tpcm5000
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Post by tpcm5000 on Apr 13, 2020 14:27:49 GMT -8
So my entryway does not look too bad, only about six inches of the sub floor was damaged, the rest solid. So rot removed, but not sure if I should keep removing good sub floor to get to the the long joist (runner) or if I can build one or two cross boards, attach them to the good plywood floor with screws, and then run them to the frame and lock down with the carriage bolts that are already in place. Seems like that would be structurally sound. So here is the entryway and the screw driver and chisel could be new cross board framing I create, screwed into good sub floor and the frame with carriage bolts.  IMG_2745 by Tom Myers, on Flickr The old carriage bolts could be used in combination with the new cross board framing when screwed into the good sub floor plywood.  IMG_2744 by Tom Myers, on Flickr Or like I see in Vik's Vintage Trailer Repair manual do I keep cutting good sub floor till I get to the runners and then mount the new sub floor on the runner, and then carriage bolt the other end on the frame? Thanks! |
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Apr 13, 2020 15:06:02 GMT -8
How much more will need removed to reach the runner/framing?
If you can add framing that is connected to existing framing, you should be fine. If you're mostly depending on the carriage bolts to the new and old floor, I'd cut to the existing framing.
I wouldn't use carriage bolts anywhere flooring will cover. Use this...
They're flat.
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ekimnamniets
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Post by ekimnamniets on Apr 13, 2020 16:21:47 GMT -8
Those are most commonly known as "elevator bolts" used for attaching grain elevator buckets to the rubber belting. Probably cheaper if purchased that way. Every little bit helps.
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tpcm5000
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Post by tpcm5000 on Apr 13, 2020 16:29:50 GMT -8
Thank you nccamper. If I am reading similar posts correctly, my underbelly is sheet metal, there is a line of staples running the length, so I assume stapled into a runner, about 9 more inches in. The steel frame runner is about 3 more inches in from that. I can pull the good sub floor to get to the first runner, just not sure structurally if I am better off leaving the good sub floor as it is and trying to build a couple new cross boards that are screwed into the solid sub floor and attached to the frame, like you said with t bolts, floor repair bolts, or similar.
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Apr 13, 2020 17:45:08 GMT -8
I would probably add framing if it can be secured to recreate the same strength as the existing runner/frame. I've welded additional metal framing/outrigging to add support. Without seeing it, it's hard to be more specific. But it seems like you have a good plan.
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Post by vikx on Apr 13, 2020 22:14:20 GMT -8
I added 2 bys to support the new piece of flooring. Be SURE the runners are in good shape because often with a metal belly, they are rotted. I did cut the floor back to the next joist, then added side boards as backers for the new floor piece. They were angle screwed at corners, sometimes with angle brackets. When necessary, I drilled thru the metal frame and lagged the ends. I've done many; it's hard to remember each one.
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tpcm5000
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Post by tpcm5000 on Apr 14, 2020 5:59:18 GMT -8
Good info, thanks Vik, thanks ekimnamniets, thanks nccamper.
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ladywendolyn
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Post by ladywendolyn on Apr 17, 2020 13:33:27 GMT -8
Photo of my entry floor repair done under Vikx instruction. The front board you see is the new frame board underneath which I also repaired.  |
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roadtripper
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Post by roadtripper on Apr 17, 2020 19:36:25 GMT -8
I had a similar problem. If I remember right I first just took out the bad and added a couple joists. However when I recently got around to redoing the flooring I took it a little further to original sound framing and replaced all the old bolts I could with new elevator bolts. Anyway, what ever you do make sure to make all joints as flat as you can because if you put down new floor like vct , bumps are bad news.
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tpcm5000
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Post by tpcm5000 on Apr 18, 2020 6:34:39 GMT -8
Thanks ladywendolyn, thanks roadtripper. I think I will hold off a bit more on the repair and until I pull the front curbside side panel, then I will be able to inspect how extensive the damage is, and where I can attach new frame and flooring to make as secure as possible. Will re post pics.
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57 Trotwood
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Post by 57 Trotwood on Apr 20, 2020 7:14:10 GMT -8
Thanks ladywendolyn, thanks roadtripper. I think I will hold off a bit more on the repair and until I pull the front curbside side panel, then I will be able to inspect how extensive the damage is, and where I can attach new frame and flooring to make as secure as possible. Will re post pics. Why does it look like in the photo that your pocket screw holes are very far back from the actual joint/ How long are the screws you are using? Maybe because I can't gauge a good prospective. |
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WhitneyK
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Post by WhitneyK on Apr 20, 2020 9:45:58 GMT -8
Thanks ladywendolyn, thanks roadtripper. I think I will hold off a bit more on the repair and until I pull the front curbside side panel, then I will be able to inspect how extensive the damage is, and where I can attach new frame and flooring to make as secure as possible. Will re post pics. Why does it look like in the photo that your pocket screw holes are very far back from the actual joint/ How long are the screws you are using? Maybe because I can't gauge a good prospective. My guess would be that she is using the pocket holes with 2x material and we are used to using / seeing it with 1x's. Just my thoughts, didn't say they were good ones... |
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