kscountrygal
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1960s Comet
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Post by kscountrygal on Jun 19, 2014 21:14:54 GMT -8
Well, I've started on my grand vintage trailer adventure. First, here are a few pre-purchase photos (the PO was using the trailer to store RC aircraft in): imgur.com/a/UAtFdHere are some more photos, post-purchase, after the trailer has been cleaned up: imgur.com/a/X9WvUThe trailer is now at 'the trailer guy' having much-needed repairs done. I've installed new tires, new hubs, new bearings, new brakes, a new 7-pin wire harness, new safety chains, a new Fantastic Fan, and a new MaxxAir vent hood installed so far, and the trailer folks are also gonna 'goop' it and seal it up. (Not fond of goop, but this thing isn't going to be a restoration- just a fun & functional portable hunting & fishing camp.) I'll take pics when it comes back from the shop. Next up is to order and install this Renogy 100W Solar Kit, along with a couple of golf cart batteries (or a single 12v battery). I won't be running much on this battery, just the vent fan and possibly some LED lighting later on. I may tweak the system later, so that I can run my fridge off the house batteries, too. The interior looks like an EPA SuperFund site, but it's gonna have to be serviceable until I can scrape up the $$ to fix up the interior. I plan on using these Fiberglass wallboard panels from Home Depot, along with some styrofoam insulation. ...more to come
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pathfinder3081
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1971 Shasta Loflyte
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Post by pathfinder3081 on Jun 20, 2014 4:08:25 GMT -8
I remember this camper.. It sure did clean up good. It looks roomy too.
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kscountrygal
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1960s Comet
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Post by kscountrygal on Jul 9, 2014 20:06:54 GMT -8
Update time: $800+ later and the trailer FRAME is roadworthy, at least. It got new brakes, new tires, all new 7 plug harness, all the lights are functional, a new safety chain was welded on, and the underbody was inspected. I also had them seal the roof (yes, with goop), install the Fantastic Fan, plus the Maxxair hood. First, a pic taken the day I brought her back from the trailer shop: The door window managed to fall out on my 2nd trip home from the trailer place- which made me SO happy (not!). The light grey U channel holding it in place disintegrated, so the lower glass fell out of its sliding frame. Luckily, the old aluminum screen (without a spline holding it in place, btw) managed to catch the glass and prevent it from falling out of the actual door and shattering. It was pouring down rain, of course, so I quickly threw together a 'ghetto' repair using a sheet of titanium, duct tape, and a black garbage bag. Here's the ugly-as-sin results, lol: I probably should have taken the photo BEFORE I taped it up. Oops. LOL Can anyone possibly help me locate replacement seals for my door? I need those black things, as well as this flimsy light grey plastic U channel that the glass itself rests in. Help? The windows themselves will need all new seals- can anyone please tell me what kind of seals I need? Here are some pics: See the seal that's rotted away at the very top of the window? I need to know what this is and where to find it... I also need to locate the seals for the BOTTOM of these windows- there are remnants of some kind of seal there, but what kind it is/was, I have no idea. There is some kind of grey stuff holding each window in place; over the last 40-50 years, it's shriveled up and pulled away from the window (it's worse on the other windows). I need to find a replacement so that I can ensure no more windows fall out!! I mentioned that the trailer frame is roadworthy- that's true enough, but the CAMPER itself is far from it. I was inside it during a heavy rainstorm, and started poking around. The entire front of the thing is more or less rotted away under the sheet metal, and the back end is just as bad. The sides are iffy, too. There is NOTHING holding the windows in place, except the sheet metal. One of the kitchen drawer supports has pulled away from the rotted wood, and my cute lil' kitchen curtain rod fell down because there's nothing but wet sawdust for it to screw into. I got curious and pulled away that crusty old vinyl...and saw this. (Pic is of the left rear corner) The pics may not show it, but water was literally POURING down the inside of the wall. I haven't sealed the windows, rear & side seams, lights, and J rail, as I plan on removing it later and using either U channel or a combo of U channel and wood to redo the framing. The front of this thing is even scarier: Guys, there is something ALIVE on that wood! I don't know what that is- some kind of slime mold or fungus? But it's gross, and it's in my galley...YUCK! (I nuked it with bleach and Lysol and it's still glaring at me.) The guy at the trailer place said this camper was easily worth 15,000+ if it was done right (which I am starting to question at this point- does that even sound legit to any of you??). I plan on shoring it up enough to make an 800 mile drive to Houston this winter, where my uncle (who has rebuilt tons of RVs, campers and trailers), his sons and I will tear it apart and completely redo it from the frame up. It needs new wiring, the plumbing leaks (of course), I think the freshwater tank leaks, the city water inlet needs to be moved, the gravity freshwater tank inlet is broken, and there's that minor matter of all the wood being rotten. Totally not a big deal...right? hahahaha
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kscountrygal
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1960s Comet
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Post by kscountrygal on Jul 9, 2014 20:18:41 GMT -8
On the positive side, I'm getting much better at backing this thing up and parking it; every time I take it out, I go down to the high school parking lot and practice putting it in a parking space. I can even hitch it by myself! I picked up a pair of "Hitchin' Rods" from Camping World, and they are AWESOME. First time hitching solo, I stuck it perfectly! Seriously, I can not suggest these strongly enough.
I think it's good that things are breaking now (in my folks' back yard) than when I'm on the road...after all, it's sat for a very long time, and all the vibration from being moved is doing a good job of showing me where all the weak points are.
I figure I've gotten my money's worth out of her already, as I've been camped in her and enjoying her thoroughly. The AC works great, except when the sun starts beating down on that bare aluminum- then it's time to abandon ship. I have a portable twin air mattress that fits the slide-out bed, and sleeping on it is ~*heavenly*~ (I have back issues). I just close the curtains and pretend I'm on vacation somewhere, as I can't really take it anywhere for now LOL.
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Post by vikx on Jul 11, 2014 21:44:58 GMT -8
Well, you are really lucky to have an Uncle who will rebuild this trailer for you! It really needs it. The rot you've found is just the beginning.
Unfortunately, "goop" on the roof does not prevent leaks. It is a nice money maker for the RV shops, people think it "seals" but it is used to reflect UV rays and can cause roof metal damage. If you can't remove the goop, new metal is recommended for the rebuild.
Most windows don't leak that badly. They will all need new RV putty as will the J rail/edge trim. You might be able to get some of the seals thru Vintage Trailer Supply, measure the grooves very exactly.
As far as worth, if it is to you, then that's great! Resale value may be different. A 15K price tag is hard to get these days on all but the nicest restorations.
And congrats on learning to back. It will get easier every time...
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kscountrygal
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1960s Comet
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Post by kscountrygal on Jul 12, 2014 18:40:07 GMT -8
Well, you are really lucky to have an Uncle who will rebuild this trailer for you! It really needs it. The rot you've found is just the beginning. Unfortunately, "goop" on the roof does not prevent leaks. It is a nice money maker for the RV shops, people think it "seals" but it is used to reflect UV rays and can cause roof metal damage. If you can't remove the goop, new metal is recommended for the rebuild. Most windows don't leak that badly. They will all need new RV putty as will the J rail/edge trim. You might be able to get some of the seals thru Vintage Trailer Supply, measure the grooves very exactly. As far as worth, if it is to you, then that's great! Resale value may be different. A 15K price tag is hard to get these days on all but the nicest restorations. And congrats on learning to back. It will get easier every time... Full disclosure: 25 years ago I went to aircraft mechanic tech school, and in fact I'm a FAA licensed A&P mechanic. But that was a long, looong time ago, and my specialty was aircraft engines. My uncle has been a mechanic and an engineer for better than 60 years. My dad, who has 60 years' experience as an FAA & military mechanic, along with my brothers (who are also FAA mechanics & are chief inspectors- one at Cessna and the other at Learjet), are also there to help out. This thing *will* be done right. Water flows downhill, of course, and if the rot is already that bad at the window level, I know it's going to be much worse lower down. This will be a major project, but when it's done, it'll be fun, functional AND safe. I don't like doing anything halfway; if you're gonna do it, do it right the first time. I'm keeping a logbook for the camper, just like an airframe (or propeller or powerplant) logbook for an aircraft. This way, everything that is done to the camper is fully documented. All paperwork, receipts, etc will be kept in a waterproof binder along with the logbook, so that if I ever decide to sell this thing, I can justify the price. I will very likely set up some kind of regular inspection routine, just like an annual or 100 hour inspection for an aircraft. All inspections, repairs, etc will be logged as needed. Here are some things I found during inspection that need to be addressed: Electrical: Install new shore power plug- I'm doing this tomorrow, as the current plug is unacceptable & unsafe (ground prong on plug and insulator are both gone) Install GFI breaker Upgrade to 30A service; camper currently has a single 15A breaker and rather questionable wiring done by PO Install outdoor plugs Install 12v system, including solar panel, charge controller and house batteries Install amber running lights along leading edge of roof Replace faded 'beehive' amber marker lights, and tie them into turn signal system Clean and reseal all marker lights Replace all wiring for marker lights as needed Install LED porch and/or step lighting Plumbing:Remove P-trap (no need for it, as the sink drains straight down onto the ground) Install clamps to prevent vibration and stress fractures of the pipe (current pipe is broken due to this problem) Reroute city water hookup Remove and replace gravity freshwater tank inlet Remove and replace freshwater tank lines Remove, inspect, repair and replace freshwater holding tank This thing IS going to take a lot of work, but I believe that we can make it better than original! I mean, there's 4 people with a combined 180+ years' experience as aircraft mechanics to help me with this thing, so it shouldn't be impossible.
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Post by vikx on Jul 12, 2014 21:03:45 GMT -8
All you need is WINGS!!
Sounds like it's going to be a wonderful little trailer. If the pipe you're talking about is to drain the sink, I'd replace it with a more flexible hose type. Also absolutely agree about removing the trap-overkill and annoying in a small trailer.
As said before, we're here to help. Looking forward to that.
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lakewoodgirl
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1954 Lakewood
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Post by lakewoodgirl on Jul 12, 2014 21:56:19 GMT -8
You can travel with me anytime! And, IMO, like with any classic car restoration, pictures of the restoration should be included in the sale of the trailer and should always stay with that trailer through any future sales as well.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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