Darryl the 1967 Serro Scotty

It's a plywood wall, no wall framing is present.

Skin looks in good shape.  Really?  

I'd be curious how he was able to remove the side wall skins "without removing the roof skin first?  It appears in the photos that the roof skin did not lap over the side wall skins.  Maybe we need better detailed photos of how the roof to wall edge seam was done originally.  Did this trailer have "Edge Cap Trim"?

When it comes time to install the roof back on, why would you "chance" having an edge water leak because the roof does not lap over the sidewall?  In the photos, I cannot see any place he had to straighten the roof edge before it was laid flat.  

I'm sure I'm missing something; inquiring minds need to know. 

The process of taking apart a trailer should be renamed DECONSTRUCTION.  It is one of the most important steps in restoration.  It's a slow process that allows you to Analize the detail of how it was originally constructed.  It's the point where you make the decisions of how you will be rebuilding it.  You write your own instruction sheet.  The way the manufacturer originally built the trailer is not always the BEST WAY.  In fact, on the 1950-60's trailer's it was usually the "fastest, and cheapest way" because they were under "pricing pressure" to build low-cost trailers.  

In today's world, all materials are expensive.  It's going to take hundreds of hours of labor to rebuild a Stick and Tin trailer.  It's in the restorer's best interest, to adopt Best Practices Methods of construction.

Just my view,
John Palmer


 

Thank you for the additional detail photos.   They confirm that it was put together with an Edge Cap.  The black gooey putty is I believe Butyl Rubber.  It's a PITA to clean off.  You can cut it with WD-40 and Acetone, it's really messy to work around.  A heat gun just makes a bigger mess.

Roof skins are normally seamed from 4' rolled aluminum.  They call it a Paneled Roof and the type of seams are called ACME seams.  Frankly, I've never seen an ACME seam leak.  

From my view, the problem with the roof is not the seams, but that it was cut "Too Narrow" to allow you to properly bend it over to form the watertight lap seam.  On my trailers I first bent the wall metal over the edge, THEN bend the roof metal over the wall edge.  Double lapped.  Then the edge seam is sealed with a urethane seam sealer like you would use on body panel replacement on a car/truck.

The problem with the high cost for RV aluminum is in the cost to crate it, and the freight cost.  Compound the problems of shipping damage and it's a tough issue to overcome.  If you have any access to a buddy with a mechanical air conditioning/heating shop your golden.  You need a 12' long sheet metal brake.  You can buy the aluminum sheet metal at any metal supply store in nominal lengths of either 10' or 12'.  It looks like your trailer has a 3" or 4" brake pattern which you can easily replicate on a sheet metal brake.  The cost to buy a 4' by 12' .032" is between $125 and a $150.  Your real savings is in being able to pick up the raw metal and not having to ship it.

If I were rebuilding a plywood walled trailer, I would switch the wall framing construction over to a normal 1 1/2" stick and tin wall.  Lots of advantages over the solid plywood.  Leave the plywood walls for the teardrop guys.  

Good luck with your project.

John Palmer