mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on May 22, 2014 18:36:38 GMT -8
Larry I am sure the nuts out there are grateful that you are staying off of their personal highways because in their opinion you have no right to be there. This is why they run over police and other emergency personal when they are out there trying to do their job. My grand dad used to stay he thought the world was going nuts and if he was alive today he would know it. I just arrived back home and as I came up the highway I watch a car make 15 unsafe lane changes with no signals one of which caused another car to go over on to the berm at 70+ mph to avoid him and he had gained about 200 yards on me in ten miles and I had never changed lanes. I hope he makes it where ever he is going and doesn't hurt or kill someone doing it. And ya see Bill, that's why I can't stand towing. It's like you put a big sign on your vehicle that says HIT ME...
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Post by bigbill on May 23, 2014 5:59:35 GMT -8
I would rather they hit the trailer than my truck.
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Jun 2, 2014 5:31:29 GMT -8
I just received the tint in the mail from Mixol. I think I will start testing over the weekend being that I'm going to be at home instead of going out there with all the crazy people. I'll do a video and hopefully have the results up by Monday. How did you test work out? Did you ever match it? I will be facing the same issues in a month or two. Was it a tinted shellac?
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Jun 2, 2014 13:23:52 GMT -8
I'm getting to it. Things have been moving a little slow around here lately. The days are really warm now so I can only do so much in one day and have 3 trailers to finish up plus videos. Be patient and I will get to it very soon.
Larry
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lakewoodgirl
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Post by lakewoodgirl on Jun 2, 2014 16:13:47 GMT -8
IMO it looks like a milk wash that was clear coated with something. I've been around a lot of different painting techniques and experts (and have even tried some if these things myself). These techniques are done in order to recreate a vintage look and have been done for decades using who knows what!
I like what you're plans are better.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Jun 2, 2014 16:30:35 GMT -8
IMO it looks like a milk wash that was clear coated with something. I've been around a lot of different painting techniques and experts (and have even tried some if these things myself). These techniques are done in order to recreate a vintage look and have been done for decades using who knows what! I like what you're plans are better. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Well this is my first time tinting shellac so we'll see how well it works soon. It's going to be pretty soon because I have to get the main cabinet back into the trailer before I can button it up.
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coloradoan
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Post by coloradoan on Jun 20, 2014 19:10:40 GMT -8
Any luck, Larry? I'm going to need to refinish the ash on the door of my '59 Airflyte and would like it to match the rest of the interior. You're the pioneer!
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Jun 20, 2014 20:16:34 GMT -8
Yep Im finally getting around to that. Just been so busy lately I haven't had a chance. This week I'll be starting to test this stuff. Sorry I haven't gotten to it till now.
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Jul 22, 2014 10:55:14 GMT -8
A small side note for this discussion. I have the same issue of yellowish tint in our shasta compact but our finish is a polyurethane. I called woodcraft and their tech said Mixol will tint poly or shellac but they experimented with it and tinting anything clear takes 2 or 3 bottles to see a discernible difference.
mixol 6 on the color chart does look close. But how much to use will be trial and error with either shellac or poly.
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Aug 6, 2014 19:44:53 GMT -8
As some of you may remember, Larry, me and others have been wrestling with matching the yellowish, light color in some models of the Shasta. I did a little experimenting with Mixol #6 tint added to different options. #6 with natural stain- I mixed for 5 minutes and couldn't get the color to blend with the stain. Like mixing oil and water. #6 with polyurethane- It mixed better but not great. The amber of the poly with the yellowish tint looked a little funky on the birch test board. #6 with clear shellac- mixed best. But the yellow wasn't a great match for the Shasta. On the board you see most diluted, double strength, then heavy tint. The last is a second coat of the heavy tint. My Shasta has a lighter yellowish tint. But here is the rub...when I tested it in a spot that was scraped to see if it blended the colors, it just darkened the raw wood much more than the birch test board. So this doesn't seem to be the answer for me. I have the added issue of polyurethane. Completely sanding off the finish means 25% of a 1/8 panel. Whatever this tint was, it went very deep. I may sand a small out of the way section and try a Penofin stain. The claim to fame for Penofin is that one drop will soak completely through a paint stick. I'll keep you posted.
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Drake
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Post by Drake on Jan 27, 2015 7:56:30 GMT -8
This tread seems to have fizzled out without any good solutions. Did anyone have good results with what they were trying? I just finished making 3 Ash plywood panels from veneer and 1/8" lauan and would like to shellac/finish before I install the ceiling panel to limit it running down my arm doing it upside down. Also working on a 59 Shatsa.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Jan 27, 2015 20:47:02 GMT -8
This tread seems to have fizzled out without any good solutions. Did anyone have good results with what they were trying? I just finished making 3 Ash plywood panels from veneer and 1/8" lauan and would like to shellac/finish before I install the ceiling panel to limit it running down my arm doing it upside down. Also working on a 59 Shatsa. I highly recommend it Drake. That's what I have been doing with the Aljoa and I love the process. Not only am I pre-finishing the panels with shellac, I am gluing two rafters on the back also. 16 inches on center and nothing on the seams. Just the two. When you put the panels across the trailer they generally tend to sag quite a bit in the middle and it makes it tough to install them properly. But with the framing glued on the back they stay supported on their own and installation is a breeze. As far as the ash Mixol thing I was also going to try number 6 which I already have but had to wait due to the eye accident. That was 6 months ago. Guess it's not going to work. Back to the drawing board.
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Jan 27, 2015 21:02:51 GMT -8
This tread seems to have fizzled out without any good solutions. Did anyone have good results with what they were trying? I just finished making 3 Ash plywood panels from veneer and 1/8" lauan and would like to shellac/finish before I install the ceiling panel to limit it running down my arm doing it upside down. Also working on a 59 Shatsa. I highly recommend it Drake. That's what I have been doing with the Aljoa and I love the process. Not only am I pre-finishing the panels with shellac, I am gluing two rafters on the back also. 16 inches on center and nothing on the seams. Just the two. When you put the panels across the trailer they generally tend to sag quite a bit in the middle and it makes it tough to install them properly. But with the framing glued on the back they stay supported on their own and installation is a breeze. As far as the ash Mixol thing I was also going to try number 6 which I already have but had to wait due to the eye accident. That was 6 months ago. Guess it's not going to work. Back to the drawing board. Larry, So the two glued rafters don't reach the outside walls? They are just to offer stiff support? Then the seam is nailed to the rafters reaching from side to side as usually? Drake, I tried 8 different stains, tint, shellac, and poly mixes and just couldn't get it to match perfectly. In the end, I sanded the entire camper down and went with 3 coats of Amber shellac and two coats of clear. The look was great but the sanding/shellac time was painful. Let us know if you find a solution.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Jan 28, 2015 9:36:00 GMT -8
I highly recommend it Drake. That's what I have been doing with the Aljoa and I love the process. Not only am I pre-finishing the panels with shellac, I am gluing two rafters on the back also. 16 inches on center and nothing on the seams. Just the two. When you put the panels across the trailer they generally tend to sag quite a bit in the middle and it makes it tough to install them properly. But with the framing glued on the back they stay supported on their own and installation is a breeze. As far as the ash Mixol thing I was also going to try number 6 which I already have but had to wait due to the eye accident. That was 6 months ago. Guess it's not going to work. Back to the drawing board. Larry, So the two glued rafters don't reach the outside walls? They are just to offer stiff support? Then the seam is nailed to the rafters reaching from side to side as usually? Drake, I tried 8 different stains, tint, shellac, and poly mixes and just couldn't get it to match perfectly. In the end, I sanded the entire camper down and went with 3 coats of Amber shellac and two coats of clear. The look was great but the sanding/shellac time was painful. Let us know if you find a solution. NCC. The walls in this camper are 1 1/4 inches thick. Add the wall paneling and they are 1 1/2 inch thick. So in these cases where the walls are twice the thickness of 3/4 inch thick walls I run the rafters/framing out to just short of 3/4 inches from the end of the panels. That leaves room for 3/4 inch continuous curbing/edgeboard and still allows me to nail/screw the rafters into the top of the wall framing. Then the seam rafters are just nailed and not glued. Paneling is nailed to those as usual. But if the walls were only 3/4 inch thick I would run the rafters/framing all the way to the end and then install the curbing in between the rafters as seen in most of my videos. The Forester I did in Colorado was built exactly like this Aljoa and I ran those rafters to within 3/4 inches of the ends and then installed continuous curbing also. So the decision depends on your wall thickness. Shastas and many other trailers were built with 3/4 inch wall thickness and still ran the rafters to within 3/4 inches of the ends and just toe nailed the rafters into the wall framing. I don't like that type of building because it is just too flimsy. That's why in those applications I run the rafters all the way over the wall framing and put the curbing in between the rafters. This panel has 3 rafters because of the 14 inch hole for the top vent. All the rest only have two. I don't have any pictures of those yet but will be adding more as I go along and I am also doing video on this process for the website.
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Drake
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Post by Drake on Jan 28, 2015 10:47:18 GMT -8
Im going to try putting the framing members on my shellac'd ceiling panel prior to installing it, thanks for the tip Mobiltec.
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