williesrv
New Member
Posts: 5
1969 Boles Aero
Currently Offline
|
Post by williesrv on Jan 23, 2024 17:06:11 GMT -8
I am repairing a 69 Boles Aero for a customer. I am not sure what product would be best to seal the front corner seam. This sealer has failed and is letting water in. The insulation absorbed the water and damaged the interior wall panel. The interior paneling has already been repaired. I was looking at Acryl-R or possibly gutter sealant. I want to make sure I use the appropriate product. The current sealer is not flexible. I do not think this sealer is original as most other seams on the trailer do not have it. I am sure this information is on this forum somewhere, but I did not find it on a quick search. Thank you for any help!
|
|
nccamper
Administrator
Posts: 7,744
Likes: 2,871
1962 Forester- 1956 Shasta
Currently Offline
|
Post by nccamper on Jan 23, 2024 18:00:44 GMT -8
Welcome!
I’m having trouble accessing your photos.
”The insulation absorbed the water and damaged the interior wall panel” If there is rot, it should be repaired before sealing the camper.
“I was looking at Acryl-R or possibly gutter sealant” Goop sealers are a short term solution. And sealant over failed sealers is even a shorter term solution. With that said, gutter sealer in moderation is my choice of the two.
Others will probably chime in.
|
|
John Palmer
Senior Member
Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
Posts: 1,629
Likes: 576
Currently Offline
|
Post by John Palmer on Jan 23, 2024 18:57:02 GMT -8
I am repairing a 69 Boles Aero for a customer. The trailer has water damage along with many other issues. I am not sure what product would be best to seal the front corner seam. This sealer has failed and is letting water in. The insulation absorbed the water and damaged the interior wall panel. I was looking at Acryl-R or possibly gutter sealant. I want to make sure I use the appropriate product. The current sealer is not flexible. I am not sure how to include a photo so here are 2 links. I do not think this sealer is original as most other seams on the trailer do not have it. I am sure this information is on this forum somewhere, but I did not find it on a quick search. Thank you for any help!
You are not giving me much documentation to comment on. The enclosed photos do not show any real damage. One thing for sure is that the Boles Aero (model/year) you are working on is a "Rivet Skin" Boles model trailer (they made both construction styles), and the way it is correctly repaired is exactly opposite of the way the "stick and tin" stick trailers are repaired. The outer skins and wall studs are the structure strength of the walls, not the interior paneling. This repair method is different than what is used on 99% of the stick and tin trailers on this site. It's the way I repair the riveted skin trailers from Spartan, Boles Aero's, Streamlines, Silver Streaks, Airstreams, etc. Your water repair needs to be taken apart; I call it "disassembled" from the inside of the trailer (not the outside). The wet and damaged wood paneling and fiberglass insulation is then removed. The wood furring strips are removed. It is at this point that the repairs on the wall structural body skin and framing is begun. The rivets are carefully drilled out without enlarging the rivet holes in the skin. If you do not already have them, buy some of the special riveting tools necessary for this type of metal work. If you need a tool list, just ask. Any replacement skins that might be necessary for your Boles will be very difficult to locate or fabricate due to their bead rolled pattern. The outer metal was anodized originally further complicating exact replacement panels. After you have repaired the framing damage, replaced any damaged aluminum panels with buck rivets, you need to seal "all the seams" inside the aluminum before the insulation and wood interior paneling is replaced. I have used a urethane seam sealer which is "paintable" not silicone. Just clean the inside surfaces of any loose material, scrap the fiberglass that sticks to the walls and framing, and apply a 1/8" bead of TremPro 635 Urethane with a caulking gun on all overlapping seams. This product never fully hardens which makes it very effective for the constant expansion and contraction of aluminum skin. This is the new (ecological) brand name for a very old product that has been used by body shops doing Airstream body repairs for many years. The old name was Vulcrum (sp?) which was solvent based. Use a solder brush (or old toothbrush) to smear the 1/8" bead. It takes very little urethane material for an effective sealing job. Seal from the inside surface. Don't try to place the urethane between the loose aluminum panels because you will have a mess. It does clean up with acetone. As an example, two or three tubes of the Trempro 635 would seal every seam on an entire trailer. It's by far the lowest cost sealer I have found. Just store it inside your refrigerator so it does not harden inside the tube. Never leave it sitting in the sun. All the skin seams were originally sealed from exterior water. The various brands used different methods. The most commonly used during the 1950's and 60's was what looked like black friction tape placed between the panels before they were riveted. I can only assume tape had some kind of long-gone butyl sealer strip. Good luck with your repairs. John
|
|
williesrv
New Member
Posts: 5
1969 Boles Aero
Currently Offline
|
Post by williesrv on Jan 24, 2024 8:52:19 GMT -8
Welcome! I’m having trouble accessing your photos. ”The insulation absorbed the water and damaged the interior wall panel” If there is rot, it should be repaired before sealing the camper. “I was looking at Acryl-R or possibly gutter sealant” Goop sealers are a short term solution. And sealant over failed sealers is even a shorter term solution. With that said, gutter sealer in moderation is my choice of the two. Others will probably chime in. Thank you for your input. The inside has already been repaired. The customer wanted us to dismantle as little as possible to address the issue. The current issue is that the sealer which was applied to the outside seam is leaking. The seam is where the front corner is installed. There is a gray seam sealer which is no longer connected to the 2 pieces. I have attached a photo using a different program which now should be visible.
|
|
williesrv
New Member
Posts: 5
1969 Boles Aero
Currently Offline
|
Post by williesrv on Jan 24, 2024 8:58:26 GMT -8
Hi John, Thank you for the information. This is trailer that was "restored" by the previous owners who did a very poor job. I was asked to fix a leak in the plumbing and fix the entry door from not closing properly. All of the structure for the door frame has been repaired on the inside. The customer is not interested in removing the interior to address any leaks. The photos only show the current seam sealer where the front corner cap meets the side wall. The gray sealer has failed and needs to be replaced. I would like to know recommendations for removing the old sealer and installing the new correct sealer. Based on your previous suggestions however, it sounds like the correct repair is to remove the interior from the trailer and start over by sealing it from the inside. My customer will not pay for that level of repair. I am happy to send any other photos that would help. Thank you very much for taking the time to help me.
|
|
John Palmer
Senior Member
Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
Posts: 1,629
Likes: 576
Currently Offline
|
Post by John Palmer on Jan 24, 2024 10:26:35 GMT -8
Willie, it sounds like you are in a tough position. As a professional shop, you are being asked to make repairs to trailer that has already received poor repairs, AND they have now failed again. From what you are telling me, the customer will not allow you (pay you) to repair the trailer in a manner that will result in a long-lasting repair from water intrusion. Riveted skin trailers do not seal the skin seams by slopping a sealant on the outside of the aluminum joint. Unfortunately, sealant exposed to the sun UV rays will dry and crack in a short time, and the leak will continue. The external sealants are just a band aid at best buying a little more time before they fail again.
I ask you, if you choose to patch up this repair "doing the customer a favor", do you want your professional shops reputation attached to the patch job repair? In my experience wrenching for more than 50 years on vehicles these kinds of repairs always come back and bite you in the Butt. The customer will never be happy as long as the trailer continues to leak. They will never remember you told them it was only a patch repair, and you did them a favor.
My best advice is to NOT do any repairs that you cannot guaranty and stand behind.
Sorry I could not give you a simple quick solution to your problem.
John Palmer
|
|
hotrodjim
Junior Member
Posts: 80
Likes: 8
Currently Offline
|
Post by hotrodjim on Feb 10, 2024 5:35:03 GMT -8
I’m no expert. But always been told once you touch it you now own it.
Document this and present it back to your customer, if they’re not willing to do it right don’t do it.
Like others have mentioned it will come back to haunt you.
|
|