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Post by Teachndad on Feb 6, 2022 4:54:06 GMT -8
Hi Friends, We have been working on rebuilding the entry door on my Rod and Reel. The bottom horizontal internal frame support was long gone having rotted and fallen out. I still had the bottom trim piece, however. So these doors were never weather sealed as far as I can tell. At the corners where the trim pieces butt up against each other, they have a gap as seen below.
I can seal those with gutter seal at the top of the door. But, what about at the bottom of the door corners? The trim slips over the skin. Let’s present this scenario: Imagine a driving rain with wind gusts and the rain is blowing against the door and running down the front surface of the door. The trim piece acts like a funnel and the water then leaks/seeps down into the bottom of the wood frame and gathers. It feeds the rot gods. This is probably what caused it to rot in the first place. The image below has the arrow pointing to the top of the trim piece. Unfortunately, the door is on its side, but imagine it’s vertical. I didn’t have an image of the door placed vertically. So, under this scenario, the water could pool (I guess). If I gutter sealed the corner trim on the bottom, then I think the lower horizontal internal frame support would begin to rot. The water couldn't leak out the bottom of the of the door because I have essentially created a tray for the water to collect. If that is what happens, then would it then be better to just leave those corners unsealed so the water could leak out, and rot would be minimized? We did paint the internal door frame. This all reminds me of the debate of whether or not to seal the underside of the floor. Cheers, Rod
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Post by vikx on Feb 6, 2022 13:14:35 GMT -8
The door should not be sealed at the very bottom. If the water can drip out, then the framing will dry in the hot sun, especially in California. Also, do not store the trailer in the elements when not being camped in. Bouncing down the road keeps water from pooling...
This is not the same as sealing the underside of the floor. The floor has areas to breathe even if sealed on the exposed side. The coating there is more for dirt and debris than a seal against water. Depending on the material used, the coating protects against holes and provides a strong under belly for Celotex. I don't seal my runners completely underneath, as they too, need to breathe.
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nccamper
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1962 Forester- 1956 Shasta
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Post by nccamper on Feb 6, 2022 19:24:40 GMT -8
FYI...I wrap my doors in Tyvek.
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Post by Teachndad on Feb 6, 2022 21:09:52 GMT -8
FYI...I wrap my doors in Tyvek. Hmmmmm.... I didn't think of that. Unfortunately, the panel is already nailed to the door frame. I will have to shellac the door paneling while it's on the door frame. But for the sake of discussion, doesn't the Tyvek make it a lot harder to get the door trim in place because you have to slide and clamp the door trim over the Tyvek? I had a pretty difficult time getting the trim on for a dry fit to take pix of the corners. The door trim will be removed again though because the two vertical trim sections have to be replicated. That will be discussed in another thread when this is all finished. Vik, Do we need to seal the the trim at the top corners of the door or do we leave those open like the bottom corners? Thank you both. Rod
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Post by vikx on Feb 6, 2022 21:40:33 GMT -8
Seal the top and any nail/staple divots with thin gutter seal, both sides too. You can also seal the hinge screws if you want to.
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nccamper
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1962 Forester- 1956 Shasta
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Post by nccamper on Feb 7, 2022 6:01:56 GMT -8
I agree with vikx, leave the bottom open.
Tyvek didn't make it much harder to get together. It's very thin. My last Shasta had some sort of vapor barrier on it but many don't.
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