Post by JunkintheTrunk on Jul 25, 2023 16:29:48 GMT -8
Hi everyone! We are renovating a 1967 Trailblazer. She's about 19' long and we are realizing why most people renovate tiny ones... this work is no joke! I've been reading and learning on the forums for several months, but imagine I will be posting questions more, as we are moving into the rebuilding phase. Our trailer was in rough shape and is getting a complete rebuild. We started to dismantle the trailer in January and spent a lot of time taking measurements, photos and creating a Sketchup blueprint. We then spent MONTHS trying to find a company to replace the axles, brakes and wheel drums. We got her back in mid June and I sanded and painted the frame with POR-15. Last weekend we built the flooring frame and this week I hope to get to the next steps to rebuild the floor.
We are going to follow Vikx's method - Masonite hardboard as the belly pan painted with Black Beauty fence post paint, rigid foam insulation sheets in between floor framing and 3/4" plywood for the subfloor.
I have a few questions about this method - apologies in advance if these are silly...
1. Is there a particular side of the Masonite that should face the ground? I'm mostly concerned that the shiny, finished side will not accept the paint well, but it seems like the logical side to face the ground.
2. I've seen some recommendations for two layers of plywood - 1/2 inch and 3/16 inch. Is this preferrable to one solid 3/4 inch piece of plywood? What about tongue and groove plywood, would this be better than just regular sheets?
3. Our wheel wells were initially secured underneath of the belly pan (a soft, black sheet that was literally falling apart). Would it be advisable to attach them on top of the subfloor now? I didn't notice any extreme rot where the wheel wells were, but it did make removing the floor REALLY hard and that means putting it back will be equally hard.
4. Finally, I've been looking at flooring, as most options I like will need to be ordered and shipped. Has anyone used peel and stick vinyl tiles with additional permeant adhesive with good results? That is what I'm leaning towards right now, but don't want to choose a product that will fail.
Cheers!
We are going to follow Vikx's method - Masonite hardboard as the belly pan painted with Black Beauty fence post paint, rigid foam insulation sheets in between floor framing and 3/4" plywood for the subfloor.
I have a few questions about this method - apologies in advance if these are silly...
1. Is there a particular side of the Masonite that should face the ground? I'm mostly concerned that the shiny, finished side will not accept the paint well, but it seems like the logical side to face the ground.
2. I've seen some recommendations for two layers of plywood - 1/2 inch and 3/16 inch. Is this preferrable to one solid 3/4 inch piece of plywood? What about tongue and groove plywood, would this be better than just regular sheets?
3. Our wheel wells were initially secured underneath of the belly pan (a soft, black sheet that was literally falling apart). Would it be advisable to attach them on top of the subfloor now? I didn't notice any extreme rot where the wheel wells were, but it did make removing the floor REALLY hard and that means putting it back will be equally hard.
4. Finally, I've been looking at flooring, as most options I like will need to be ordered and shipped. Has anyone used peel and stick vinyl tiles with additional permeant adhesive with good results? That is what I'm leaning towards right now, but don't want to choose a product that will fail.
Cheers!
