oakback
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Post by oakback on Jun 8, 2018 7:32:56 GMT -8
We bought this camper last summer for $500, knowing that it would need a lot of work. There was plenty of evidence of water damage, and lots of botched repairs by previous owners. The person we bought it from brought it to Florida from Indiana, and said he put new bearings and tires on it to make the trip. It trailered home just fine, which was reassuring. This is, to our best guess, a mid-60s Phoenix Rally Sport. After we purchased and drove several hours home, I did some research and discovered that the information on the title did NOT match this trailer. Wrong brand, wrong length. But that's irrelevant, it'll be titled and registered as a "homemade" trailer. Here's how it sat when we got it home. The roof has rubber sheet on it, in an attempt to stop leaks. The rubber sheet was attached with lots of wood screws through a 1x2 board, directly into the exterior.  We started disassembling and finding water damage and rot everywhere. The good news is that all the windows are in great shape!     Under the rubber sheet on the roof I found where someone had previously added tar paper, and lots of tar.  Then school started for our kids, so between extra-curricular activities, not much got done. This spring I started pecking away at it, and removing more exterior. I found several good sections, and the floor felt solid everywhere, so the plan at that time was to replace the bad parts piece-by-piece, get new skins, and then paint/flooring/new cushions.    My dad has been in the woodworking industry for ~35 years (cabinets, millwork, mouldings, all kinds of custom stuff), so I asked him to come by and give general advice for construction. So after some discussion and putting a lot of faith in his experience, we decided to switch plans entirely. So we took a bunch of highly technical measurements:  and he is drawing it all up in CAD,  and my wife and I proceeded to demolish the whole thing. I found much more rot than I thought was there, but the areas that weren't rotted at all were just so dang flimsy. I don't know if all campers are like this, but I couldn't believe how cheaply this was put together.  The current plan is to finish the CAD drawings, and have a CNC (at dad's shop) cut out all the pieces for the walls from plywood. Dad wanted 2 layers of 1/2" plywood, then I reminded him that this still must be towed, it would weight a lot. So the walls will be a sandwich of 2 layers of plywood with XPS foam in the middle, and supporting studs (of 1/2" ply) where needed (like original construction, around windows/doors and for cabinets and such). Currently we've settled on 1/2" maple ply with 1/2" XPS in the middle. I know it will still be heavy, but I'm ok with that in exchange for having this thing bombproof. Also dad is offering his expertise, CAD skills, his shops's CNC, and his drastically reduced cost for materials, so I'm grateful and happy to follow his plan. While dad's working on his part, my next step will be removing the old floor completely, painting the trailer frame, replacing brakes and shocks, and installing new subfloor and vinyl floor.
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Post by vikx on Jun 8, 2018 20:57:34 GMT -8
Only the original photo is showing. Please give us more!
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oakback
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Post by oakback on Jun 11, 2018 18:07:46 GMT -8
Sorry about that, they should be there now. Today we got the floor off. I'm not sure why the framing has that off-center support, maybe to fit a specific-sized tank underneath (none were on here when we got it)?  I'd like to get the step welded on, maybe sturdier wheel wells, and I'm not sure if I should have an extra beam added to mirror the off-center one, that's a pretty big unsupported section. I'm no engineer, so I'm not sure if it's necessary. I'm planning to wire wheel the frame to get the surface rust off, none of it looks very bad. Then paint with whatever I should use (I haven't researched yet, suggestions welcome). I'll also replace the shocks and brakes. Are these parts typically universal for trailers? Like, length of shock and diameter of brake assembly. Or should I anticipate having a hard time finding replacements?
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Post by vikx on Jun 11, 2018 21:51:44 GMT -8
Well, it's a frame up for sure! LOL
Some parts can be hard to find. Leaf springs are a little different lengths these days and some brakes aren't made anymore. Do your homework. It's easier now than after the build...
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oakback
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Post by oakback on Jun 15, 2018 20:52:44 GMT -8
Prepped area for paint  I learned that axles are supposed to be bent sometimes  Trying to find a replacement shock (made another thread about that)  The brakes look to be in better shape than a truck I used to drive everyday. I'll apply power to test before cleaning them up and reinstalling.   I've begun to wire wheel the frame and prime it. I might get that done this weekend, but our humidity is super high pretty much every day, which slows things down quite a bit. Heavy rain mists into the carport too, so I take the windows of opportunities where I can get them. So far I'm just wire-wheeling and priming small areas at a time. I'm also trying to remove the axle and springs, but the bolts are stubborn. I broke my cheap-o ratchet today, I'll probably grind the leaf spring mounting bolts off. I planned on new hardware anyway.
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Post by vikx on Jun 16, 2018 19:48:25 GMT -8
If the magnet wires are good, the brakes will probably work. The ones I've had that didn't had fried wiring. Oh, and the Aljo had those big round magnets around the spindle, but some blasted PO had removed the big plate for the magnet to grab. Sigh.
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pdalber
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Post by pdalber on Jun 17, 2018 5:36:05 GMT -8
When I painted my frame, I went with POR-15 and was VERY happy with the results. Just make sure you use the "Top Coat" product anywhere the frame will be exposed to the sun (the standard product dulls when exposed to UV). I was able to achieve a finish that rivaled powder coat by finishing off with "Top Coat" from a spray can. www.por15.com/
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oakback
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Post by oakback on Jun 17, 2018 12:48:19 GMT -8
I went with "rust converting primer" and Rust-Oleum "gloss protective enamel". Everything is getting the wire wheel before primer.
The tongue and rear bumper will also be painted over with whatever we end up painting on the body of the camper.
I know por15 is great, but I didn't think it was necessary enough to warrant the cost. All the rust is just on the surface, no major pitting or rot.
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oakback
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Post by oakback on Jun 17, 2018 12:50:14 GMT -8
Today I got the leaf springs apart and started painting the axle. I had to cut off one of the u-bolts.
This is a 3,500 lb. axle, and I could swear that I see 2.5" on my measuring tape, but all the parts I'm finding arenfor 2 3/8". Working with old stuff is annoying sometimes.
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oakback
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Post by oakback on Jul 3, 2018 6:27:43 GMT -8
 I applied 12v from a battery charger, and the magnets, uh, magnetized. I'm not sure how strong they're supposed to be, but they work. All the brake parts look fine, the shoes look like they've never been used, so we cleaned it all up with wire brush and wire wheels and reassembled. The backing plates got the heavier wire wheel treatment, primed, and painted. Wheel bearings looked fine, no pitting or flat spots or anything, just really weird liquidy goopy grease stuff. Cleaned everything off, repacked the bearings with proper grease, installed with new grease seals in the drums, and new cotter pins. The dust caps are all beat up, I'll get new ones when when paint the wheels (color unknown yet, will match the exterior). I found longer u-bolts, so those went on along with new nuts and plates. The new shackle hangers are almost an inch shorter, but that's what was at the store, and seems to be the standard when shopping for 3,500-lb-rated hardware. I'm not concerned about it. The new shocks worked great ( link). They're intended for a Chrysler Cordoba, I just had to remove the bushing and use the old bushing (which was in surprisingly good shape). Wire-wheeling every square inch and priming has taken what feels like forever. Time slows down when you're hunched over. Also the 100% humidity and random thunderstorms that happen in a Florida summer really mess with productivity. Several times after priming the day before, we still had to clean off the flash-rust (through the primer) before painting. Luckily painting went fast, that Rustoleum goes on nice and thick. I also cut off the bent propane rack and ground it smooth, you can't even tell it was there. I bought a new jack, but the hole is too small. I also bought new chains and hardware, but don't have a great way to mount them. That said, the trailer is at a shop right now to get: chain loops welded on, jack hole widened, real fenders welded on (rather than lining the floor/walls with tin or whatever)( link), and an extra support added on. On the curbside (US) in the previous pic, you can see where there seems to be a support missing. It also happens to be right where the entrance step is, so I want some extra support there.  
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oakback
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Post by oakback on Jul 3, 2018 12:48:32 GMT -8
New shocks, one with the bushing removed:  What it looks like with the original shock bushing in place:  Also, it's stupid to spray paint wearing flip-flops: (gross foot pic removed)
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Post by vikx on Jul 4, 2018 20:27:51 GMT -8
Yay Oakback!!! More feet....
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Hamlet
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Post by Hamlet on Jul 5, 2018 9:53:12 GMT -8
As long as you’re still in the early phases, let me throw this out...
The reason they were so “flimsy” was that they needed to be lightweight. Most of these were originally towed not by big trucks with 450 hp engines, but by passenger sedans or station wagons with about a third that much. Radiators often contained only water rather than antifreeze, disc brakes were another 20 years off, and the national speed limit was most often 55 mph. The rot isn’t as much a result of the flimsiness as it is the fact that it’s just hard to seal any trailer’s roof.
With plywood walls and the other changes you plan, you will be substantially increasing the trailer’s weight, which you already know. You didn’t mention your tow vehicle, but make sure it has a towing capacity at least double the weight of the trailer, contents, and passengers.
Cant wait to see more pics of the rebuild... enjoy the journey!
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oakback
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Post by oakback on Jul 5, 2018 10:32:30 GMT -8
Yup, it's a Land Cruiser with 4.7 liter V8. The manual states a tow capacity of 6,500 lbs., we should be considerably under that fully-loaded. On the Land Cruiser forums, the primary complaint regarding towing is a lack of decent extendable mirrors. Otherwise they're very robust vehicles and tow with ease.
I'm more concerned with titling fees. I already have a tag/registration for a "homemade" trailer that I was going to use. But if it weighs over 2,000 lbs I have to title it (in Florida), which will cost quite a bit more up front and in long-term renewal fees.
edit, tow vehicle specs:
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating 6,860 lbs. GVWR
Curb Weight 5,115 lbs. curb weight
Payload 1,745 lbs. payload
Max Trailer Weight 6,500 lbs. towing capacity
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oakback
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Post by oakback on Jul 11, 2018 6:32:40 GMT -8
We disassembled the window rock guard, and decided we're going to do a large argyle pattern (1 diamond on each of the 3 panels). We painted a bottom layer of Rustoleum Seaside gloss (light blue), then did a diamond with Rustoleum Lagoon gloss. It's really difficult to tape a straight line on a wavy surface. I'm convinced it'll look not-straight no matter how it's done. We'd like to do a diagonal white pinstripe to finish off the pattern, but I don't know if I could tape 2 parallel lines that close without goofing it up royally, or losing my mind trying. Any tips? Also, we've decided that Lagoon will be our exterior color, in the middle with white above and below. Seaside is just too bright, it looked almost neon in direct sunlight. Side note, we were really surprised at Walmart's in-store selection of spray pain colors. Waaay more than Lowes or Home Depot. 
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