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Post by allthethings00 on May 14, 2020 7:39:05 GMT -8
Hi friends, My running lights on my old camper aren't working. After I gutted the camper, ran the trailer lights before building the camper back out...they worked just fine. A few of the side lights were out, but they just needed new bulbs. I did the rebuild, took about a year longer than expected . I checked the lights yesterday and now the running lights are not working. Brake lights and turn signals are on, but no running lights. When I turn the lights on in my truck, it immediately blows a fuse. It's not my truck, I tested it on another camper and works just fine. I've read there must be a short in my trailer wiring somewhere, or that perhaps its a grounding issue. Only thing I know to do is retrace it where I can. I really don't want to rip the walls out completely. But going thru cabinets and looking where the wires are actually connected I can try. Wanted to see if anyone has any suggestions, or if you've had this problem before. Thanks for all replies.
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nccamper
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1962 Forester- 1956 Shasta
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Post by nccamper on May 14, 2020 10:35:44 GMT -8
Assuming there are no splice points in the walls, and assuming the hitch wiring harness is not defective and the junction box isn't the issue...
First I'd pull the lights one at a time and check that the hot line isn't shorting on the skin. All good?
Next, if they are run in a series (light a, to b, to c, etc), pull the first light and disconnect all lights beyond that point. If the one light works (the rest are obviously off) reconnect the hot line for the series and move to the next light. Disconnect everything past that point. If the fuse blows, you know the short is between those two points. If not, move on to the next point. Etc.
Does that make sense?
If you ran a screw into a hot wire you'll at least know where in the series it happened and you can work from there.
Others may have different suggestions.
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Post by allthethings00 on May 14, 2020 11:59:07 GMT -8
Let me add, I have a junction box I got from trailer, that connects all trailer wires to my truck. For trailer lights I have two brown wires that run the length of each side connecting to al running lights. These two brown wires attached to the running lights pole in the junction box, along with the green/running lights from wires already in junction box. Green trailer wire is hooked up to right tail light, yellow to left. The junction box is strange, the red pole is for left tail light which my yellow is on. The yellow pop is aux, and I’m not using that. So it’s green to brown, brown to green if that makes sense.
The video for the junction box, from the trailer they have 1 brown, 1 green, 1 red, and 1 white. Now I’m confused. I’m just first trying to see if it can be solved from the junction box before I look into anything else
Thanks
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Post by vikx on May 14, 2020 22:44:17 GMT -8
I agree with NC, even one copper "hair" can blow a fuse... Oh, and I know about wayward screws too. Do not use your truck to test wiring on your trailer. Use a portable battery as described here: vintagetrailertalk.freeforums.net/thread/11040/testing-trailer-wiringAre you using a 7 way cord on your trailer? Most modern vehicles have a 7 way recepticles. I think the wiring could be messed up, especially if you used eTrailer's wiring diagrams. They are WRONG. Mixing up the 4 and 7 way color codes can cause all sorts of unhappy surprises. Read this: vintagetrailertalk.freeforums.net/thread/11345/when-tow-lights-screwyYour trailer sounds like it is wired per 4 way code (brown running light wiring). You can't connect to a 7 way cord to the 4 way colors. If your using the 4 flat, then it should be OK. If it worked before, the wiring may be correct. This isn't a ground issue, tho I would inspect the grounds for a strong clean connection to the frame. Tell me a little more, so I can help.
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chriss
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Post by chriss on May 16, 2020 10:08:57 GMT -8
On a 7-way connection, ignore the wire colors and go by terminal position. If you are dealing with a modern tow vehicle factory towing package, it should work. If a previous owner wired it, then double check the tow vehicle wiring. I agree you either have a short in the trailer, the trailer plug is wired wrong, or the tow vehicle is messed up.
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jukebox
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Post by jukebox on May 16, 2020 11:40:10 GMT -8
Also at this junction box and plug you mention, do not be concerned with wire color as much as correct wire and terminal location. The current doesn't know color anyway it just turns red real fast when it is shorted.
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Post by vikx on May 16, 2020 21:13:30 GMT -8
A single self resetting circuit breaker protects things when testing with a battery. I use the resetting breaker to keep from replacing an inline fuse...
The circuit breakers are also marked "batt" and "aux", with the aux being downstream of the breaker...
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