Post by wisconsinjoe on Sept 18, 2020 8:24:56 GMT -8
Several folks have commented on "folks with great shops" like me. Yes, I feel pretty lucky to have this. But, some of my favorite tools are ones that can fit into most anyone's work area. Even if that means moving the car out of the garage.
Even though I have a nice heavy 3hp table saw, I still find it difficult to manage plywood sheets. My solution is to cut them down to near size and final cut the smaller, more narrow, and easier to manage pieces on the table saw. That's where the track saw comes in. The bonus is that with one particular home-made tool, you can get accuracy that is as good, sometimes better even, than the table saw.
There are many on the market now, and some are quite expensive. The one I have is no longer in production, but I've seen something similar online. You should expect to pay upwards of $300 for everything you need. Yes, you can make your own from ripping a piece of plywood and applying a straight guide to run your saw against (using the cut-off line as your cutting guide). I had done that for years, but always found that eventually that line got damaged from user error or multiple use.
The trick to the best of the designs uses an extruded aluminum track with a base that attaches to a dedicated circular saw that runs on the track (not the plywood). Look for one that uses a vinyl strip at the cut line. That will help prevent tearout of (often very thin) top veneers. The underside never chips out because the blade cuts down on it, but the top side has the blade exiting, thus chipping.
20200912_140247 by Joe Mirenna, on Flickr
This is set up to cut to size needed for the first sheet of kerfed plywood to start the bend from the bottom rear. The off-cut will be used to position the piece on the camper side walls and to test the bending properties.
20200912_134914 by Joe Mirenna, on Flickr
Here is the full set-up you might want. Notice there are two tracks, actually three (2 are joined to make one long one). So, I can now rip or cross-cut any sheet of plywood. You can also see two under track clamps to hold down onto the plywood, the dedicated saw with a fine blade attached to the base that runs on the track, and a homemade accuracy gauge that I'll explain below.
20200912_135743 by Joe Mirenna, on Flickr
20200912_135038 by Joe Mirenna, on Flickr
With this gauge, you can be as accurate as the thickness of a pencil line. Here is how it works: Mark your cut line and then mark another line 10 inches back (shorter) than that. When you set up the track close to your cut-off marks, start clamping the track in place. Then use the gauge, which you made to show a measurement EXACTLY 10 inches shorter. Move your clamps to accommodate THAT LINE, not the real cut-line shown by the boogered up vinyl strip. Then cut away. You will be amazingly accurate. At least as accurate as your measuring and marking.
Yes, it takes more time to set up and execute. But I like accuracy.
The other thing that you really need is a proper cutting table. Yes, expendable 2x lumber across sawhorses can work. But a better and versatile solution is to make a cutting table. Mine was made with some leftover 1/2 inch plywood strips, half notched at the intersections. I made mine 7' x 3', which sets securely on four sawhorses and provides a stable flat surface that can be cut into and still maintain its flatness. Bonus is it stores flat up against a wall.
I've also use this as a base for laminating flat panels. For example, I just glued some of the pre-finished 1/4 inch plywood to 5/8 inch plywood for the closet and kitchen panels that are important to the camper structure. I first lay down some pieces of melamine shelving (which is very flat, unlike plywood), then the pieces to be glued, then more melamine, blocks, and clamps. Because you are starting out FLAT, even your warped plywood finishes out flat once the panel is glued.
20200912_140938 by Joe Mirenna, on Flickr
Even though I have a nice heavy 3hp table saw, I still find it difficult to manage plywood sheets. My solution is to cut them down to near size and final cut the smaller, more narrow, and easier to manage pieces on the table saw. That's where the track saw comes in. The bonus is that with one particular home-made tool, you can get accuracy that is as good, sometimes better even, than the table saw.
There are many on the market now, and some are quite expensive. The one I have is no longer in production, but I've seen something similar online. You should expect to pay upwards of $300 for everything you need. Yes, you can make your own from ripping a piece of plywood and applying a straight guide to run your saw against (using the cut-off line as your cutting guide). I had done that for years, but always found that eventually that line got damaged from user error or multiple use.
The trick to the best of the designs uses an extruded aluminum track with a base that attaches to a dedicated circular saw that runs on the track (not the plywood). Look for one that uses a vinyl strip at the cut line. That will help prevent tearout of (often very thin) top veneers. The underside never chips out because the blade cuts down on it, but the top side has the blade exiting, thus chipping.
20200912_140247 by Joe Mirenna, on FlickrThis is set up to cut to size needed for the first sheet of kerfed plywood to start the bend from the bottom rear. The off-cut will be used to position the piece on the camper side walls and to test the bending properties.
20200912_134914 by Joe Mirenna, on FlickrHere is the full set-up you might want. Notice there are two tracks, actually three (2 are joined to make one long one). So, I can now rip or cross-cut any sheet of plywood. You can also see two under track clamps to hold down onto the plywood, the dedicated saw with a fine blade attached to the base that runs on the track, and a homemade accuracy gauge that I'll explain below.
20200912_135743 by Joe Mirenna, on Flickr20200912_135038 by Joe Mirenna, on FlickrWith this gauge, you can be as accurate as the thickness of a pencil line. Here is how it works: Mark your cut line and then mark another line 10 inches back (shorter) than that. When you set up the track close to your cut-off marks, start clamping the track in place. Then use the gauge, which you made to show a measurement EXACTLY 10 inches shorter. Move your clamps to accommodate THAT LINE, not the real cut-line shown by the boogered up vinyl strip. Then cut away. You will be amazingly accurate. At least as accurate as your measuring and marking.
Yes, it takes more time to set up and execute. But I like accuracy.
The other thing that you really need is a proper cutting table. Yes, expendable 2x lumber across sawhorses can work. But a better and versatile solution is to make a cutting table. Mine was made with some leftover 1/2 inch plywood strips, half notched at the intersections. I made mine 7' x 3', which sets securely on four sawhorses and provides a stable flat surface that can be cut into and still maintain its flatness. Bonus is it stores flat up against a wall.
I've also use this as a base for laminating flat panels. For example, I just glued some of the pre-finished 1/4 inch plywood to 5/8 inch plywood for the closet and kitchen panels that are important to the camper structure. I first lay down some pieces of melamine shelving (which is very flat, unlike plywood), then the pieces to be glued, then more melamine, blocks, and clamps. Because you are starting out FLAT, even your warped plywood finishes out flat once the panel is glued.
20200912_140938 by Joe Mirenna, on Flickr
