mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Mar 13, 2014 12:58:53 GMT -8
Keep in mind though before you cut ANY side wall metal back, IMHO It looks as though you still have interior wall panel to go up in back and also frame sticks that need to be added too before the exterior skin goes back on. Also bottom back of floor still gets a beveled cut stick that goes along the bottom on back edge of floor before rear skin goes back on also. I wouldn't cut skin back (on Shastas not sure on yours) until the interior wall panel is up and wood framing is complete. Then the metal of the wall skins can be cut back if needed before installing the back skin. Unless I'm reading your pics wrong, and if I am just ignore me like everyone should anyway!! soup Yep... Reframe or add framing, get the side and top paneling in and all framing complete, replaced or whatever and then at the end, if the metal is still riding high you trim it down to the edgeboard all the way around to get the top, front and rear metal on.
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kwaggs
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Post by kwaggs on Mar 13, 2014 17:34:29 GMT -8
When I picked up this camper and started tearing it down that front corner with the gap was stuffed with steel wool to fill that gap. In the rear of the camper the outer skin is 3/4 of an inch over the rear frame as it should be. When the "curbing" is installed the skin will be able to screw to the curbing without any issue. The front hangs over too far creating that gap. Once I install the curbing and trim down that outer skin it will pull that gap closed and will allow the front lower panel to screw to the angle cut framing that runs across the floor under the dinette.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Mar 13, 2014 17:49:46 GMT -8
LOL Someone stuffed old curtains mixed with a lot of white silicone calking down in the gap that was in the front of the 59 Shasta Im working on. I show it in my videos. But that was just the bottom of the front end blowing out. I think they got this trailer airborne and it landed really hard taking out the front lower panel and the skirts on both sides from the wheels back I think it even landed on an angle on the street side with the curb side a bit up in the air. I can't wait to get the main cabinet out to see what damage I have in that area from what ever happened. I can see some on the wheel well already....
You just never know what a trailer has been through until you tear it down. That is why I call the demolition part of the process DISCOVERY... This is when you finally figure out what might have happened in the trailer's past life.
More reasons to tear them down properly. And most small canned hams are built from the inside out. So you take the metal skin off first in the process.
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kwaggs
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Post by kwaggs on Mar 13, 2014 18:01:31 GMT -8
I "Discovered" that I used a lot of swear words trying to get all the painted philips screws out! HAHA! I also discovered 8 dead mice! I am discovering that putting this back together after having it all apart and replacing rotten framing and paneling is not fitting back exactly that way I took it apart but I have to remember it had 50 years of sag and let me just say those 50 years where pretty rough on the ole gal!
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John Palmer
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Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
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Post by John Palmer on Mar 13, 2014 19:02:54 GMT -8
I would agree with Soup. I would not cut anything off the skin until your buttoning it up for the final last time. You have lots to do yet.
It's easy to cut off any excess, but "very expensive" to add it back on!
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Post by vikx on Mar 13, 2014 21:13:07 GMT -8
Soup was right on with this one... Once your panels and crossboards/rafters go on, it will add 7/8 of an inch to the size of the trailer:
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kwaggs
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Post by kwaggs on Mar 14, 2014 2:49:13 GMT -8
That side aluminum hangs over the frame 2.5" there is no way for me to add that much framing and extra wood for that gap to close. It had steel wool stuffed in it to fill it from the po. Once the curbing is on I will be cutting it down and pulling that gap closed.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Mar 14, 2014 6:31:57 GMT -8
That side aluminum hangs over the frame 2.5" there is no way for me to add that much framing and extra wood for that gap to close. It had steel wool stuffed in it to fill it from the po. Once the curbing is on I will be cutting it down and pulling that gap closed. I've been racking my little pea brain trying to figure out what happened to make it do that. I just can't see anything that wrong happening at the factory but then again.... I've seen some pretty weird things come off the line. So far the weirdest and most common has been one wall mounted one inch higher than the other on the frame. This seems like something out of bizzaro world..
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kwaggs
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Post by kwaggs on Mar 14, 2014 7:04:09 GMT -8
Here is the rest of the camper, the Windows all line up with the existing holes, the baggage compartment door opening lines up. The roof line if the camper lines up, it just starts going over the 7/8 or whatever it's supposed to be as it passes over the front(streetside) corner. Here is the streetside picture if the rear corner.
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kwaggs
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Post by kwaggs on Mar 14, 2014 7:15:09 GMT -8
URL=http://s745.photobucket.com/user/bimmerchase27/media/20140313_170412.jpg.html] [/URL] Curb side. It's not sagging because all the window holes line up. There are crazy router marks on the aluminum with big gouged marks out. I don't know why this is hanging over so far but it is. If I measure one side skin front to back should it be the same length as the other side?
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Mar 14, 2014 8:00:33 GMT -8
Geesh I just don't know... Weird for sure.
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cowcharge
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Post by cowcharge on Mar 21, 2014 9:34:36 GMT -8
Sounds like they might have cut the wrong curve in the sides, like they cut it for a Compact when they were building a Deluxe or something, and found out too late to replace it (it was Happy Hour).
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