cheri
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1967 Vanbrook Trunkback
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Post by cheri on Jul 8, 2014 7:18:40 GMT -8
Hi All,
I have replaced the inlet with a 30 amp, put in a new fuse box with 2 15 amp and 1 20 amp breakers, 12-2 wires and new receptacles, I have added a ground bar to the fuse box.
My original wiring did not have a ground wire. I have read differing opinions on running a ground wire to the frame. Do I need to do this. I don't understand how the frame would help discharge stray voltage. Could someone explain this in very simple terms.
Thanks
Cheri
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pathfinder3081
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1971 Shasta Loflyte
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Post by pathfinder3081 on Jul 8, 2014 9:33:05 GMT -8
Unless I am way off base with something else.. Yes you must ground the "grounding bar".. if you don't it will ground through you and knock the snot out of ya.. This can happen when you are touching something and then the appliance or outlet. You said 12-2 wire.. right? there you have a hot wire (blk), ground wire (bare copper) and a floater wire (white).. You want another bar in your load station for floater wires.... You can purchase this seperate and install it in your new load station.. Here is how my 30 amp Load station looked.. If you checkout my thread you'll see how I crossed the "Grounding" bridge. As well as some other helpful threads from this forum that I referenced at the end. They got me pumped up! I had not placed the jumper wire in this pic. But everything else is a go!
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Post by vikx on Jul 8, 2014 23:05:09 GMT -8
Absolutely ground the breaker box/load center to the frame with the copper wire. For sure. The ground bar can be connected (screwed) to the breaker box. The neutral (or floater, as Pathfinder calls it) bar should be isolated from a metal box. Never ground the neutral bar to the frame in a trailer.
In other words, the black wire (hot) and the white wire (neutral) are your AC wires. Do not connect the neutral wires or bar to the frame. The copper wire is the ground. Connect to the trailer frame.
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