mandoman
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Post by mandoman on Feb 16, 2015 13:53:40 GMT -8
Hi all... Does anyone know if a Rocket-type hand pump can be used in conjunction with a 12v water pump? Or would I need to buy a new faucet? Thanks much.
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SusieQ
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Post by SusieQ on Feb 16, 2015 18:25:21 GMT -8
You will probably need a separate faucet for your 12v or you can buy a modern combination. Do you have a city water hook up?
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mandoman
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Post by mandoman on Feb 16, 2015 19:11:41 GMT -8
It does have a city water faucet, but I'd like to keep it as is. The existing pump faucet is new, but still a pump. I've seen the 3 way faucets but they're kimf of ugly. Thoughts?
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SusieQ
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Post by SusieQ on Feb 16, 2015 20:58:22 GMT -8
You are right about the 3-ways being ugly, I have a 2 way that I haven't even installed because I thought it was ugly. I was thinking about using the city water faucet for both. I think there's a thread here somewhere where we discussed it. If someone doesn't chime in, I'll look it up.
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John Palmer
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Post by John Palmer on Feb 16, 2015 21:11:29 GMT -8
I might not understand your problem? But why not use a backflow valve?
On my Mallard, I have the "on demand" 12V pump and the "City" water inlet connected together, with two back flow valves. I do like to hard wire a manual "on/off" switch near the sink, so you can manually turn the water pump off during highway travel. This system supplies water to my sink "cold", my sink "hot" through an in-line heater, and my toilet flush.
I also have the original hand pump, for three different water sources at the sink, although only two show.
These valves are available from VTS. The advantage of using the backflow valves, is that you do not "have to remember" to turn valves on or off, so it's a fool proof system.
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Post by vikx on Feb 16, 2015 22:59:04 GMT -8
The above is correct. The Rocket pump is a hand pump ONLY. If it works, you can keep it. Tee into the original city water connection for a 12 volt pump: 1. The city water inlet should have a back flow to prevent water from running "out". 2. Tee into the tank supply line to the pump inlet and place a back flow in the hand pump line. It might not be necessary but prevents the pump from possibly getting air from the hand pump. 3. Tee into the city water line with the pump outlet line. The pump has a built in back flow. (If a 45psi water pressure regulator is used at the inlet, no need for another back flow.) The black line comes from the tank, tees to the pump, and black goes to the hand pump. (no back flow on this line) The braided line goes to the city water tee. Silver line supplies the faucet. Note: I made the mistake of omitting the back flow at the city water inlet on this trailer, instead relying on a hose "plug". Don't. They leak....
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mandoman
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Post by mandoman on Feb 17, 2015 16:30:57 GMT -8
Wow...thanks guys!!! Ya'll hit it out of the park...again. Vikx...I hadn't considered that kind of setup and it allows me to keep the existing fixtures. ..and here I thought the plumbing was going to be a quick job .
While we're on the subject...are you aware of any plastic original equipment water tanks from the '60s that are not OK to use or that might leach nastys into the water? I have a 15 gallon original tank that is kind of greenish, soft plastic. I know plastics have come a long way in 45 years, but I'd rather not purchase a new tank. Thanks!!!!
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SusieQ
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Post by SusieQ on Feb 17, 2015 17:41:17 GMT -8
If you want to use your original tank, I suggest you do not use it for drinking water if you have any doubts about it. But you could carry drinking water and use your tank water for other stuff like washing hands.
Just my opinion, but when it comes to modern tanks, plastic, acrylic, whatever they are now, even though they are food grade, well, plastic is just not a good choice for drinking water, ever.
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Post by vikx on Feb 17, 2015 22:38:31 GMT -8
I bleach my tanks and make sure they are thoroughly flushed but NEVER DRINK from them, even when new... Any time water is "stored" in a tank, it can become stale. Just not worth taking a chance. I agree, washing is fine.
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mandoman
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Post by mandoman on Feb 18, 2015 8:14:07 GMT -8
Do you carry an additional water tank for drinking when dry camping?....which is most of what I do. If so what material is it? My professional background is in water quality and I had concerns about the old soft tank leaching metals and organics, but I can't see a new tank being much different than a Nalgene water bottle as long as it's sanitized and flushed. Usually harder plastics are more resistant to leaching and have fewer nooks and crannies for things to grow in. I'm not sure what grade of plastic the newer tanks are made of, though. Thoughts?
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John Palmer
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Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
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Post by John Palmer on Feb 18, 2015 8:32:29 GMT -8
Do you carry an additional water tank for drinking when dry camping?....which is most of what I do. If so what material is it? My professional background is in water quality and I had concerns about the old soft tank leaching metals and organics, but I can't see a new tank being much different than a Nalgene water bottle as long as it's sanitized and flushed. Usually harder plastics are more resistant to leaching and have fewer nooks and crannies for things to grow in. I'm not sure what grade of plastic the newer tanks are made of, though. Thoughts? Cut any old tank apart, and you will never want to drink anything again, from a RV tank, they are gross! just my opinion.
It might not be very "green", but we buy a four one gallon water bottles at the 99 cent store for making coffee, or drinking if not connected to shore water. The trailer's "on board" water system is used for washing, and flushing the toilet only.
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chametzoo
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Post by chametzoo on Feb 18, 2015 13:33:17 GMT -8
Do you carry an additional water tank for drinking when dry camping?....which is most of what I do. If so what material is it? My professional background is in water quality and I had concerns about the old soft tank leaching metals and organics, but I can't see a new tank being much different than a Nalgene water bottle as long as it's sanitized and flushed. Usually harder plastics are more resistant to leaching and have fewer nooks and crannies for things to grow in. I'm not sure what grade of plastic the newer tanks are made of, though. Thoughts? Check out the middle of this thread for a nice integrated solution to the drinking water issue, supplied by our friend Vikx. vintagetrailertalk.freeforums.net/thread/2288/fresh-water-tank-sizeI'm doing this in my trailer.
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mandoman
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Post by mandoman on Feb 18, 2015 17:54:47 GMT -8
Thanks Chametzoo... I like the idea, but I'm not sure I have the room under the galley or on that side of the trailer for that matter, to add a removable drinking water option. It's a '69 Lo-Liner.
You guys have obviously never seen (or smelled) my Nalgene water bottles . It probably does come down to personal preference for taste and odor. I get more nervous about metals and bacteria. If you're ever interested in knowing how funky your tank is or isn't, most private water chemistry labs (you can find them in the phonebook) can run a standard analysis for drinking water including bacteria. They'll usually send you the correct sample bottles. I'll probably use the old tank for now with Vikx's fancy T option for the city faucet. Thanks for everyone for your help!!!
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kc
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Post by kc on May 16, 2016 17:17:00 GMT -8
Last year we camped all summer without water in the camper. The P-Trap was rusted out and I never got around to ordering the water tank. Now I need to get it done quickly before summer time and I am behind the ol' 8 ball. Seems as if my local shop that I was counting on for doing this bit of work will not install the water tank so close to the electrical, so it's on me. So I have some questions, and I am confused. First, in my 59 Shasta, should I be concerned about the water tank and the electrical being together underneath the seat? Second, the original hand pump and copper line are intact. If I am only using the water for washing dishes and hands, not drinking, is this safe to use the old lines? Third, I am still unclear... from the above post I just hook up my 12v pump into the hand pump and use a backflow valve in between? Fourth, do I use 3/8 line? Recommendations? Fifth, When I order my tank, Do I need to know anything specific about the fittings? Just 3/8"? What about the water coming in from the outside and the large gravity feed like this? www.vintagetrailersupply.com/Gravity-Water-Fill-p/vts-2208.htmAny suggestions or answers greatly appreciated!?
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Post by vikx on May 16, 2016 22:28:02 GMT -8
Wow. Complicated questions:
1. If the water system is built correctly, no reason that electrical can not be in the same compartment.
2. Old copper lines are often split (from freezing). Don't trust them... really.
3. The hand pump is ONLY a hand pump. It is usable with no pressurized lines. The backflow mentioned means that you will not pump water out of the city inlet with a 12 volt pump via the water tank.
4. I use all 3/8 polytube (not Pex). It fits the smaller pump barbs and is easier to manipulate into tight spaces. Warm the tube before inserting the barb and clamp. Easy Peasy.
5. You will have to judge for yourself on fitting sizes. Be aware that RV hose sizes are not normal plumbing sizes; they vary by 1/8"
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