainer/charger set-up, she has been doing this for a long time. I stole the idea from her and put my little spin on it. I left plenty of room to incorporate solar in the future as well. Send your hubby to HandyBob's Blog for a brutally honest look at solar: handybobsolar.wordpress.com/
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RinTin
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Post by RinTin on Jun 1, 2017 12:49:15 GMT -8
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pdalber
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Post by pdalber on Jun 2, 2017 17:07:18 GMT -8
RinTin, first of all, thank-you for this thread! I've been lurking on the site for quite a while and using your pictures and explanations as a guide for my build (which is coming along nicely). I only wish you had made your most recent post a few weeks ago, when I was working on my doors and drawer fronts! I do have a few questions though. I'm guessing you used a dado blade to cut the rabbets and a router for the bevels? How did you avoid tear-out along the edges of the birch panels? Did you use anything to re-enforce the drawer pulls or are they just secured through the 2 layers of 1/8" birch? Finally, did you use drawer slides? If so, what type?
Thanks!
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RinTin
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Post by RinTin on Jun 2, 2017 20:55:36 GMT -8
RinTin, first of all, thank-you for this thread! I've been lurking on the site for quite a while and using your pictures and explanations as a guide for my build (which is coming along nicely). I only wish you had made your most recent post a few weeks ago, when I was working on my doors and drawer fronts! I do have a few questions though. I'm guessing you used a dado blade to cut the rabbets and a router for the bevels? How did you avoid tear-out along the edges of the birch panels? Did you use anything to re-enforce the drawer pulls or are they just secured through the 2 layers of 1/8" birch? Finally, did you use drawer slides? If so, what type? Thanks! I'm glad to hear this is helping, you need to post up some pictures of your trailer. Good questions. As you guessed, I used a stacked dado blade in my table saw to make the rabbets and routed the edge bevels. To avoid tear-out I use the correct type of blade or bit, keep them sharp, and make my passes with the wood grain first before going across the grain. I glued a block of wood in the center of the drawer fronts to support the pulls. I also used a dab of blue Loctite on the pull screws to keep them from loosening up like they tend to do. I did not use drawer slides, to me they just don't look right in an old trailer. My drawers are built a bit heavier than the originals but other than that I pretty much copied the original cabinet construction. The difference is I built to much closer tolerances so the drawers aren't all sloppy.
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RinTin
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Post by RinTin on Jun 3, 2017 17:55:10 GMT -8
The wheel wells on the trailer projected to the rear beyond the end of the cabinets. Originally they were just covered with vinyl flooring which I wasn’t excited about repeating. Instead I decided to box them in as I have seen others do. First I built the frame and sub-top, leaving just enough room between the sub-top and the sleeping platform supports to slip in the laminate. Next the laminate and countertop edging were installed. I didn’t worry about getting contact adhesive way back under the bed supports, it wasn’t going anywhere. Then the box was faced with pre-finished 1/4” birch plywood. The plywood was glued up, slid behind the gimp, and tacked with a few pin nails until the glue set up. I also included a hardwood outside corner just like the other cabinets. The top measures 7” x 14”. Not big enough for a dinner plate but I know it will be useful. While building it I was thinking it would be great to build it as a hidden lock box. It would also be a good place to add some 12v or 120v receptacles. I also made a cutting board to fit the sink.
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Sam
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Post by Sam on Jun 5, 2017 12:42:03 GMT -8
Beautiful work RinTin, and I'm so envious of your spacious workshop!! :-)
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woodwrknman
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Post by woodwrknman on Jun 24, 2017 21:19:19 GMT -8
RinTin Thank you so much for this inspirational thread. I know its a lot of extra work and its greatly appreciated. You are a true craftsman doing exceptional work with a fine eye for the small details. Well done Sir!
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RinTin
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Post by RinTin on Jun 25, 2017 5:30:45 GMT -8
Beautiful work RinTin, and I'm so envious of your spacious workshop!! :-) Thank you. Having a shop gives me an appreciation for the extra effort it takes those who are rebuilding their trailers outdoors under tarps and such. If I didn't have the shop I do not know if I would have taken up this hobby at all.
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RinTin
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Post by RinTin on Jun 25, 2017 5:53:25 GMT -8
RinTin Thank you so much for this inspirational thread. I know its a lot of extra work and its greatly appreciated. You are a true craftsman doing exceptional work with a fine eye for the small details. Well done Sir! Thanks woodwrkman. This is my first trailer, so I am still learning the skills. I consider this one my test mule as I have others in the queue. I've taken my time, given lots of consideration to the process, made plenty of mistakes and learned a ton along the way. I've always been a stickler for details, believing it's the small details that separate a quality job from a mediocre one.
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woodwrknman
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Post by woodwrknman on Jun 25, 2017 8:01:53 GMT -8
RinTin Thank you so much for this inspirational thread. I know its a lot of extra work and its greatly appreciated. You are a true craftsman doing exceptional work with a fine eye for the small details. Well done Sir! Thanks woodwrkman. This is my first trailer, so I am still learning the skills. I consider this one my test mule as I have others in the queue. I've taken my time, given lots of consideration to the process, made plenty of mistakes and learned a ton along the way. I've always been a stickler for details, believing it's the small details that separate a quality job from a mediocre one. I Have a 54 Aljoa in my Queue. It will have to be a frame off rebuild. No vent or back window for who knows how long will do that..! Plan to document as well as you have. Love to hear more details of your successful spray gun set up.
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