chametzoo
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Post by chametzoo on Aug 20, 2021 13:39:34 GMT -8
Single axle, of course. I know framing will differ from trailer to trailer, but I'm looking for some general rules when hiking one side of the trailer up while it is still coupled to the TV. I saw a tire shop do this to my coupled trailer once, but I don't quite remember where they put the jacks. I'm pretty sure there was one jack for the tire side and another to support the trailer frame at another location on the other side... keeping in mind that the coupler is pinned to the TV with limited flexibility at that point. In seemed to go very well... no damage, etc.
I am planning on getting 2 Alltrade jacks (combo bottle/jack stand). I'm also getting a Smittybuilt 12V compressor because my tires can't get under the skirts inflated. To avoid this, I've looked into scissoring the axle/frame open a bit, but there isn't enough room for a scissor jack. Bottom line: I want to be self sufficient with regards to tire incidents while on the road. I've had too much good luck so far! I live in the west, and sometimes you have to drive forever to find a shop that can help or be open when you need them. Any experienced road warriors... I'd love to hear from you. Mike
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chametzoo
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Post by chametzoo on Aug 25, 2021 13:14:05 GMT -8
This should be an easy one. Share yer wisdom folks ;-) Most appreciated.
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PT
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Post by PT on Aug 26, 2021 9:08:05 GMT -8
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chametzoo
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Post by chametzoo on Aug 26, 2021 10:43:00 GMT -8
Thanks a bunch PT! I vaguely remember participating in that very useful thread (in 2014!) around the time I first got into vintage trailering. Embarrassed to say I haven't attended to this detail until now! Been relying on AAA. But my Maxxi trailer tires have performed flawlessly so far. FYI, the Alltrade combination bottle/jack stand product I mention above is nice because it raises the trailer then provides sure stability once the bottle jack portion reaches desired height. I have one on order. Unfortunately on my '60 Mobile Scout, the tires can't be put on when inflated , so I will also be carrying a Smittybuilt 12V compressor. Not a bad thing to carry anyhow so I can top off the tires at any time, anywhere. Living in the mountain west, I find myself far from services sometimes! I've even considered carrying an extra gallon or two of gas... I've come awfully close to running a low a couple of times.
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Post by Teachndad on Aug 28, 2021 5:52:26 GMT -8
HI Friends,
Okay. So, now I am confused. If I place a jack under the springs, then wouldn't that compress the suspension forcing the wheel to stay up in the wheel well? Some of us with tight wheel well clearances need all the axle drop we can get.
I carry a scissor jack purloined from my Sienna before I donated it to the junkyard. It's easily strong and stout enough to raise the trailer. I always carry a large block of wood with me too to place the scissor jack base on top of. It's a 4 x 6 over a foot long. My jack point is just aft of the rear spring seat on the trailer frame. Lifting the opposite wheel can help buy a little more axle drop.
Carrying a floor jack on a trip takes up a lot of space and they are hard to maneuver and just plain old heavy, but some people do carry them.
Just an aside, I bought one of those scissor jacks from Harbor Freight to help with some frame work I was doing on my Westerner and it's junk. It's rated for a car, but I would never ever use it on a car. MAYBE on a trailer, but it doesn't have the stoutness or rigidity of the stock Toyota Sienna jack I have.
Finally, my Ridgline came with a bottle jack, so I can use that too. The 4 x 6 is so important to for gaining lift. Make sure you have one with no splits in it.
Rod
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chametzoo
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Post by chametzoo on Aug 30, 2021 9:51:50 GMT -8
Okay. So, now I am confused. If I place a jack under the springs, then wouldn't that compress the suspension forcing the wheel to stay up in the wheel well? Some of us with tight wheel well clearances need all the axle drop we can get. Yes... that's true. Some vintage models have generous wheel well/skirt clearance, but most don't; like mine. Modern RV's are a cinch with tire clearance. It has been suggested that once the trailer side is jacked up (under a frame point... not under the axle), you can insert a scissor jack between a frame member and the axle to expand the spring and allow better clearance for a fully inflated spare tire. In my case I cannot do that either, because I can't fit the scissor between the axle and the frame and I don't want to use the floor itself as a bearing point. In short, that is why I need to carry a 12V pump to inflate the spare after it is put in place. And this is what I've got even after flipping the original axle/spring configuration and gaining about 3 or 4 inches!
I think part of the aesthetic of the 50's/60's vintage trailers is the effect of it "hovering" low over the ground in all it's streamlined/canned ham beauty!... without regard for changing tires... LOL.
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PT
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Post by PT on Aug 30, 2021 19:40:51 GMT -8
Hey all - read all of JP's description in the link provided. After using the axle as a jack point you then place a jack stand under the frame and lower the trailer so the axle hangs down. I know the axle is not recommended as a jack point for modern trailer monstrosities but John knows vintage trailers, Big Bill gives him kudos and that's good enough for me
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chametzoo
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Post by chametzoo on Sept 1, 2021 9:33:36 GMT -8
Hey all - read all of JP's description in the link provided. After using the axle as a jack point you then place a jack stand under the frame and lower the trailer so the axle hangs down. I know the axle is not recommended as a jack point for modern trailer monstrosities but John knows vintage trailers, Big Bill gives him kudos and that's good enough for me I'm wondering, why use the axle as the jack point, then switch to the frame with a stand? Why not just jack up from the frame point and replace with a stabilizing jack? You can accomplish that in one step with one of these, which combines a ratcheted jack stand with a bottle jack: I didn't notice in John's post what the advantage of jacking at the axle is... or what the disadvantage would be for jacking at an appropriate frame point? I would imagine that there might be less twist force put on the trailer frame if one used the axle/spring combination as the jack point, but I'm not convinced of that. Can anyone get into the physics of why there might be an advantage to trailer frame integrity for either jacking location method?
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Post by bigbill on Sept 1, 2021 10:21:20 GMT -8
A lot depends on what type of jack you are using and what the jack is sitting on. Example you have a scissor jack and you are jacking the trailer up at the frame, so now the jack is up 6 or 8 inches then you raise the trailer up till suspension drops to max maybe 3 to 5 inches, then you need to raise 5 to 8 more inches to get new wheel on. So now you have jack extended say 17 to 24 inches which leaves it VERY unstable. Now if you lift it under the axle you won't have to extend the jack near as far (much safer). Also buy a good jack stand and I would suggest getting a piece of 3/4 plywood about 4 or so inches bigger than the base of the jack stand to make it more stable. I have even seen them sink into asphalt let alone dirt or gravel. Safe travels
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chametzoo
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Post by chametzoo on Sept 1, 2021 11:45:01 GMT -8
A lot depends on what type of jack you are using and what the jack is sitting on. Example you have a scissor jack and you are jacking the trailer up at the frame, so now the jack is up 6 or 8 inches then you raise the trailer up till suspension drops to max maybe 3 to 5 inches, then you need to raise 5 to 8 more inches to get new wheel on. So now you have jack extended say 17 to 24 inches which leaves it VERY unstable. Now if you lift it under the axle you won't have to extend the jack near as far (much safer). Also buy a good jack stand and I would suggest getting a piece of 3/4 plywood about 4 or so inches bigger than the base of the jack stand to make it more stable. I have even seen them sink into asphalt let alone dirt or gravel. Safe travels Thank you Bill. The scissor jack example is quite extreme. The safety with any jack (for lifting the trailer) depends on putting it on a stable base that spreads the load... and not overextending it. Also true for a stabilizing jack.
I'm still not finding a compelling reason to split the jacking up and the stabilizing between a frame point and the axle. Except of course if your fender clearance on your trailer is extremely tight and you don't want to bother with deflating/inflating your spare. That would probably rule out axle jacking for raising the trailer. I think John's original explanation was procedural and worked for him and his trailer fender clearance... and I'm not at all surprised it worked faithfully in that situation.
My continuing concern (and not a really big one at this point) is if there is a "healthier" way to jack one's trailer up: frame near the wheel... or axle. That is, will one method or another, relieve the steel trailer frame from too much "twist"... as it is grounded at the other wheel and at the coupler. I suppose, at the coupler, the TV will give a bit with some uplift that would compensate for some of that twist.
It goes without saying, from most sources here (including John's) is that after jacking, you should stabilize with a jack stand and not rely on the bottle/scissor/whatever jack you use to lift the trailer.
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chriss
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Post by chriss on Sept 11, 2021 10:54:19 GMT -8
If you keep the trailer hooked to the tow vehicle with the parking brake on, then it's going to be plenty stable to use a scissor or bottle jack to change a tire. I don't find jack stands to be necessary for tire changing, assuming you aren't crawling underneath for some reason. I agree just carry a scissor jack and jack the frame just aft of the rear spring hanger. I never heard of a tire having that tight of a fit on a trailer, so new one on me. Can you get enough axle drop by jacking the frame?
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