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Post by wisconsinjoe on Nov 12, 2014 13:10:16 GMT -8
What is the best material for building a new floor, either replacement, or in my case, a new from scratch job? Pressure treated plywood? Some sort of waterproofing coating for the underside of regular plywood? What thickness? Would want finished floor to be some sort of checkerboard tile.
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Post by vikx on Nov 12, 2014 22:17:06 GMT -8
Do you want an insulated floor? If so, you'll need a belly, then wood framing, insulation then subfloor. My latest build was 1/8 Masonite with black waterproofing undercoat. (actually roof coat, water cleanup) The subfloor was 1/2 inch ply, then 3/16 underlayment across for the flooring. Carriage bolts went thru the 1/2 to the metal frame. Underlayment was glued and air gunned.
Was very happy with the Masonite; it seems tough yet has some "breathability" to it. Maybe not Celotex, but similar.
Today's pressure treated wood does not do well with metal. I would use normal exterior ply.
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Post by danrhodes on Nov 13, 2014 13:18:09 GMT -8
Do you want an insulated floor? If so, you'll need a belly, then wood framing, insulation then subfloor. My latest build was 1/8 Masonite with black waterproofing undercoat. (actually roof coat, water cleanup) The subfloor was 1/2 inch ply, then 3/16 underlayment across for the flooring. Carriage bolts went thru the 1/2 to the metal frame. Underlayment was glued and air gunned. Was very happy with the Masonite; it seems tough yet has some "breathability" to it. Maybe not Celotex, but similar. Today's pressure treated wood does not do well with metal. I would use normal exterior ply. Is it possible that my trailer has a single sheet of perhaps 3/4" ply as the floor? I haven't done any removal of the sides, but just from casual inspection, it doesn't seem like it's thick enough for any framing sandwiched. What most worries me is the metal trailer frame stops at the axles, so the entire rear is supported by this thin sheet?
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Post by wisconsinjoe on Nov 13, 2014 15:44:41 GMT -8
Vikx, interesting that you used masonite as the belly. I hadn't thought much about insulating the floor since we don't plan to camp that much beyond early spring or late autumn. Plus, I want to keep height as low as possible.
But what about treated plywood that is insulated from the metal framing with a layer of rubber roofing material?
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Post by vikx on Nov 13, 2014 21:21:31 GMT -8
Dan, I would add framing behind. It isn't as strong with it stopping at the axle...
Some trailers had a simple plywood floor, our Corvette was only 1/2", no insulation. 3/4 would be even better.
WJoe, Today's treated wood is corrosive to metals. It will eat thru bolts over time. Thus, if your floor is bolted down thru the frame, the bolts could eventually rot out. I have used treated wood in the past (before realizing that the *new* stuff was corrosive). Had I known, I wouldn't have taken the chance.
There are some bolts with a coating that are made especially for treated wood, I have no experience with them. Floors don't rot from the bottom up; they rot from above. If the trailer doesn't leak, there is no reason for treated wood.
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Post by danrhodes on Nov 14, 2014 6:27:48 GMT -8
Dan, I would add framing behind. It isn't as strong with it stopping at the axle... Some trailers had a simple plywood floor, our Corvette was only 1/2", no insulation. 3/4 would be even better. WJoe, Today's treated wood is corrosive to metals. It will eat thru bolts over time. Thus, if your floor is bolted down thru the frame, the bolts could eventually rot out. I have used treated wood in the past (before realizing that the *new* stuff was corrosive). Had I known, I wouldn't have taken the chance. There are some bolts with a coating that are made especially for treated wood, I have no experience with them. Floors don't rot from the bottom up; they rot from above. If the trailer doesn't leak, there is no reason for treated wood. Do you think simply bolting new frame members is sufficient, or do I need to find a welder? How do the walls tie to a simple plywood floor?
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Post by wisconsinjoe on Nov 14, 2014 6:47:45 GMT -8
That is an interesting point. So, I could use 3/4 inch AC plywood with some kind of waterproofing on the bottom to protect ftom road spray. Paint that on first, then install? Sounds simple enough.
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Post by vikx on Nov 14, 2014 12:26:19 GMT -8
Dan, I would see if you can get a frame and axle shop to look at your trailer. It sounds as if the manufacturer used wood runners to support the back? That will work, but I do like a little metal back there. I'm far from an expert with frames and welding but I would certainly ask a pro how to add to the frame. Bolting will work but if there's no metal to begin with, it wouldn't be as strong just bolted to the wood runners. Here's one of our Land Commanders with an added middle bar: Of course the Land Commander had metal framing in the back to begin with.
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Post by vikx on Nov 14, 2014 12:30:16 GMT -8
WJoe,
I use two layers of plywood for the floor. (1/2 and 3/16) That way, you have a nice smooth underlayment for the flooring. Plus the ply sheets cross each other, adding strength... 3/4 will also be strong, just a little more work to bury the bolt heads and smooth any imperfections.
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John Palmer
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Post by John Palmer on Nov 14, 2014 21:01:48 GMT -8
Do you want an insulated floor? If so, you'll need a belly, then wood framing, insulation then subfloor. My latest build was 1/8 Masonite with black waterproofing undercoat. (actually roof coat, water cleanup) The subfloor was 1/2 inch ply, then 3/16 underlayment across for the flooring. Carriage bolts went thru the 1/2 to the metal frame. Underlayment was glued and air gunned. Was very happy with the Masonite; it seems tough yet has some "breathability" to it. Maybe not Celotex, but similar. Today's pressure treated wood does not do well with metal. I would use normal exterior ply. Is it possible that my trailer has a single sheet of perhaps 3/4" ply as the floor? I haven't done any removal of the sides, but just from casual inspection, it doesn't seem like it's thick enough for any framing sandwiched. What most worries me is the metal trailer frame stops at the axles, so the entire rear is supported by this thin sheet?
I think you will find that the flooring is not what holds it all together. On the trailer's that use the short frames (ending at the shackles) they have 2" by 3" runners under the flooring that are cantilevered to the rear of the body to hold it up.
It's a poor, cheap construction method. If your rebuilding the trailer, you can buy new channel to finish the framing to the rear for about a $100. It's well worth your time and money. Industrial Metal Supply is the "go to place" in your area. They sell 10' sticks, and will cut to your size if you do not have access to a chop saw, or Saw-z-all.
Add a section of 2" receiver tube while your working on it. Then you will have a place to hang your bicycles on a removable rack.
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Post by danrhodes on Nov 14, 2014 21:05:04 GMT -8
Is it possible that my trailer has a single sheet of perhaps 3/4" ply as the floor? I haven't done any removal of the sides, but just from casual inspection, it doesn't seem like it's thick enough for any framing sandwiched. What most worries me is the metal trailer frame stops at the axles, so the entire rear is supported by this thin sheet?
I think you will find that the flooring is not what holds it all together. On the trailer's that use the short frames (ending at the shackles) they have 2" by 3" runners under the flooring that are cantilevered to the rear of the body to hold it up.
It's a poor, cheap construction method. If your rebuilding the trailer, you can buy new channel to finish the framing to the rear for about a $100. It's well worth your time and money. Industrial Metal Supply is the "go to place" in your area. They sell 10' sticks, and will cut to your size if you do not have access to a chop saw, or Saw-z-all.
Add a section of 2" receiver tube while your working on it. Then you will have a place to hang your bicycles on a removable rack.
Should I be able to see these runners looking under the rear of the camper, because it looks like flat plywood all the way to the axle to me
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John Palmer
Senior Member
Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
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Post by John Palmer on Nov 14, 2014 21:13:58 GMT -8
Should I be able to see these runners looking under the rear of the camper, because it looks like flat plywood all the way to the axle to me If your rebuilding the back of the trailer, need to have the floor out to repair rot, AND have a "short frame", why not fix it like it should have been built originally?It's not hard to weld it when the floor is out and you have access to the top of the frame rails. You need to have a 220V MIG welder to get good penetration on the welds. A small 110V welder is not going to get this job done. Sorry I messed up your post.
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Post by danrhodes on Nov 14, 2014 21:17:38 GMT -8
Should I be able to see these runners looking under the rear of the camper, because it looks like flat plywood all the way to the axle to meIf your rebuilding the back of the trailer, need to have the floor out to repair rot, AND have a "short frame", why not fix it like it should have been built originally?It's not hard to weld it when the floor is out and you have access to the top of the frame rails. You need to have a 220V MIG welder to get good penetration on the welds. A small 110V welder is not going to get this job done. Sorry I messed up your post. Hi John, Just trying to understand this construction method. As far as I can tell, my floor is sturdy and I can't find any evidence of wood framing other than plywood in the rear of this trailer. I am still not entirely sure how the walls are attached to the floor in this trailer and whether the floor could be removed without a frame up rebuild. I am all in favor of reinforcing the metal frame, but what I see right now doesn't match what I read around here, so I'm seeking more knowledge before committing.
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ladywendolyn
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Post by ladywendolyn on Nov 15, 2014 17:16:27 GMT -8
This photo helped me understand how it's attached.. link
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Post by vikx on Nov 15, 2014 20:51:44 GMT -8
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